Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Snake45

Members
  • Posts

    22,539
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Snake45

  1. Now you are just making me want to build one of these!
  2. It looks better in your pics than in the pics I found of it online. Pics I saw, it didn't look like the doors fit too well, and since I already have a couple of somebody else's '63 Vette diecasts, I'd decided to give it a pass. But after seeing your pics, if I run across one in 3D, I'll give it a look.
  3. Many years ago, when I was much younger and much stupider, I (as a two-striper) was arguing with a USAF noncom with five or six stripes and MANY years and much seniority on me. At one point he said, "I do believe you would shoot a tiger in the butt with a BB gun." I took the hint, thereby becoming just a little less stupid that day. Just remembered that story, for some reason.
  4. Interesting. You can really see the difference in shape of the side spear between the real builtup and the (obviously retouched) box art.
  5. Rare models I built back in the day...and still have: AMT '66 Buick Skylark AMT '66 Mustang Fastback MPC '66 GTO MPC '66 Bonneville convertible MPC '68 Camaro MPC '68 GTO MPC '68 Charger MPC '68 Firebird MPC Mako Shark, first issue JoHan '68 Javelin MPC '68 Charger AMT '68 Toronado AMT '69 Camaro SS/RS AMT '69 Corvette coupe AMT '69 El Camino And no, I'm not interested in trading or selling any of them.
  6. I wouldn't bother with those either, but I absolutely cannot stand parting lines or edge flash anywhere on the outside of the body.
  7. But that violates my desire to build two models out of the mess. Same with the limo idea.
  8. Interesting. One idea I had was to put it on a 4x4 frame and make a Bronco-like vehicle out of it.
  9. I never use wax any more, and that's one of the reasons.
  10. Snake45

    69 GTO

    Looks fine. All you really need to do is paint the Rally II wheels.
  11. When airbrushing, I always do all the sharp edges and door lines first--a couple coats, and then I open up and spray the whole body. Maybe same thing on 2nd coat. By third coat, I can just spray overall. It's very rare I polish through on a sharp edge any more.
  12. This thread reminds me, I need to get back to work on this one: Yes, it's real. And it's spectacular.
  13. There's a nasty-looking red spider on top of your engine.
  14. Dream Truck: That couldn't hurt. As they say about the frozen tundra and the US State Department, almost anything you could do to it would improve it. Hirohata: I'm not a fan of '49 Mercs of any kind, but the Hirohata is one of the least awful of the breed. Probably about as good as it gets.
  15. I couldn't agree with you more. "Wet look" paint just doesn't look real. Or "scale." Or something. Polishing dials it back to a more realistic finish.
  16. I don't get it either. Maybe I was born or got interested in cars too late, but many of the '50s customs that "everyone" seems to rave about strike me as just backbirth eyesores. El Matador, the Aztec, and the Dream Truck just to name three.
  17. Absolutely right. In fact, I've recently come to recognize that I spend so much time and thought and energy on my stupid hobbies so I won't have to think or worry about the BIG problems in the world.
  18. Yes, it's possible, and I've done it, but you can't count on it IME. There will always be many factors you can't control with "technique," such as the formulation of the paint itself. It's good to know how to polish/fix a paint job. And then if everything just happens to work out perfectly, that's great and you've had a good day. If not, it's bidness as usual and you drive on with your SOP. Truth to tell, I kinda like polishing paint, even if I've got an acceptably smooth job to start with.
  19. Lose a vital tool or essential paint? Don't waste more than 15 minutes looking for it. Then go buy another one. Within 24 hours, the thing you were looking for will be magically transported back from the Alternative Dimension in which it was hiding, and will appear right before your eyes. The prouder you are of some new creation, the fewer comments it will get in Under Glass. But post a couple pics of some POS you built years ago and watch the comments and compliments roll in! If you post a question, someone will answer with the solution that you already clearly stated was not possible or available or acceptable to you for whatever reason.
  20. The only polish I use is Wright's Silver Cream, a silver polish available at Walmart and anywhere household cleaning stuff is sold. Been using it for 30+ years. Works great on paint or plastic, even clear plastic, and has NO chemical in it--it's water soluble and washes right out of door lines etc with running water and toothbrush. Here's another tip I've learned, and the worse the orange peel is, the more it applies: One minute of wet-sanding is worth five to ten minutes of polishing. In other words, knock your OP surface down to "flat" quickly with the fine sandpaper, and then it doesn't take long to polish it up to fine shine. I've never used polishing cloths or pads. Can't buy them locally, and I hate relying on the mail for basic supplies.
  21. After you research the snot out of something and can't find an answer, and go with your best guess, as soon as the model is finished you will find you did it wrong. If you scratchbuild something, or build a difficult and/or expensive resin kit, as soon as you finish it, a mainstream kit will be announced.
  22. First off, if you're using enamel, you have to let it dry at least a month. If you can still smell any paint, it's not dry/polishable yet. Second, forget a "buffing wheel" or any kind of mechanized polishing. Polishing model paint needs to be done with your own sensitive fingers. Third, stop by an auto supply store and pick up some 3M WetorDry sandpaper in #1000, #1200, #1500, and #2000 grits. More to come....
×
×
  • Create New...