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Straightliner59

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Everything posted by Straightliner59

  1. Straightliner59
    I recall a discussion with Don Fahrni and Tom Hardy, years ago, about the Cammer, and best way to model it. We concluded that the only way to build an accurate replica, is through kitbashing. I don't remember all the specifics, but, the conclusion was that the best cam covers were from Monogram's T'rantula.
  2. Straightliner59
    That's cool! Kurtis Craft? I'm looking forward to checking them out, and seeing what I can do with them, to dress them up.
  3. Straightliner59
    The listing on Ebay said the yellow one is Ideal. I won't know for sure, until it gets here. They should be fun to check out!
  4. Straightliner59
    That perfectly captures the look of an '80s Super Gas car!
  5. Straightliner59
    Just bought these in separate deals on Ebay. They're really toys, but, I am sure i can have some fun with them!
  6. Straightliner59
    I'm considering doing a Badman with the engine and Lakewood bellhousing from Monogram's '66 Malibu (I have a red one) and a standard trans. It's in the early planning stages, but I have designed a possible set of decals for it. I don't want to stray too far from the Badman, itself. And, I am going to try to keep it fairly straightforward and simple...uh, yeah.
  7. Straightliner59
    It's been a spell since my last update. I still don't have much to show, but, it ain't for lack of trying. These taillights are giving me fits! First off, MPC molded them with the texture on the outside, when it should be on the inner side of the lens. Secondly, while I "get" why they molded the entire unit in red, it's a real pain, trying to attach a section of clear, for the backup lamp, then re-scribe the texture on the inside of the lenses all while attempting to keep a 1/8" X .030" (approx.) butt joint in one piece. Therein lies the rub...the right taillight has had to be reassembled five or six times. Each time it comes apart, it needs to cemented again, then polished...all over, again. All the while, this process makes that butt joint ever thinner! Anyhoo--the right taillight is closer to finished, although nowhere near perfect. It still looks better than the straight MPC item. There's a parting line in the 1:1 that needed to be scribed into the outer side of the lens. I used a fine pen to darken it. I used textured foil to simulate the inner reflective surfaces. I still have one taillight to scribe, and to create the reflector pans. Here are a couple of updated photos, along with a couple of the prototype. Thanks for looking! Comments, criticism, advice always welcome!
  8. Straightliner59
    This is freaking cool! Beautiful fuel coupe!
  9. Straightliner59
    Thanks, Snake! I still want to see that Monza. No chickening out, man! :-)
  10. Straightliner59
    I've finished most of one taillight! Still need to make the reflectors pans and bulbs, and install the reflective inner surface. I may try to find something a bit softer, to make the decorative trim/bezel around the taillight, so I can make sharper bends. The MPC taillights have texture on the outside, which shouldn't be there, and had to be sanded off and polished. Obviously, they made the taillight/backup light lenses one piece, so, I fixed that, as well, adding a small section of clear lens, where I removed the red backup light section. Here are a few photos of the new taillight assembly, and a couple of comparison shots of the MPC promo, the real car, and my model, just for fun!
  11. Straightliner59
    Not really anything special about the model, but, I think it's a fun/cool photo.
  12. Straightliner59
    I ended up using a drafting pen. It doesn't look too bad. I will be headed to the hobby shop on Thursday to find some brush-on flat coat and a new sheet of Bare Metal.
  13. Straightliner59
    Thank you, Tom! It was a fun, quick little project. Those are rare, for me. I tend to get carried away!
  14. Straightliner59
    BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH (Hahaha! suddenly, I'm Alex Lifeson!), Snake, as soon as the first coat of paint hit the body, I was kicking myself for not doing it! The project kind of blew up on me, after that. So...chalk that one up to experience I don't want to risk damaging any/everything, up front, so, I will see how realistic-looking I can get my shading! On to the taillights, next, and, then to see if I have any viable Bare Metal foil left (if not, I'll "have" to make a trip to the hobby shop!). I'm wondering if the "blacked-out" trim package may have looked better, but, the chrome will be fine. Thanks, man! Glad you like 'em.
  15. Straightliner59
    Thanks, all, for the comments! The tooling aluminum is an excellent medium for applications in which malleability is necessary. It's soft, like aluminum foil, but of heavier gauge. I used it to form the splash aprons on the '34 I completed, last year. It was a natural, for the skin, on this model. Today, I am playing with an open-mold to cast a half of one of these rear tires. I used the sidewall insert from a Revell/Monogram dragster/FC slick and rounded the shoulder, and sanded off the lettering. By casting it in two halves, I can insert plastic sheet between the halves to adjust the width of the tires, if necessary. If I have success, I'll post results, etc., on the appropriate board. Thanks again for looking!
  16. Straightliner59
    Finally had a chance to finish the second headlight. I am deciding what to work on, next. I may get the taillights done. I am very happy with the way these look!
  17. Straightliner59
    I built this 20 years, or so, back. It was built using a vac-formed drop tank that I found in a closeout pile at a local shop. I covered it with tooling aluminum. Tires and wheels are from the parts box. Rear tires were made by contact cementing two inserts from Revell's dragster/pro stock/FC kits together, then covering the seam with electrical tape. Wheel discs were punched from tooling aluminum sheet, as well. Radius rods, etc. are from the parts box. Rivets were made using the time-tested "scriber" method. I carved wood bucks to heat-form the scoops, and used an aircraft prop cone for the tail. The model was an exercise in trying new techniques, and design, and, clearly was never intended to be a detailed "replica" of a salt flats/dry lakes racer. Comments/criticisms welcome, as always! Mods, feel free to move it to wherever you think it needs to go!
  18. Straightliner59
    You oughtta' know me by now, Mike! Hahaha
  19. Straightliner59
    Thanks, Ken! Yeah...I've started on the other one. I might have it done in another week!grin
  20. Straightliner59
    Yes, Mike. This one is a promo. I picked up one of the later kits a little over a year ago on Ebay for a fairly reasonable price. Thank you for your kind words!
  21. Straightliner59
    I messed this up, but, it looks better than the factory item on the other side. The bezels are very fragile, and difficult to clean up for installation of the reflector pans and lenses. I broke this one in two places, in spite of the care I took, working on it. I really should have planned ahead--well, I tried, but the project blew up, as I progressed! I wish I'd opened up the "grille", before paint --I won't be risking that, now. I already have a couple of spots to fix. Also, was I to do it over, I'd have carved out the backs of the headlight "buckets", before I painted, too. Anyhoo...Here's a look at one set of headlights, installed.
  22. Straightliner59
    That makes me smile! Awesome!
  23. Straightliner59
    Hey, thanks, Art! I appreciate your kind words, very much!
  24. Straightliner59
    I usually edge all of my "glass" and clear Parts with black to add depth and hide the thickness of the lens. You may, however be on to something with the silver. It would carry the reflection bucket out to the edge of the lens. What you have done so far is nothing short of amazing. On a side note. My method of making clear headlights to replace the chrome plated ones is to use filler/putty on the back side of the chrome headlights and shape it into a reflection bucket, then make a mold and cast it in clear resin. Paint the back of the "bucket" chrome with a Molotow pen then drill a tiny hole and fill it with Amber or silver paint to represent bulbs. These are from my current project, SVO Mustang. It came with chrome turn signals and clear headlamps. Ken, those look great! I've always pretty much ignored the lights (Of course, building mostly fuel coupes, roadsters and dragsters, I haven't had to deal with a lot of them!), but, breaking parts down to their components works so well for everything else, I am not sure why I never really thought about it for lights, before. It's the only way to go! Thanks for your kind words, regarding the Monza!
  25. Straightliner59
    Those are super cool!
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