peteski

That carpenter pencil is still made in the USA? WOW!!

IMO, those "favorite this and that" threads are a bit silly. My favorite tool is whatever I'm using at the moment during model building session. It could be one of hundred of tools I own (because one can never have too many tools). So, they all are my favorite at one time or another. I also bet you dollars to donuts that if it came to that, you *COULD* live without those tweezers. I however would likely leave my hobby if there was no more CA glue. And it is not even a tool. As for tweezers, I have tweezers (with lots of CA glue in the background).

One always learns something new in these new-fangled online forums.

Not unless the car had half a dozen of steering wheels (check his feedbacks - those show which items he sold).

Yes, that's true about the bottom half, but I guess I'm willing to live with that. I'm willing to live with the center console. Seats (headrests) can be fixed. As for the side mirrors, I'm thinking of using Mirrors from one of the Tamiya Mercedes kit and resin casting copies. Or just scratch-build them. I really like that style Mercedes, and this is the only game in town. JC, that one you have looks nice, even with those strange tires.

So there are no issues with the general shape pf the body? That confirms what I observed. Sure it is not a Tamiya kit, but those shortcomings can be easily fixed. Like you mentioned, it is easy to add engine details (or just build it curbside), and wheels are also easy to improve. I bought a nice set of 3D printed "baroque" wheels from a seller in Ukraine, and I have some ideas on how to improve tires. There are plenty of options available. Yes, it is an older kit, but it really isn't bad. I've seen much worse. I have 3 of those kits, but I'm still glad it is getting released again (despite what some others here think about it).

Very well done Lin! We also now know how you did the metal spokes.

While I'm not a prolific big-rig builder, I'm always on a lookout for good tires. I bought this set and I'm not too impressed with them. The tread looks ok, but the pattern on the sidewall where it meets the tread looks weird to me, and it extends too far down the sidewall. Are there real tires out there with that type of pattern? The cross section is also a bit strange (as if they should go on very narrow rims). But I guess compared to all the really crappy tires that have been included with some kits, these aren't half bad. My other gripe is the lack of any info molded into the sidewalls. I understand that there are issues with licensing, but why not just put some generic info like the type and size of the tire. The blank sidewalls aren't very realistic. My all time favorite truck tires are the real-rubber Michelin X tires included in the Revell Can-Do wrecker (and likely other kits). Everything on those looks very realistic. The Moebius 1:25 Big Rig Wheel and Tire Set also includes very nice tires. Those tires have nice tread, sidewalls with lettering on them, and a good looking cross section.

Nice job guys! I have a Lone Star Rolls Royce I want to restore. I stripped the paint off its body, but then the project stalled (I have too many projects going on).

If you look at that seller's stats, they have been on ebay since 2020 and only have 9 feedbacks. https://www.ebay.com/fdbk/feedback_profile/asantiss?filter=feedback_page%3ARECEIVED_AS_SELLER All the items sold were 1:1 automotive items. Not sure what their goal is with those expensive models, and they might not be sure themselves. I see lots of crazy stuff like this on eBay. I used to ponder and scratch my head seeing similar listings, but at this point it is like "move along nothing to see here". EBay now allows auction listings to linger for a very long time, and I suspect that is what this seller will do. It will probably not sell. I watched a similar type auction (for 1:64 scale diecast '77 T-bird for $100, which seemed outrageous to me). I watched that item being relisted for over a year, and it didn't sell. Yes, I contacted that seller asking what made their kit worth $100 when in the meantime other identical models were selling for $20-30 in other listings. He never replied.

Never heard of that kit. Was it in a special box that described it as being plated? I suspect tit was some sort of special release (gimmick). If I had one, I woudl not build it or even open the box. Sounds like a collector's item. I just recently bought those "regular" kits on eBay for $24 a piece.

I found Jay's on eBay by looking for the seller's (not store) name jayswheelsandties1948 in eBay's advanced search. Here is his store: https://www.ebay.com/str/jaysfashions1948 As you can see, the store's name is different than the seller's name - IMO, not the optimal move on Jay's part.

Were those tires also resold by American SATCO? What was the size shown on their sidewall?

Is the Italeri (misshapen?) MB 500 SLC the same as ESCI kit? I have couple of those (unbuilt) and I don't see any major problems with their bodies.

Well then you can blame the Royal Mail. Maybe I'm gullible but I don't think that there are lots of USPS employees who maliciously damage mail. Most of the problems are likely occurring during machine processing of the mail.

Good question. Probably for the same (unknown to modelers) reasons all the other plastic model kit companies do not reissue kits, even if many modelers are pining for them.

Yeah, I can see that now. Maybe even at 11 o'clock position. We still don't know whether the other graphics (on the left) belong to the K-H logo, or are for another sponsor.

That photo is very small. Which part of the "stuff" behind the wheel opening is the logo you are looking for? Or the entire cluster of object is the logo? I blown it up and this is the best I can come up with. You can barely make out the words. Not sure what the other graphics are. The actual K-H logo might just be the lettering and the round object. The other objects might be another logo Maybe instead of searching for the logo look for other photos of the race cars from that time period for higher resolution of the logo? That foto is from 1966 Sebring competition. When searching for logo, this is the one that pops up most often:

Jerry, the question you are asking is one of those topics that comes up here fairly regularly. Here is the most recent thread (the answers will be same this time around). Check it out.

Good to hear that you got it to where you're happy with it.

Thanks for answering my questions Lin. The video is very well done, but I figured I should mention that it left me with couple of questions. I was just hoping that you had some trick for cleanly cutting the tubing as I also find that task a bit of a pain.

Yes, this is a clever way to replace the plastic spokes. It was unclear to me in the video how you held the hub halves together for installing first half of the spokes (4:31 in the video). Only after re-watching few times I noticed that you are using a screw in the center axle hole to keep the hub halves together. It would have been useful if you showed that procedure in the video (or even just mentioned it in the captions. You also did not make any mention of the blue paint marks which seem to be for aligning the rim and the hub. Still, this is a very helpful video. Thanks! I'm also curious how you cut the metal tubing so cleanly for the nipples?

How about just using the tint film (with its clear adhesive-backing film still in place) as the model's window "glass". No bubbles of fussing, but it is a but flimsy.

When applying tint film to 1:1 vehicle windows you use water and squeegee (to prevent air bubbles). Did you try that on the model's window, or were you applying he tint film dry?

I suspect that using paper does not give very accurate results as it absorbs some of the paints binder. Styrene would be a better surface to use. That is what I use. Of course painting the lid of the bottle, or the cap on the spray can also works well. That is how paint cans were sold back in the day - caps were actually painted with the paint in the can. But most companies have taken the cheaper way out to just mold the cap from approximately colored plastic. Not quite the same (especially for metallic colors).