peteski

Steve, If you are talking about "Future" (or Pledge Floor Finish) it is *NOT* a floor polish. It has never been describes as "wax" or "polish". it is called "floor finish" because it is a water-based acrylic clear coating. Similar to other hobby water-based acrylic gloss clears. While I have not used it as a clear coat for a model car body, I have used it to improve the look if model's "glass" windows.

Shellac is alcohol-based,and can be thinner with full-strength alcohol. Denatured alcohol (Ethanol) should work well. Methanol also works well. Do a Google search for "shellac thinner". Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol will not work as well, and should be over 91% strength.

Here you go guys. From https://www.foodnetwork.com/how-to/packages/food-network-essentials/baking-powder-vs-baking-soda-whats-the-difference The Similarities Between Baking Soda and Baking Powder Baking soda and baking powder are both leaveners made from a chemical called sodium bicarbonate. When sodium bicarbonate is combined with an acid, it produces a gas (carbon dioxide, C02, the same gas we exhale when we’re breathing) that lifts cakes, cookies or other baked goodies while they're in the oven. As C02 is produced, the batter expands and rises and the heat in the oven causes the protein in the batter (often eggs) to become rigid, a scaffolding of sorts that holds the baked good up even after it cools. The Difference Between Baking Soda and Baking Powder Baking soda is pure sodium bicarbonate, with nothing else in that box. In order for it to produce the gas, it needs an acid added. Then it gets to work neutralizing the acid, and in the process, it produces C02. Think back to the baking soda volcano experiment in grade school: when your science teacher added acid, it bubbled up and overflowed. Buttermilk, yogurt, lemon juice or molasses are a few of the acids we use in baking to activate baking soda. For this reason, baking soda is used in recipes that require an acidic ingredient added. Baking powder is a combination of sodium bicarbonate and powdered acid (like cream of tartar). Because it already contains an acid, all it needs is moisture and heat added to activate it. It's typically used in recipes that don't call for an acidic ingredient added. Sodium Bicarbonate Is water soluble, will absorb moisture from ambient air, resulting in a liquid solution. I like to understand how the chemicals I use in my hobbies work. Both of the above chemicals are used in food production. There really isn't any need to use them for modeling tasks. Yes, baking soda has been used (and is still used by some on this forum) as CA glue accelerator. It will cause instant setting of the CA glue generating heat. If it is totally sealed within the glue it will not absorb moisture, but if some grains are not fully sealed (exposed to ambient air), they will eventually turn into liquid solution, and ooze out. There are CA accelerators specifically designed to safely set the CA glue. Why not use those? Baby Powder (talcum, corn starch, and perfume) can be used as a filler material, but corn starch can develop mold after long exposure to moisture. Better to use talcum powder without any additives. Microballons are better inert type of filler. Plastic filings also work well as a filler. Again,, understanding the properties of the materials used in our hobby will result in better and more durable models.

Very good Roger - I'm very happy to see good result using something I would not (and will not) consider using. I simply explained my reasoning for not wanting to even try using baking soda. Thinking in general seems to be in decline nowadays (in general, not you specifically). Get back to me in 10 years to let me know how that worked out. We can keep this going if you want.

I never encountered plastic mixing balls. I only have seen glass or metal ones. Plastic is rather ligth, so I can see how those are not very effective. I also like to add more than one ball into my paint jars.

I also saved bunch of those (and ones from other spray cans), but they are rather large to throw into a little square Testors bottle (if they would even fit through the neck), and even IMO too large for 1/2 or 1 oz. bottles. Smaller beads also get into the corners better to get the settled pigment stirred. Those UFOs however look very useful.

Fine, you just found a great flocking material. Nothing I'll ever use (for the reasons I specified above. It is not about not knowing, it is about using the knowledge about some substance and determining whether I should utilize it for a certain purpose. I think that is called "analytical thinking". This thread asked for recommendation, and I threw in my five cents. I have seen too many nasty failures of using water-soluble material for permanent tasks. Maybe your paint sealed the baking soda well enough so that the moisture will not get to it, but there is no reason for me to take that chance on model I spent lots of time building. Thanks, but no thanks.

I got burned by using steel balls (ball bearings) in paints (even ones which are not water-based). The balls rusted, tinting and ruining the paint. I have found glass beads in a craft store. Very inexpensive. I now use those instead. No more rust. I guess lead buck shoot would probably be good to use too.

Baking powder (and baking soda) are both water soluble, and will absorb moisture from ambient air (especially in humid climates). I would never use either one on any of my model (in any form) They will liquefy and ruin your model. I don't know why people come up with these silly ideas! Stick with the things that work like flocking, or embossing powders.

The answer is: depends on what scale the model is (since people on the forum build models from 1:6 to 1:160 scale), and how accurate you want the size to be. You didn't mention scale. Either way, you first find out the diameter of the wire you want to represent (not the actual metal conductor, but the outside diameter of the insulation) then divide it by your model's scale. For example if the insulation diameter of the 1:1 scale wire is 1/16" (or 0.0625") and your model is 1:25 scale then the scale diameter will be 0.0625" / 25 = 0.0025". That is quite thin - about the same diameter as human hair. I seem to recall that there is a thread on this website that has reference sizes for wires of various diameters in various scales.

BSI SUPER-GOLD+ (odorless) CA glue does not cause fogging. (yes, it is slightly more expensive than standard CA). Using BSI accelerator to quickly set any CA also prevents fogging (since the glue has no time to start evaporating). If the clear window is first dipped in Future (or whatever the current name is for that stuff) and will minimize plain CA fogging. I use both myself.

Exactly! I often witness the same thing - those impatient people in the end often end up behind me or literally just few seconds ahead of me. Is that really worth it? I think it is some sort of a mental issue. They are not right in their heads.

That is one impressive and unique model Alex!

If you have (or willing to learn) the required CAD skills, considering where this hobby is currently, 3D printing the model is an excellent choice. You just shift where you hobby time will be utilized. From physical scratchbuilding (the old way) to "virtual scratchbuilding" on the computer.

If you never seen "Spaceballs" then you won't get the joke. This is not the exact the same RV, but close.

This is some very impressive modeling. I hope you will add "I ❤️ URANUS" bumper sticker when you finish it.

Yes I despise tailgaters (especially if I have slow traffic in front of me). Or even if I'm going 5-10 MPH over the speed limit. Selfish people (wich is very common nowadays). I have seen a car with a bumper sticker like this, and it made me smile. I contemplated getting one myself, but not only it is too nice, it will not stop those nasty tailgaters. I have also seen more R-rated bumper stickers, but I would probably get in trouble posting them here.

Well Steve, I'm going to call you out on this one. I remember the exchange we have about this quite well. I posted a link in the "freeze plug" thread which you paid no attention to. Below is your replay about links in general (nothing specific about links to photos). Please read that post and few subsequent posts to see proof that you don't pay much attention to links in posts. Please click on this link: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/165242-freeze-plugs/page/2/#comment-2470957

From my past experience, and from what he told me, Steve does not click on any links included in posts. If it is not in the post, he won't read it.

Nail polish is a fairly "hot" lacquer which could craze clear parts. But I guess it if is applied sparingly to the edge of the clear part, that won't be much of an issue.

Oh well, it went way over my head. I need to lighten up a bit and be less serious. Maybe if you put a smiley in your post I would have caught on.

Usually automatic spell checkers are to blame, but not in this case: Both spellings are correct. It is a human error. The one that I find silly is people using "Testers" instead of "Testors".

I have seen this exact discussion on this exact forum in the past. The opinions and comments have not changed since then.

Greg, in your last post you basically repeated most of your initial post. I'll also repeat again: if you don't want to use any sort of adhesive foil (which needs to be trimmed on the model), the only other alternative is some sort of liquid chrome solution. If you apply the liquid chrome freehand, you can easily stray off the molding, messing up the paint job. Plus freehand you will not get nice even edge like you do when trimming foil with a knife. So, you will likely have to mask then airbrush the chrome liquid. Masking requires the same trimming process as does BMF application. Also, if you don't burnish the masking tape well, the chrome liquid paint will seep under the tape, again ruining your paint. Most clear coats also dull the look of the liquid chrome solutions. I have never clear coated BMF (I apply it as a last step) and have not had a problem with it either peeling off or getting dull. As for the knife slipping, you can stick thin strips of masking tape against the trim on the model's body you want to chrome, then apply BMF, and use the edge of tape as your knife guide. the guide tape strip can be applied either over or under the BMF. This method has been nicely explained on this forum in the past. I think the "miracle" super-easy chrome trim you are looking for doesn't exist.

Why? It takes very little pressure to hold and twirl the 1/8" drill bit shaft between my fingers. You don't want to put too much pressure on the bit, ans it is quite fragile. Actually hard calloused skin would make the hand-drilling more difficult. My fingertips are quite soft. I do use pin vise for the larger drill sizes, and the same applies - delicate handling is in order.