peteski

Mr. Boyd, You are very skillfully pussyfooting around the subject of the inaccuracies. Yes, you admit there are some inaccuracies. Just like a hard-core politician, you go into all sorts of explanations and reasons for this, but you don't provide any substance. Let me post a copy of what I posted earlier. If you would only do that, then we would all clearly know just how much off, and in which areas, the model body is compared to the 1:1 car. I would think there is a very easy way to resolve this "chopped top" discussion once and for all. You could take some measurements of the model you have in hand, and compare them to the 1:1 car's dimensions. Even if you don't have the 1:1 measurements, I suspect that there are members on this forum that have access to the 1:1 car. No photos, no lens differences, no different photo angles. Just pure measurements. Of course you might not want to do that for obvious reasons. Of course, when the kit is out, someone will eventually do this, and the truth will be told (one way or another). It can't be any clearer or simpler than that.

No those were different series and manufacturer. Few years ago, on eBay, I scored a shrink-wrapped Monogram "Car in a Bottle" dragster in a Pepsi bottle. Still shrink-wrapped now, but I might open it some day. The spacecraft in a bottle was a "Super Scenes" series from Addar. I don't think that the Addar molds were purchased by Revell.

How about the wire coat hangers when you get your clothes from the cleaners?

I would think there is a very easy way to resolve this "chopped top" discussion once and for all. You could take some measurements of the model you have in hand, and compare them to the 1:1 car's dimensions. Even if you don't have the 1:1 measurements, I suspect that there are members on this forum that have access to the 1:1 car. No photos, no lens differences, no different photo angles. Just pure measurements. Of course you might not want to do that for obvious reasons. Of course, when the kit is out, someone will eventually do this, and the truth will be told (one way or another).

Seeing all the "confused" tags in this thread gave me a good chuckle. Why are you all so confused? Inquiry mind wants to know (but all I see are nameless tags). I am simply reporting what appears to be a bug in the forum software. I sure hope that it is not a "feature".

Not sure why people think this is going to be an entertaining thread. I'm simply puzzled and reporting what looks like a bug to moderators.

That is a blast from the past! Back in the day I built couple of those "bottles" from the series. I think one was a sail ship. They are long gone now.

As I mentioned earlier, if you found the color that you like, but it is too glossy, shoot some Dullcote over it. Or, here is a photo where the manifolds of my 1:43 298 Cobra is visible behind the battery. I used Alclad II 121 Burnt Iron, or 123 Exhaust Manifold (don't remember which, but I suspect 123). They dry flat.

If you like the color but not the surface glossiness, just coat it with some Dullcote (or other clear flat finish).

Now this is really silly. The "someone reacted thread is locked - no more posts. That's fine, but why are "likes" of posts still allowed to continue on a locked thread? I keep getting those silly reactions on my posts in that locked thread. Makes no sense at all. Locked is supposed to be locked - period!

True, many nail polishes (especially pearls) are translucent, and the primer color will sow through. Spoon test is recommended before painting the model.

If you have to ask, you can't afford it. Seriously, if you can afford a model for $45k (price of a nice car), the shipping will not seem all that expensive. Then there is the sales tax on $45k! seller is not very familiar with eBay rules. They now collect sales tax for every state that has a state sales tax (not just CA).

You're welcome! I was curious myself.

Now we know what this is all about. Wow! That was a labor of love! Also, the original *HUGE* eBay link has lots of tracking info. It is easy to "clean up" the long link to strip all that extra tracking. You remove everything starting with the first question mark. Here is a cleaned up link https://www.ebay.com/itm/283994994332 Here is a linked (not copied) eBay photo:

If you have something to discuss about some eBay listing, why not post a link to that, or even direct links to the pictures on eBay instead of downloading them to the post? Links should be ok, and nobody will yell at you for posting a link to eBay (it is done here regularly).

I got burned on 5-minute epoxy many times that I no longer use it for making any clear parts. It yellows (or even turns amber) after few years.

It is a good ideal to buy multiple bottles of the same color, but nail polish is also so viscous (thick) that a little goes a long way. I used less than 1/4 of the bottle (I thinned it with lacquer thinner of course), for this 1:43 scale Cobra.

In my nail polish bottles the plug is simply a soft plastic insert (milky translucent in color) that can be easily pried out, opening up the full width of the neck. I never seen a bottle where the plug was integral part of the (glass) neck.

Interesting. Bondic should work too.

Great info - thanks Mike! While the silk ribbon does not look exactly like the stuff USCP uses, it looks much better than the "regular" ribbons from a fabric store. Again, I wonder why USCP does not provide ribbon material that properly fits the photoetched hardware.

Offended? What makes you think I'm offended? I'm simply very curious as to who bothers to "vote" on my posts. Knowing why would also be nice, but that is asking too much. Still, I rather have people actually responding in written word, just like you are doing.

You are missing the point Kenneth. It is not me not touching the "like" button -- it is about me seeing who tagged my posts. Looks at all my posts - they have *LOTS* of tags. I want to know which members are doing it. As for not being an "English expert" -- you are correct. English is my second language, and I'm continuously trying to improve my English language skills. However I often notice that I have a much better grasp of it than many native English speakers. I also don't think Anglia105E doesn't need any help defending himself and his posts. Lastly, you stated that "noone care". How can you say that with 7 pages of responses in this thread? You must be blind. "Noone"? What a nice example of a proper English language!

Those are also available as the "real thing" and imitation. Real Q-Tips have cotton swabs, and the handle is made from rolled up paper. Totally unaffected by paint solvents. The imitation cotton swabs often have thin hollow plastic handles which solvents will melt.

These are called MicroBrush and they originally came from dental trade. https://microbrush.com/ You might find some bargains with a Google search, but as others said, beware of the imitations. Depending on what you use them for, they will last multiple applications. I even strap the one I use for the CA accelerator to the bottle. They can be cleaned with lacquer thinner or milder solvents.

None at all David. It's all good.