Snake45

Looking good! Drive on!

Did you try the hot water and fingernail yet?

Outstanding! Can't find a single thing out of place. You nailed the era. Well done and model on!

The '09 Challenger looks like it would be easiest to kick through the goalposts by the end of the year. Take the challenge (no pun intended) and GITTER DONE!

I'm envious! The '66 Corvair was one of my very first model cars. All I have left of it is the instruction sheet. I have several of the '69 reissues, of course, but I'd love to own a real, original '66 box and the parts that were unique to (or last seen in) that year--wheels, turbo parts, etc.

It looks like something Monogram issued in the '70s, and then someone built it as a rat rod. Ick!

And you don't need expensive, hard-to-find "special" polishes, either. I've been polishing for about 30 years now, with Wright's Silver Cream, a silver polish available in the housecleaning stuff aisle of Walmart, supermarkets, drug stores, etc. It's water-soluble so has NO petro-chemicals that can affect paint or plastic, just VERY fine abrasive. I polish clear windows with it, too. Great stuff!

What he said! Model on!

Don't think I've ever seen one of these built. You did good with it!

That's still a nice kit, even after all these years (I think it was first released in the late '60s). That looks like a '70s boxing. Worst thing about Typhoons is the paint options are so few. They all had the same camo, so your choices are more or less limited to squadron codes, nose colors, and recognition/D-Day stripes or not. There aren't a shelf-full of reference books on them. I have an Osprey book on Tempest and Typhoon Aces that's pretty good. One good thing about them is the camo edging is so "tight" that you can hand-brush it if you don't have an airbrush that will do it. In fact, it looks better hard-edged (brushed) than too soft-edged. Have fun with it!

Here's my Welly '70 Challenger T/A, which I bought about a year ago from Diecastmodelswholesale.com and finally got around to Snake-Fuing about a month ago. (It also comes in red.) This one is really impressive, and is probably my favorite cheap diecast of all time (so far). It's true 1/25, or at least it's smaller than the Monogram 1/24 and is virtually identical in size to the Lindberg/Palmer '74. Paint's beautiful (B5 Blue?), very shiny and no obvious flaws. The model required only the normal amount of Snake-Fu: detailing the grille, white-painting the headlight stems, sanding the tire treads, and so forth. The underhood is impressive, with a wired and plumbed 340--one of the nicest diecast engines I've ever seen (too bad the hood doesn't open enough to get a good pic of it). I did have to paint the rear panel flat black, and I put acrylic pearl white under the backup light. The wheels are magnificent. I painted the center sections Testor Steel and the rest of the wheels (except of course the chrome trim rings) got some Krylon Clear Matte, decanted and brushed on. I drilled out the chromed exhaust tips. I can't say enough good things about this model. It deserves to sit on the shelf with my better 1/25 models, and not just be relegated to my "Diecast Ghetto" as some are. I REALLY like it!

So that's seven and me is eight. Cool! I just went back through the Bring Out Your Dead Thread and spotted a few more, all posted just in October, that should be good candidates for completion: *Gumball, you've got a BUNCH of likely prospects. Pick any one and gitter done! "GeeBee, I'm not 100% sure what that black car is, but it looks easily finishable. *Atmobil, your Land Rover and '29 Ford roadster both look like finishable projects. *Foxer, that 2003 Infinity looks quite do-able. *Ford F-100, that '67 LeMans deserves to be finished! *ChrisBCritter, I'd LOVE to see that '61 Falcon done, it is so very way cool! Fairlane1320, just pick ANYTHING--everything you posted is hella cool. Just pick one and drag it across the finish line! I'll commit to getting either the '69 Camaro or the '69 Nova or the '66 Skylark finished. With luck, maybe two of them. Okay, we've got eight weeks more or less till the end of the year. Let's say "curbside" completions are okay. Your model does not have to have a fully detailed engine and chassis, but it should be up on its wheels and fit to set on a display shelf. But it SHOULD have all bodywork done and be painted and have a good finish--primer or "satin" is okay if that's going to be the model's FINAL finish. Glass and major trim (hood, grille, bumpers, lights, etc.) should be installed. The idea is to have the thing LOOK finished, even if it's maybe not fully detailed underneath. WE CAN DO THIS! WHO'S WITH ME???!

Now imagine it with a Spanish accent, and half of it in actual Spanish (when she's on the phone). Welcome to my life--I'm basically Jay on Modern Family.

Ah, we DO have some interest! Excellent!

Thanks Mr. Mopar and Casey. Looks like it wouldn't work for what I had in mind.

I was thinking it was you but couldn't remember for certain. I'm glad you're happy with it. I would never have been able to get it built. Oh, and it wasn't a '64 Cutlass, it was a '65 4-4-2. I later bought a resin '64 Cutlass off eBay and it is VERY nice--obviously from a different maker.

148 views and only 3 of us are interested in doing this? Okay, never mind...I guess....

Can't tell for 100% certain, but that one SEEMS to be an original issue 1963. Another fun fact: The bucket seats were molded to the roadster interior the first couple years, and only became separate parts in, IIRC, 1965. (I KNOW they're separate in '66 and '67). I believe the seats were always integral in the coupes, and I think they've been integral in all the '63 roadster reissues.

Not my style at all, but the paint and finish are gorgeous!

Never saw that before. Is the body anywhere near 1/25? That is, could that body be used on a Manx frame? There were a LOT of clone, ripoff, and me-too dune buggy makers for a while there back in the day. If the body's anywhere near the right size, it could make an interesting dune buggy variation.

Easy-Off will also remove all paint. This has worked remarkably well for me twice recently. Let the body sit in HOT tap water (your tap shouldn't get hot enough to damage the plastic, which takes 180* or more), then pull it out and scrape the decals off with a fingernail or thumbnail under more hot running tapwater--as hot as you can stand it. This worked even on some decals that were resisting rubbing alcohol and attempts to carefully shave them off with an Xacto knife.

Very nice! You really captured the look of the era. Well done and model on!

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! How do you not already have your own show on NPR or Public TV? You could write it all as parody, but their listeners/viewers would take it as enlightened gospel! Fabulous stuff!

Thanks again, but it's not foil, just good old Testor Chrome Silver, applied with a brush--pure Old School. And it's actually dry!

Indeed. Probably the only person on Earth who could make a GEICO commercial almost interesting.