Mark

It is. The Comet was originally conceived as an Edsel. Early workups on the Comet were closer to the Falcon, and got more distinct as they evolved. The squared-off roofline (and possibly the slightly longer wheelbase) weren't adopted until after the Edsel branding was removed. '60 and '61 Comets don't have any Mercury emblems, letters, or script on them.

If you just want headers with longer tubes (collectors further back under the car) you're probably better off starting with the headers in that kit, then just lengthening them. If you're working on a Revell '69 Camaro, you've probably got one of the big-block variations already...just start with those headers. Usually these things don't swap easily from one kit to another, even if they're supposed to on the 1:1 car. I fitted a set of AMT '67 Chevelle pro street headers (which incidentally are quite long before they enter into the collectors) onto an AMT Baldwin-Motion Camaro. They fit everywhere I didn't expect them to fit (didn't need to cut or reroute any of the individual tubes) but to make them fit would require flattening them out quite a bit. In fact, the headers already in that kit are flattened out where they get near the subframe. I wasn't ignoring the advice I gave above about sticking to the parts from the same kit...the reason I made the switch was because the kit headers are side exit (for use with side pipes), and I wanted typical under-the-car exit headers instead.

The question is moot now that Modelhaus parts aren't available except second-hand. The conversion could have been done, but nobody was paying attention to the '67 as a conversion. Those who did make conversion kits concentrated on the '68 because of the Super Stock version. I never compared the parts but the '67 chassis/engine being a copy of the '66 rather than the actual parts makes sense to me. Why AMT didn't make the '67 more different from the '66 (like including a V8 engine, as opposed to the slant 6 that doesn't fit with the exterior trim) is beyond me...

The back window area on the Edsel station wagon doesn't look right: it should wrap around at the ends just as the Revell Ford wagon's does. Jimmy Flintstone offers a two-door Edsel wagon body that looked better to me, he might have a four-door also.

Pretty sure the car 361 was a polysphere-head engine, the one with the sawtooth valve covers. That's not what is in the truck kit.

#5 is AMT '71-'73 Mustang. It's supposed to represent the dog dish cap with the black stripe near the edge, with the trim ring that covers the rest of the wheel. But the cap is way undersize. The annual kits had five of them (probably to mold extras to allow for breakage when stockpiling parts for the promotional models). One is still in the reissued Warren Tope racing version. #7 is Revell '69 Mustang. #8 looks like MPC '69 Mustang (annual kit version).

No photos, it's pretty simple really. It might be more difficult (not impossible) if you haven't got an A-Team kit to copy from. I just went through my packages of strip stock and matched one up for width and thickness. I took the van out and looked at it, looks like I used .020" x .040" for the roof ribs, and .020" square for the drip rail. There are six roof ribs, they are equally spaced 3/8" apart, on center (the center of the rib would be 3/8" from the center of the next one). So you would first establish a line running lengthwise down the center of the roof. Measure 3/16" out from the center line on each side, then 3/8" and 3/4" further out on each side to establish where the other ribs go. Make sure these lines are parallel to each other and to the centerline. I drew another line perpendicular to these, 3/8" in from the rear edge of the roof (not including the rain gutter). That's where the ribs should end at the rear. I let them overlap a bit, then trimmed all of them after installation to make sure they were even. At the front, the outermost ribs end about 7/16" from where they would run into the end of the roof. I can't tell you about the inner ones, as I used the sunroof (moved forward from the cut line provided) and that interrupts the inner ribs. It's far enough forward that none of the ribs would be left forward of the sunroof where I put it. For the rain gutter, if I remember right I used one continuous piece of the smaller stock, and first attached just one end to the existing drip rail. Make sure the part that is cemented down is on straight. After the cement dried, I pulled it taut, then put a drop of liquid cement at the end furthest from the already glued end, and let it flow back to the already-glued area. Once straight, I taped it down and let it dry. I then repeated this until I ran out of strip to attach, as 12" won't get you all the way around the roof. Let that dry, then cut the first strip clean at the end so you can butt the second one right up to it. Then keep going until you get all the way around. I can't remember where I started/finished, bit I definitely didn't join two pieces together at a corner. I think I started somewhere over the sliding door area on the passenger side and worked forward, so I'd have that sliding door mechanism to help straighten out the strip at the last join. Hope this helps...

Not tough at all...I used the A-Team van to match up some Evergreen strip styrene with the rib detail, and to figure out where they should go. Establish a center line on the Chevy van roof, and measure outward to spot the placement of the ribs. I also used some smaller strip stock to add a better defined rain gutter around the perimeter of the roof. My van was the earlier Dirty Donny custom, but all of these are the same basic kit.

The only issue with the ribbed roof was the AMT/Ertl A-Team GMC. The earlier ones (including those with separate window/no window side panels) all have the smooth roof. I put the ribs back on with Evergreen strip styrene, using an A-Team kit as a guide.

Perhaps they didn't want someone over a certain age. I'll be looking for a position early next year myself, and will probably use an agency that will assist me with social media that I don't presently use. The HR people at my present employer tell me that some employers deliberately use certain procedures for applying for a position, in order to eliminate most people over a certain age who tend not to use certain websites or are not the most savvy about them. Age discrimination has gone high-tech...

If Micro-Mark(up) is getting $400, you can probably find the same unit elsewhere for around half that. That's what I found with the vacuum forming machine (it's a dental lab unit) and the spray booth...

I've wanted a two-seater AMX, but back in the early Eighties they were a few hundred bucks more than I wanted to spend. I owned an AMC car at the time, and knew a couple of brothers who owned a dealership and knew all about them. They told me which parts were hard to find, and which were impossible even then. The affordable cars always needed the impossible items, and were generally beat to death. I once had first crack at an MG-TF in the mid-Nineties. It was complete and rust-free, and even had good body structural wood. It was a '55 model but had been disassembled in the early Sixties. My older brother bought it to flip, but I had first shot at it and passed. The earlier models were more desirable at the time, but the TF has a bigger engine and has since narrowed the popularity gap somewhat. At the time, I figured where am I going to drive it without worrying about getting nailed between two cars in a collision...

Of any of those kits, the last one I would hold my breath waiting for would be the Dart. That's the one that got hacked and whacked into the "funny car" body. Hopefully they did get some halfway decent car stuff...

I've tried it, it's a good fit. I've already got a Craftsman '65, so I was looking at it the same way Snake is (as in, sliding the pro street chassis under an AWB body with the quarter panels returned to near-stock). I believe the '66 underbody fits the '63 wagon also. I've got a Boss Nova body with the wheel openings and hole in the roof fixed, now I need to get off my duff and scribe the panel lines back in...

That kit is not 1/24 or 1/25 scale...cars in that series vary in the 1/40-1/45 range...

Mint in box will always be good; partials, projects, and builtups will decline markedly. Watch eBay over the next six months or so, as owners of the latter will attempt to unload!

The chassis in these kits is from the original '65/'66 annual kits, though those all had single exhaust. The duals were added for the Mach I concept. All of this stuff has been shifted around between the annual kits and these custom fastbacks over the years. I'm sure that if enough of the fastback still exists, Round 2 will get it back out at some point.

Hold the phone...I'm seeing detail on the center hub of the Corvair wheel, that isn't on the '40 Ford wheel...

That's not the Corvair wheel. Those were smaller, to fit the compact car tires AMT used in the Corvair kits. As an aside, the Corvair wheels MAY have been used in the 1969 Crew Wagon reissue of the '63 Nova station wagon. I've got one of those, will check it later if I remember to do so. Not knowing exactly what these are from, I'd guess one of the AMT mid-Sixties Corvette kits had them as a custom option. Often the convertible and fastback had different optional parts in the same year, so there are several possibilities there.

Monogram had it nailed with the Tom Daniel kits. With the kit molded in the "main" color, they made perfect birthday or Christmas presents for the visiting aunt/uncle/grandparents. Pick up a kit, grab one of those Testors paint sets with the seven or eight bottles of paint, the cheap paint brush, and a tube of glue, and you're all set. The kid can paint the minor details with a brush, stick the kit together in one rainy/snowy afternoon, it looks pretty much like the one on the box, and it goes on the shelf next to the others. Everybody is happy...

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned that Sixties Canadian Pontiacs were built on Chevrolet chassis, which in '61 were way different from Pontiac's. You'll need to pick up a '61 or '62 Chevrolet kit for the chassis.

The '40 sedan is not a Pyro kit, or a knockoff of one. It's a knockoff of the AMT '40 sedan kit, with the body separated into three pieces (hood/cowl/roof/trunk, and two side panels). It's noticeably larger than the other Palmer '40 Ford (convertible), also larger than the Pyro '40 Fords (coupe and convertible).

Tim (somewhat) makes it sound as though lots of editing and corrections were necessary...not so. I never compared the copies of each chapter in "rough" form to the finished book, but I don't remember being surprised by anything in the latter. What I saw, and made extremely minor suggestions on, was pretty much what you see in the finished work. The photos (which I didn't really see in the same context as their final presentation) and sidebars make it even more of a must-have.

The designer ignored the fact that Packards were being built eight years before, only those were refried Studebakers...

Heller kits are pretty good, unfortunately they have one nasty habit with the body parts as others have mentioned. The body will be molded in color, but they usually get one body panel (often the hood) onto the same tree as the chassis parts, which will be molded in black. If they'd just shoot everything in one color, they'd take care of that.