Jon Haigwood

I will talk to Jason at our next club meeting and try and convince him to make up some.

I ended up going this route as I had a 32 in the parts stash. It took some finessing as the 32 trunk lid is wider, shorter and has some compound curvature. But with several rounds of "heat and bend" I got it in place. Still needs some finish work on the edges and I see a dip below the louvers that I need to fill but all and all it will works. Thanks for the suggestion

Corded or Cordless, I need one that runs at a slower speed. My Dremel's lowest speed is to fast for some of my needs. I have an older Dremel that runs on a 7.2 battery pack and it is also to fast.

Sent a email order inquiry on Monday and left a message on their FB page , no response yet. If they are slow that's OK but if they are out of business I need to start looking elsewhere for some carbs. Thanks for any helpful responses

Trying out some wired distributers (a bit spendy)

I did a bit of research of the Createx line and discover that AutoBorne sealers are also primers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JwBF7XFjpAM&ab_channel=CreatexColorsCo

The flake comes in 4 sizes. The Rattle Bomb aerosol cans come in the smallest size. Watching the videos may help you decide if it is for you. I was mainly interested in the Kandy https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2226/4923/files/TDS01152013001-2_Applying_Roth_Metal_Flake.pdf?5819599158123070388

There are some YouTube Videos with him and he seems a little way out there, that Acorn didn't fall to far from the tree.

Yes this is Dennis Roth, Ed's son. I met him and his mother at a car show years ago. I actually have a T Shirt sign by them

Has anybody had any experience with the Roth Metal Flake and Candy paints ? https://rothmetalflake.com/

Not exactly what you were looking for but may be helpful. I wanted the trunk to open like a Rumble seat and hide the hinge. Used square brass tube and used it for part of the inner trunk support. Used metal wire and inserted the ends into the trunk floor in small round tubes. I took a lot of trial and error to get it to open and close right. The trunk also opens with the bottom going inside of the body.

Thanks not sure about the dimension's

Some great info here thanks guys. Thinking about using some 1/4 round to make the louvers and attach them to some thin sheet styrene. Then cut out the louver section and attach it to the body. This is how I make tuck-n-roll upholstery. Thanks for the info and tips. Archer stuff is available thru Teds

Apparently they are no longer in business

Is that place still in business ? I just tried to order and this came up, "Unfortunately, there is no payment method available." "

Planning a 33 Ford 3W build and need a way to put louvers on the trunk. The body is a resin body. Any and all helpful info appreciated

I know the 2012 had issues with clumping. I did experience this problem my ownself so I went back to the 2011. They recommend that it be stirred and not shaken when mixing. A lot of youtube videos on this and other application of Createx paint.

Thanks

I think some of the Club Members did very well at the sale

Local Hobby shop closing up shop had a Garage Sale today. Picked up a resin Chopped 33 Ford, Revell 3 Window Kit. R&M 29 Ford kit, Blueprinter parts Pack with 4 engines and some chrome grilles, a Revell parts pack with 4 427 Ford engines and a Revell Parts Pak Caddy 354,

I picked this up today at a garage sale a local hobby shop had as he was closing his shop. I picked up a bunch of stuff at great prices including this resin Chopped 33 Ford 3W, Nothing on the box to indicate where it was from, Any clues ?

Using aluminum oxide with a small opening like that I can see it blowing thru the plastic. Maybe with baking powder at a distance it might work OK but then again $70 compared to $22 , will be going with the HF

Just used baking baking soda at around 50 or less psi held 8" away. On the new body it mainly just took away the shine. On the painted body it took some of the paint off, down to the white primer, might be useful for a patina effect.

I have been experimenting with a media blaster I picked up at Harbor Freight. I wanted something that would assist in paint removal on paint fails. My first attempt was using baking soda on a relatively thinner paint, Candy2o over a rattle can silver flake. What little I did seemed to work but needs more testing. I just blasted a new unpainted Revell 3W and it didn't seem to harm the body but left a satin looking finish and I thought this may be a better surface for paint to grip than the smooth out of the box surface with out all the light pre-paint sanding. Anybody ever give this a try ?

Your thoughts on using 4030 1/1 with Candy2o then clearing over it with 4053 .