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Everything posted by Straightliner59
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Spent some time fixing a couple of minor things--I moved the pedals forward a few inches (about 4"). I also drilled a couple of holes in the firewall for the throttle linkage and for the wiring. Moving the pedals forward led to extending the driver's side floor pad. The seat's painted, and the mounts attached. I added bracing to the rear of the cage, along with tabs for the harness. I started the lap belts, and have the wine bottle foil cut and painted, for the rest. It's coming along! Thanks for looking!
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I hope you're taking another break. Profile shows last visit in January.
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Thank you, Brian! I appreciate it. Yeah, that's one of the things I like about race cars, is that bare bones quality.
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Yes, I think a model RR would be an insane pursuit for me to begin! I still think I might do a piece of wall art, some day, though. I have an idea, for that. Narrow gauge steam loco on a cliff face with a wooden trestle. Something like that, maybe. The test driver (I call him!?) is something I have just started using. I've generally eyeballed stuff, and have avoided any glaring issues. Recently (which, at this stage of my life, I'd consider within the last five years!), I noticed him lying on the bench and decided to use him to align stuff. If I can build an articulated one, I think it could be even more useful. As always, thank you for your kind words, David! I appreciate the suggestion, D.W.! It's the best setup for anything in which the seat is close to the firewall. As far as the patience thing--it's just what I love to do! I don't place any deadlines on my stuff. I don't build for contests, although I enjoy competition. My models are simply my visions of automotive art, inspired by 1:1 cars I've seen. It might be an overall appearance, or just some detail I think is cool! I'm just having a ball, with it! Thanks for your kind words, sir!
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I used some Hobby Black, rubbed with aluminum powder, to finish the throttle pedal. The linkage arm will get attached to something on the firewall, so it looks like it's going to where it needs to be. I don't see any point to building the linkage parts that would be behind the dash, although I know how I'd configure them. I need to drill the firewall, where the linkage to the injector's "brain" will come through. I also had to narrow up the clutch/brake pedal assembly. That was relatively easy. Thanks for looking!
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Minor inconvenience or major issue?
Straightliner59 replied to johnyrotten's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
You, sir, are a gentleman and a scholar! Thanks for those, Greg. -
I found something I think will work, nicely for the rod. I think mine's a little too far back to mount it to the firewall. My test pilot's foot wouldn't reach it, there.? I built a very similar one, to that for my Model A coupe project.
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These make for cool-looking drag cars. I think they just re-released the MPC one.
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Thanks, David! I've spent a few days working out the throttle pedal. NHRA's rules require a positive return device, so that the throttle can be "lifted", in the event of a return spring break, etc. After several false starts using other materials, I came back around to brass. It's since been dipped in Hobby Black. I have a couple of little things to add, yet. Anyhoo...this thing has taken way longer than it should have! As you can see, the return loop fits my test driver's foot. By using a figure, I can align him with given objects, to be sure that my model could actually be sat in, and driven, if it was 1:1. Due to his inflexibility, he can't always be positioned where he would actually be, and I have to rely on sight-lines. A couple of days ago, I was digging through some parts boxes, and found more pieces for another Monogram Sprint Car driver. I think that, at some point I will see if I can articulate one, to make it a bit more able to nestle into place. It's important to me that the things I build be at least practicable, if not entirely practical, or common. Part of that is making sure that everything the driver needs is actually within reach. Thanks for looking!
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Minor inconvenience or major issue?
Straightliner59 replied to johnyrotten's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I would agree, regarding the Fireball Modelworks parts. All Joseph's stuff is top-notch! If I was going to repair yours, I would use a liquid cement. It will create a joint as strong as the plastic, and, when you press the ends together, you should get a little "ooze", which will become its own filler. -
I always wanted to build an N-scale railroad. So glad I never started! This hobby costs me enough. Plus, I would probably end up detailing the insides of buildings--you know, dishes in an open cabinet, a dresser with an open drawer with folded clothes. It would just be stupid! ? I have a few aircraft kits, now. Monogram's 1/48 Warthog, because I love A-10s, Revell's 1/32 Hawker Typhoon, and about 10, or so 1/144 scale kits. That's my favorite scale, for planes. There's been more than one occasion in which something I learned building other genres of models has come in handy, when building my cars! The more you know...
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Exactly! If it works in 1:1, it'll work, in scale, so long as you're patient enough to get there. I build my chassis (mostly dragsters) on a 1/2"X4"x12" piece of balsa. I mark the longitudinal center line, wheelbase and overall length, front and rear track widths and motor plate. That usually will gets me started. Once the brass is cut and shaped, it's pinned into place and soldered. That's how I built the chassis for this car.
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Who doesn't love a mock-up? Let's see yours!
Straightliner59 replied to Belairconvertable's topic in WIP: Model Cars
This will be a good "follow"! Looking good, so far, Pierre! -
I'm an idiot! I just realized those are the tops of the boxes, not the ends. DUH!
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I finished up the dash panel (I think!). I made the toggle switches from the pointed ends of straight pins. The rings are discs punched from aluminum duct tape. i also slipped a tiny length of black wire insulation over the base end. The plastic covers were made with drops of UV activated clear resin, then painted with Pactra acrylic red. I turned down a length (?) of 1/16" aluminum tubing, and some plastic rod, to make the starter button. Thanks for looking!
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1/16th 1957 Corvette Super Gas 80's
Straightliner59 replied to Ian McLaren's topic in WIP: Drag Racing Models
This looks so cool! I can never decide whether I like '70s Modified Production, or '80s Super Gas, better. It looks exactly like it should--not that I'd expect anything less from your bench, my friend!- 47 replies
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That's interesting. I've never seen the Fujimi EM Series models in those boxes.
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Thank you, very kindly, my friend! I consider that high praise. Here's what those pedal parts look like, installed. I slipped the interior door panels into place, so I could fit and install the panel gussets, and set the wheel into place. I got the dash drilled, so I guess the switches and starter button will be next. Thanks for looking!
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The chassis is a work of art! If I wasn't sure the body will be just as gorgeous, I'd say it would be a shame to cover it up! Excellent work, my friend!
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- scratch built
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I've been picking away at interior stuff...When I filed the relief in the dash panel, for the steering column, it vibrated a couple of the gauges off, so, I replaced those. I still need to drill the panel for the kill switch, main power/battery (for the starter), and the starter button. Then, I'll need to fabricate those. Because I didn't open slots in the floor for the brake and clutch pedals, they'll get mounted, as shown, in channel that I milled. I'll mount the brackets to a piece of strip stock (for a larger surface for glue), and cement that to the floor. I still need to work out the throttle pedal, and cut my gussets for the firewall/floor conjunction to length and install them. The pedals and arms are brass. The pedals will be soldered to the arms. I'll probably just soak them a bit, in Hobby Black to color them. I also cut the steering column and installed a collar on the end that passes through the firewall to the steering box. The collar will accept the end of the column with the wheel. The collar won't be visible, beneath/behind the dash, and will make installation of the wheel much simpler. I applied a wash of India ink to the wheel, then found a domed aluminum disk, to fit the center, for contrast. I'm on my first of four night off (WOOHOO!), so maybe I can get a dent made in this interior work! As always, your comments, critiques and questions are welcomed. Thanks for looking!
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Thank you, sir! My projects have a strange way of doing this.? I'm happy with what I have done with it, so far. And, I hope, (and think) I have kept it recognizable as to its roots. It's a fun journey! I do recall saying something to that effect!? I think we have all experienced the underthinking of our aspirations! Minimalist dreams turn into...well...this! Thank you for your kind words, Pierre! They are always appreciated.