StevenGuthmiller

Believe me, she’s no angel! ? Steve

Our beloved cat Lucy passed back in October of 2020. There was an instant void that needed to be filled, so the newest member of our family, Marcy entered the picture. She is currently a little over 3 months old. These are a few shots taken over the past couple of months. In a little more relaxed state. Steve

I agree with some of the others. Get the Super Clean instead of Purple Power. I have used both and Super Clean is far superior for stripping chrome and paint. Steve

Taking the suggestions above for the dash pad, I began thinning the Charger pad to more closely resemble the '68 Coronet. Jees! I guess I'd better trim my nails!! Steve

Agreed! Super Clean will take Testors enamel right down to squeaky clean, bare plastic in a matter of a few minutes if it's not too thick. Overnight will definitely do the trick no matter how thick. Steve

I'll vouch for this event! I participated last year, and I felt that it was run with the utmost integrity! I fully intend to participate again in April. I saw the "ballot stuffing" phenomenon first hand at another online show that I attended last year. It's a pretty lousy optic, and I won't be participating in that one again. But you can be assured that the boys at the Desert Scale Classic are on the up and up! Good luck with the upcoming event Danno! Steve

Never bought an extended warranty in my life. Never have, never will, and never regretted it. I buy Hondas! I agree with what others have said. If you don't recognize a phone number, don't answer the phone. If it's an important call, they will leave a message. It's a dead give away that it's a junk call if they won't leave a message. If they do leave a message, and it sounds suspicious, (which these scam calls always do) do some research online and you will almost always discover that you're dealing with a scam. Basically, my rule is NEVER, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE, make any deals of any kind over the phone! And never give out any personal information unless you are 100% positive that who you're talking to is legit. (Like if you made the call) In general, I pretty much avoid the telephone. The less I use it, the happier I am. Steve

X 2. Steve

I understand, but the original dash pad had basically no detail at all. I figured that I would rather sacrifice some accuracy for a little bit better detail.

Thanks for that insight. I can probably address that issue fairly easily with some sanding. Steve

Trying to get back into the shop to start back on this project. Today I spent some time playing with the dashboard. I've decided that I'm going to try to use the interior floor from the Revell '68 Charger so some modifications are in order. First, the rear package shelf needed to be cut to the correct contour for the rear window of the Coronet. Next, I decided that I would use the original dash from Coronet just because of fitment issues with the original door panels, but the upper dash pad portion was severely lacking in detail, so I pulled out the Dremel and the files and sandpaper and began the surgery required to mate the Revell Charger dash pad to the MPC Coronet dash. It took a little thought, but it appears that it worked out in the end. Steve

Yeah, a '60 Impala is a piece of cake compared to the Olds....... or one of these. Steve

Hmm, I've got probably 40 cans of Duplicolor primer, paint and clear in my shop at the moment. Never had a single one seep in probably 20 years of using Duplicolor. Steve

Sorry guys. We don't mean to disrespect the memories of your younger days, but some of us older guys remember what the cars of the 70s were "actually" like! Steve

Not sure why this kit gets such a bad rap. Looks beautiful to me!! Steve

Most older kits were assembled using plastic tube cement. In this case, glue is not the problem for disassembly. Plastic cement works by melting the plastic and basically fusing, or welding it together. In my experience, little will work for disassembling parts that have been heavily cemented together other than brute strength and good luck. Steve

I agree. Molotow is absolutely no substitute for "real" chrome. Molotow's durability is highly questionable and I've heard all too many stories of it losing it's chrome like luster over time. Not to mention that even light handling will damage the finish. I don't even use it for small parts anymore, preferring Alclad's equal finish and better durability. Steve

It's been many years, but I have done similar types of diorama pieces, including a complete street section with curbs and sidewalks using quick setting, light weight, drywall compound. You can pick up an 18 pound bag of 45 or 90 minute mud for around $8.00 at any home improvement store. Steve

Well, just so you know, while the basic look of the Windsor is very close to the 300, the front end treatment is completely different, as well as the badging. If your friend is not terribly picky, I suppose it will be close enough. Windsor. 300. Steve

I was curious of that fact as well. I initially questioned whether this was even a factory '55 color, but then realized that the OP had never stated whether the car, and subsequently the model, was a 300 or another model. But you are correct Bill. The 1955 C-300 was supposedly only available in "Black", "Platinum", (white) and "Tango Red". But, apparently there were a very few limited examples of '55 Chrysler 300s painted in special order colors. According to the "Chrysler 300 Club International" information that I found, the break down was as follows for '55. 1,177 cars were produced in "Platinum", 289 in "Black" and 247 in "Tango Red". But, according to the club's information, 2 were produced in "Jade Green Poly" (code 13), 2 in "Desert Sand" (code 21), One in "Embassy Gray Poly", (code 17) and One in "Canyon Tan", (code 20) There were 4 "mystery" cars of the 1,724 cars produced. One is listed as an unspecified "special order" Code 99, which apparently was tan in color. The other 3 were not listed, or lacked a code, so I suppose that there is a very thin possibility that one of them could have been painted in the "Heron Blue" specified by the OP. Steve

I'm thoroughly impressed! I've always viewed this kit as a bit of a basket case and always found an excuse to abandon it any time I started one. Maybe there is hope after all! Very nicely done Chris! Steve

I have had issues in some cases, but the worst instance, in my opinion, is not being able to remove the glass. I have this problem with an AMT 1962 Mercury Monterey. Luckily, I have a Dremel tool and am not afraid to basically grind anything apart. That would include grinding the glass out of the Mercury and then replacing the glass. You can almost always find solutions to these problems if you give it some thought. Steve

There's a million of 'em! It just depends on what you like. A few of my "modern" kit picks. AMT 1960 Ford Starliner. AMT 1967 Chevrolet Impala Lindberg/AMT 1953 Ford Victoria. Revell/Monogram 1959/'60 Chevy Impala. Revell/Monogram 1965/'66 Chevrolet Impala. Revell/ Monogram 1955/'57 Chevrolet Belair convertible Revell/Monogram 1959 Cadillac Eldorado Biarritz/Seville. Absolutely anything from Moebius! Steve

This. Steve

Thanks so much guys! Thanks fellas! Every technique that I offer was learned from another fellow modeler. I pass along freely everything I've learned over all of these years to anybody that is interested. One of the most rewarding aspects of this hobby is being able to help others in any way that I can! Steve