peteski

Rustoleum (along with Testors and many,many other brands) are all part of the giant coatings and adhesives conglomerate called RPM. I doubt they want the Rustoleum division to go out of business. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RPM_International Some of their consumer brands: https://www.rpminc.com/leading-brands/consumer-brands/

Thanks guys! So far 3 members offered 3 different possibilities, I'll try to find some photos of those kits. What I like about those besides different depths) is that the center cap and the lug nuts are really well done.

I thought you originally mentioned that the paint had a flat finish. Liquid mask in theory should stick to that finish which has some glossiness to it. Anyways, why go the liquid mask route? All you need is a simple straight-line mask. Why not use some Tamiya tape (or any Washi tape from hardware store). It should conform to the shape of the cushion just fine. Just burnish it with a toothpick. You could probably just use the tapes edge (no cutting required). Or if that curve on the top of the seat is too sharp, just cut a thin strip of tape and place it right at the color demarcation line, then fill the rest of the masked-off area with wider strips of tape, and if there are still some voids left, just fill those with liquid mask. That way there will be no cutting. The other option is Parafilm-M but I don't think it will work all that well (it does not adhere to surfaces well, since it has no adhesive).

I currently drive 2019 Soul. Nice little vehicle. My previous car was 2006 Scion xB (the "Box"). I also drove the current generation Soul for couple of days (rental) and it had even more bells and whistles than my 2019. One thing I didn't care for was the engine shutting down when the car stopped (to save gas, um, reduce emmisions). There is a button to disable that "feature", but the setting doesn't persist when the ignition is turned off.

Excellent! They make a nice pair!

I've seen these on eBay. Can anybody identify those Centerline wheels (regular and nice deep dish)? The tires are mix-and-match unimportant - they look like they are not original to whatever kit they came from. Just the wheels.

That is extremely impressive Rick (both in size and complexity), but I'm not sure if it will be helpful to a newbie resin caster.

Thanks Rob!

In amazing turn of events, not only Fox News but all the other news outlets are reporting the same thing.

Who made the original diecast model? It is so finely made that it looks like a larger scale model (not a Hot Wheels or Matchbox size model).

I have cast many small parts in open 1-piece molds (using Alumilite first, then Smooth-On resins and RTV). I have not yet advanced to 2-part molds. Jumping straight into 2-part mold territory seems a bit daunting on a first try. Good luck! The grille and taillights could likely be cast in a simple mold (but will require some trimming afterwards). As for the bumper, I can also see a possibility of making it into a single part molds if a stub (which would have to be removed afterwards) is built up around the bumper mounts. Well, on a second look, because the bumper ends curve "up", single part mold will likely not work, unless it is sliced open for removing the cast part.

I seem to recall Rob de Bie posting information on this type of casting that seems to be popular in Europe. Unlike in U.S., where pressure casting is usually used for bubble-free results, in Europe some use vacuum casting technique. The large pour stub is used to allow the air bubbles to escape and as an resin reservoir for the resin which replaces the air inside the mold. Plus that design makes it easier for the hardened part to be removed from 1-piece molds. But I do agree that the masters were likely 3D printed.

Just for reference, there is another discussion about this taking place already:

I have no idea if it was distributed in the U.S. I got my IMAI kit on eBay back in 2007, as a partially built kit. The body was assembled and painted. I just took a closer look at the wheels and tires. In my kit all the tires are the same size. The sidewall marking is 920/10.00-15 which makes no sense (except the 15 part). The tread is poorly done (just simple grooves around the perimeter). Back in 2007 I was looking for an alternate Monkeymobille (better than MPC kit), so I picked the IMAI kit. I currently don't have the MPC kit handy, but the IMAI body proportions look a bit off, and the windshield frame seems really wrong. The kit looks like a typical Japanese toy (not a decent scale model). That is why it is still sitting in its box untouched. I would not recommend it (especially since we now have much better MPC kit re-released.

I just checked, and the wheels and tires of the IMAI kit aren't too good. While the tires are rubber (like other typical Japanese kits), their cross-section seems a bit square, and the wheels aren't see-through. They are solid discs.

I have one of those as you call "knockoff" Japanese kits of the Pontiac GTO (Monkeemobille). It is also IMAI kit, but with different boxart than the one on eBay, and has the same "screaming chicken" decals. It has a copyright 1995. Scale 1:24. But I wouldn't call this kit a knockoff of the MPC kit. It is not an exact clone.

The statement in questions was I do have arthritis, and moderate hearing loss (due to 48 years in the construction industry). No dementia yet....that I'm aware of. My mother has Alzheimer's and I'm her sole caregiver. Being her caregiver is quite stressful, and it is heartbreaking to see her in her condition.Yet, I clearly realize that the statement being discussed was an attempt at humor, not malicious. I really think that we (as a society) need to lighten up a bit and don't take everything so seriously. I already have enough larger problems to deal with. At least that's how I see it.

I see. Thanks Greg!

You did, but posted it in a section dedicated to discussions about the Model Car Magazine. The section this thread is in would have been a better choice. The moderators will probably move it here (and even merge into this thread). There is nothing wrong with reviving an old thread is you're adding to the old discussion.

Nice. That is a true scale hinge (as it is the same size as the molded in one. How exactly do you cut the brass tube (soldered to the brass strip) with a hobby knife without crushing it?

Eh, somebody probably just took the plastic engine cover off (because the BWM engine I showed earlier is likely just as complex under that pretty cover).

Airbrushing Alclad II Polished Brass paint over a glossy base coat will likely give you the result you desire. Similar technique to what you use for Alclad II Chrome finish.

Actually, if you pop the hood open on most modern cars with those uber-complicated engines, all you see is some fancy plastic engine covers. No wiring, maybe few simple hoses - mostly just a black plastic cover with a logo on it. Very simple to model.

Yes, that is a clever idea. A word of warning about those non-slip kitchen liners. They seem to leach plasticizer like the infamous vinyl model tires, so they can soften and mar polystyrene. Don't leave your model sitting on it for any extended period of time. Or replace it with some other non-slip sheet (like what Bill mentioned).

Dmiaxion, I also had one of those "What?!" moments when I read the subject line of your thread. You know, you can go back and edit the subject line to better reflect your question. "Gender" and "Fender" rare quite different things. You'll probably get better and on-topic replies to your question.