misterNNL

You are driving me crazy with how easy you make this look! I have two anti-grav vehicles under way and am stuck on both so I'll watching.

I'm glad to be the first to respond to this new effort and to assure everyone that I'm quite sure that this will be spot-on period correct and super accurate.

The rounded corners between the side panels ends roof could be made from paper or plastic straw sections. They would have about the right curve to them plus plenty of length.

That model T would be a quick build with some Evergreen plank sides and roof.

You're on the best forums Terry. There's certainly enough inspiration here to keep us all motivated during the coming cold months of winter and Covid isolation.

I was afraid of that. Since the roof and distinctive front end "sheet metal" are not warped I will be scratch building replacement panels from styrene. for the badly warped sections on the sides. Those side sheets are molded from .060" and I have that thickness in my stash of "stuff".Thanks Mark.

Great project, well planned and executed. Don't you love it when a plan comes together?

Pretty sure that is a '41 Chevy.

I have built a number of resin models from various makers and always use the same stuff I use on styrene. For the basic heavier work I use Deluxe Perfect Plastic Putty. I found this product about a year ago and absolutely love it. It smooths on with a dampened digit and sands very nicely. I buy it on line. I have used the same finishing putty literally for decades. I bought a one pound tube of Martin Senour # 6389 light grey lacquer glazing putty back in the 1970's and am still using the same tube. I mostly apply it with either a stiff piece of thin cardboard stock like a business card or a small steel spatula. Both products adhere to the resin very well and do what I feel needs done.

Digging through my stash of glue bombs and fixer uppers I came across two '59 International Metro delivery van trucks. One was a friction motor powered one with some nasty body side panel warpage. The other is more of a true promo with a plastic chassis. That one has some drivers side lower body panel sections missing and the rear door is missing. The friction unit has it's original rear door so I can use that for a pattern for the other one. My question is for anyone that has done successful warpage repair. with this type of plastic material. I believe they may be Cycolac material. Can I use my heat gun to slowly correct that then fasten a newly made base plate to hold it in place or is it likely to return to the warped shape it is in now? I have cut the glued in factory chassis away from one so I can use that as a pattern for new chassis work for both.

Looking good so far. I always liked the nearly flush mounted glass instead of a prototypical chrome frame. I'll be watching as well.

Our boys had a version that IIRC was called a "swing bike". the bar between the seat and the handle bars swiveled left or right so you could pull the handle bars to either side a little bit while keeping the wheel straight. It was the only one in town thus very cool indeed.

Yummy...those look really fresh ?

Interior color will sort of depend on how much interest you want it to get. I suggest a buffed flat black for a dark less noticeable interior or consider a couple shades of leather tones for more interest.. I built this kit the first year it was released(kit # 244-200,circa 1968) that I also painted red and it still brown interior. Yikes...that was 52 years ago! Man I must be getting almost middle aged.

Beautiful and well organized work bench. Although it's also way too clean and unclutteed looking in my humble opinion ?

Those bare sheet metal photos are perfect for your project. Very unusual pictures to take for any reason.

My "irk" moment was yesterday. All my own fault..and I own it cause it will happen again I'm sure. After spending an hour searching for, modifying and detail painting the perfect part I add the super glue ,grab it with my tweezers and "ping....it falls straight down into my 2' tall waste paper basket under my work bench! Arg!!! I did eventually did retrieve it after carefully dumping everything out onto a table and carefully sorting through all that "stuff". There was a time when I would have issued forth various naughty words, but I knew that was not going to solve my basic problem with having too many thumbs so I just moving along and did what was necessary to find a place the part where it needed to be in the first place.

One of the skirt trims I did was similar the blue background example was done using the very thin chrome pieces available in the Revell Willys coupe with a small round trim piece in front of it. That one was on a '37 IH D300 cab over pulling a scratch built 21' aerodynamic vintage travel trailer.

Great concept. I'll be watching.

Thanks for posting this unusual model. I have visited and taken a lot of photographs in west central Indiana along Route 36 in an old wrecking yard where there are a number of steam era tractors stored. There are mostly complete but have gathered a natural patina over their decades of outdoor storage. They are massive and interesting machines with valves ,gears and lots of other unique features seldom seen in todays world. One of these would make an interesting diorama subject if even a partial glue bomb could be found.

Definitely something wrong when a model company will waste dollars producing blah-blah-blah like this when there are model builders out there with real wants that are going un-headed. What a waste of plastic!

OK then...just hoping. Stay safe!

Incredibly realistic Thanks for sharing your skills with us.

I have built some vehicles from the 1930s and 40s that included fender skirts like in the illustrations you posted.I personally feel that if you add the chrome trim you see a lot of those examples it adds a lot to them and makes them look less heavy overall .Great idea .thanks for showing those examples .I will be interesting to see how this project turns out when it's finished.

Any other views available?