StevenGuthmiller

I haven't seen a lot from Round 2 that has really interested me in recent years, but this one will be a definite must have when it is released. It is also a very good sign of possible things to come! A huge thumbs up to Round 2 for taking the risk to re-issue some of these terrific old long lost annuals!! Steve

Of course I would go stock. If you decide to go that way, the Trumpeter '60 Bonneville kit has both a set of 8 lug wheels, as well as a set of stock '60 hubcaps. My personal opinion, but with an "old" car, I would always go with "old school" wheels if not stock. Chrome reverse would be good. Otherwise you can never go wrong with Cragars or Torque Thrusts. Steve

My methods will change according to the model, but generally, I'll proceed as follows. I'll start by taping the glass in place with a few strips of thin Tamiya tape to get it into the exact position that I want. Then I will "tack" the glass with a few drops of UV light setting glue in a few key places to set the glass in place. Finally, I carefully remove the tape and then seal the entire perimeter of the glass to the body with some 2 part epoxy applied with a tooth pick. This s a relatively fool proof method to ensure that glue is not smeared onto the exposed glass, and once the epoxy has cured, the glass is very secure. Steve

Much better! Steve

My only complaint is the photos as well. How about some shots of the entire model? I agree with Rich. It looks a little like a kid taking a few pictures under his covers after he's been told to turn the lights out and go to bed for the final time. Steve

Don't give up hope. Give me some time to do some digging. Somewhere I have an old Modelhaus '58 Edsel. If the hood ornament is included, you're welcome to it. Steve

Health food tonight. Philly cheese steaks with Jarlsberg cheese and au jus, Irish Cheddar gratin and a mixed green salad. Steve

Sling Blade! Love that movie! "Some folks call it a sling blade. I call it a Kaiser blade, mm hm." Steve

Access to parts is the issue, which was my point. Unless you have the skills to completely scratch build a stock interior and chassis, the stock body is only part of the puzzle. Steve

Okay. So I guess stock is still out of the question then, even with a stock body. Just wondering. Steve

Can you build it stock? Steve

Yeah, I've been meaning to get one of those. I just need to "pull the trigger". Steve

I used 2 on the bottom, but one on the hinge and one on the firewall. I suppose that might provide better adhesion than one magnet on a metal sheet? Steve

I use Alclad in various finishes for all of my metal surfaces. Alclad carries a multitude of aluminum finishes, including "polished aluminum" which can be quite convincing if properly applied. Steve

I've never had a sheet of foil wrinkle while in my possession. I keep mine in a file cabinet in my shop and have never had one display this phenomenon over time. I have however received sheets that have been wrinkled, and even bought one at a hobby shop that appeared unblemished through the tiny window, but I found it to be wrinkled when I removed it from the sleeve. As stated by some above, it's an unfortunate circumstance, and I agree that in most instances the wrinkled areas are un-usable because they inevitably crack, but the remainder of the sheet is perfectly serviceable. I don't think that circumstances like this are truly avoidable. It's just the nature of the beast. But much like a bad can of spray paint, which I have encountered much more often than a bad sheet of foil, it's just something that you have to deal with on occasion. Steve

I really like my "Creos PS-290". Works really nicely for large areas like bodies because it includes a wide pattern "fan spray" nozzle. Plus the "trigger" is a really nice feature. I believe that I spent a little over $100.00 for the set. Steve

Just out of curiosity, I have to ask. Does a stock body for the Foose kit do any good when there is little else in the Revell kit that's stock? Steve

I painted over the magnets on my '64 with no adverse affects. The magnets appear to be strong enough to function very well regardless. Although on my project, they only had a single coat of paint over them. My local Hobby Lobby carries K&S products. I'll definitely check to see what they carry for metal strips the next time I'm in. I'll also check on the smaller magnets that you used. Mine are 1/8th inch, by 1/32nd. Steve

Thanks for the recognition Bob, and as is usually the case, the collaboration of ideas produces advancements. I like your idea of using the metal strips on the under side of the hood! That could possibly save me the hassle of building the "slide in" bracket and channel system that I used on my '64 Pontiac on my next project. Great idea! Steve

Tonight it was "Fat Peter Clemenza's" red sauce with spaghetti and a mixed green salad with red onion, blue cheese and bacon with Asian sesame dressing. "Come over here kid, learn something. You never know, you might have to cook for 20 guys someday. You see, you start with a little bit of oil. Then you fry some garlic. Then you throw in some tomatoes, some tomato paste, you fry it, you make sure it doesn't stick. You get it to a boil. You shove in all your sausage and your meatballs. Eh?.....add a little bit of wine....and a little bit of sugar....and that's my trick". No sausage tonight, but who needs it when you have homemade meatballs. Steve

I'm guessing that you saw my finished '64 Grand Prix build that I referenced early in this thread. I really liked how the color came out! The color came from Scale Finishes. Steve

I'll take the Bonneville! Steve

I have to agree. In the model kit world, you basically have two options. Do I want to hold out some kind of hope that someone is going to re-pop a particular kit that I want sometime within the next 30 years, (hopefully before I'm dead), or do I want to be realistic and realize that I'm going to most likely have to bite the bullet and shell out a little cash if I really want it. Steve

The Biscayne caps look a lot like the Camaro caps I posted above from Fireball Modelworks. I will probably never build one of these 4 door Impala kits, but if I did, I would be using the Fireball caps. Steve

Ordering directly from BMF is no guarantee that you will not encounter issues. They don't reserve anything special for their own distribution. It's all the same stuff. The only possible advantage is that it "might" be fresher than something that's been sitting on a hobby shop's shelves for some time, and it's most likely advantageous if it hasn't been exposed to too many environmental variations or too much handling during shipping, but there is no assurance that it will not encounter adverse conditions coming right from BMF either. Concurrently, there is a very low probability that issues such as low adhesion or a cracked or "bumpy" sheet is any less likely coming directly from the company. All that you can do is find a vendor that you trust and go with it. I order all of my BMF from Amazon and have seen no discernible difference in quality than ordering direct. It's a shot in the dark under any circumstance. At least ordering through Amazon carries the bonus of knowing that I'll have my foil in hand in a few days. Steve