peteski

Thanks Patrick! You want to hear something funny? I suggested "Peter-built Peterbilt" as the title for that article.

Are you posting any information here (like credit card, bank account, SS number) or other information that you think should be encrypted? Secure https simply encrypts data transferred between the website and your computer. Why should we encrypt info like what kinds of paints we use, or what our latest model purchase was, or photos of our models? I don't see a problem. I'm sure SSL certificates cost money, and this website is free to use. IMO, this thread really belongs in How To Use This Board section.

Yeah, GasStationTV! Super annoying! Some (but not all) stations allow muting the sound by hitting the keys on the sides of the screen. .Sometimes you can press the same key repeatedly, sometimes you have to press more then one key. Just try pressing multiple keys to mute the sound. The UrinalTV is just too much! I feel like I'm being attacked when I'm at my most vulnerable. That has crossed the line! If I see one of those I might just pee in the sink instead!

I built this one about 30 years ago. I even sent an article about it to FSM, and they paid me for it, but never published it. If I ever build another one (I do have few more kits in my stash), I'll see if I can write a how-to article about it.

Couple of decades ago Trimaster (in Japan) used to make etched stainless steel hinges which were perfect for truck doors. I used them on my Peterbilt Can-Do wrecker. But those are long out of production. I'm not sure if Trimaster was a subsidiary of Hasegawa, or if Hasegawa bough them out at some point, but a lot of Trimaster stuff ended up sold under Hasegawa name. I just dug up the hinge set I used on my wrecker. It is called TRIPART HINGE SET (small) PC-1 Copyright 1989! The stainless steel fret that holds the hinges also has PCU-301 etched on it. Maybe you can find some old stock somewhere, or maybe on eBay. I also have some brass piano hinges. Little larger than the Tripart, but still usable for truck door hinges. I bought them several years ago from a company called Phoenix Model Developments in UK. They might still be in business.

Not at all. They know that they are not getting any bids because they grossly overpriced the item. But since eBay allows relisting for free, and there are no more insertion fees or the starting price fee, those sellers don't care if the item doesn't sell. They are hoping some some buyer to come along that either does not know the value of the item, or is desperate to buy it. I have watched some of those silly-price listings for over a year (with no bids).

MP, use plastic spoons for tests. That way you won't have to possibly ruin good (or rare) model bodies. While the spoon's plastic formulation might be slightly different, is makes a good disposable test subject.

Thanks for the photo. Silver Candy base makes a great polished aluminum finish, but not quite "chrome" to me. At least I know how it looks like and compares to chrome.

LOL, that's a good one. But seeing all sorts of craziness on eBay, I woudl not be too surprised!

Guitar string is good for representing stiff pipes or lines, but it is too stiff to represent cable. Cables need to show sag or have to be wound around pulleys or spooled. The appearance of a string is also wrong for stranded cables.

Yes, well, silver paint usually looks like bare unpolished aluminum. And the kit's "chrome" is a very thin layer of aluminum over plastic. I'm not one who thinks that the "chromed" kit parts that are highly shiny chrome parts on the 1:1 car should be made less shiny on the model. I like them to be mirror-like bright. However in your example I think the grille is made from pressed aluminum, but you dulled it too much. I think a mixture of 50/50 or even 40/60 Dull- and Gloss-cote would have given you the slightly more reflective finish you strive for. Straight Dull-cote will result is very flat (dull) finish.

I agree that is is weird to have such different experiences with the same paint, although who knows - maybe the formula was changed and we had different patches of paint. Ir maybe the type of base-coat makes a difference. I guess there a lot of factors and unknowns when it comes to paint's behavior. Mine (as usual) did not need any polishing. I don't usually sand/rub-out/wax my models. It is my little 298 Cobra.

Wow! Seems that there is some intelligence implemented in those dumb and annoying voice response systems. What I find really stupid about those is that after they collect the info from you, and are in the process of retrieving the answer, they make noises like a human is typing on a keyboard. That is just so utterly silly. Sure, all this time I thought I was talking to a live human, and I feel even better hearing them typing. Not!

I used to get photo books about cars I wanted to model. Sometimes I would actually borrow them from my town's library. More than once the library would borrow the book for me from another library. That was before Internet. Now a quick Google (or Duck Duck Go) search brings up hundreds of online photos and other references. No need for books anymore. At least for me. Unless you want a book for more than just reference photos.

I have this kit (bought years ago). Still unbuilt. This thread is giving me inspiration and some good reference info. It's looking good Atin!

Interesting. I have used the Wet Look Clear on a model (painted with Tamiya primer and Nail Polish, and the clear stayed soft for a very long time (months). If I pressed my fingernail in it, it would show a mark. That was couple of years ago, I should check if it is still soft, or if it finally hardened.

Yes, "don't take this medication if you are allergic to it, or any of its ingredients"! Duh! How would you know that if you have not yet taken that medication? It is silly and stupid, but the lawyers make them put those disclaimers in. We live in a litigious society. Or the ones which "might cause severe reaction including death"! ? Really? Do I really want to even consider asking my doctor for this medication? Or the ones that might cause "severe infections of my perineum"? Look that up. Why specifically in that area?! No thanks! And why are drug companies push their wares to general public? This stuff is something only doctors should see. I know, this way the drug companies are hoping to make more money by having patients ask for their meds (as seen on TV). What a crazy world we live in (and it is not going to get any better).

That is very sad.

Upon reviewing the photos again I do agree that the problem is not pebbly paint but fine wrinkles (crazing) in the plastic caused by the "hot" solvent in the paint. Unfortunately those wrinkles will remain even if the paint is stripped. Not sure what would be a good way to fix this. Probably a lot of elbow grease.

They are just trying to appeal to ordinary average people (not to just attractive super-models). There is usually a man for every woman, and vice-versa.

I'm surprised that Greg is gone. He seemed fairly young. Probably had some medical problem. Excellent modeler, and a really nice guy. I met him few times when he was taking photos during our club contests.

I was referring to MP and his technique, which seemingly resulted in gritty finish.

John, you might also want to read through the following thread where some pros and cons of Future (or whatever new name they changed it to) as a clear coat are discussed.

I have to disagree. Maybe as a modeler my opinion of what is a decent model is a bit skewed. To me that $18 model is not a nice replica. It is a very poor replica of the car. Nice replicas are those Franklin or Danbury Mint models which cost a lot more money. Or any of the plethora of 1:43, 1:24, 1:18 diecast or resin models available for purchase. Those look much better, and are more accurate than the $18 diecast you showed. I guess we just see things differently.

I guess my airbrushing technique is unconventional. I like to lay down wet (thus shiny) coats. I don't do the light dusting spraying. I also never sand or rub out my paint jobs. But I guess I'm more willing to take risk of paint runs than other modelers. You say that you sprayed it on too thick. Probably too thick, and too dry. If I was painting, I would open up the nozzle to have more paint flow out and go on wet. I have been using my Badger 200 airbrush with medium nozzle and siphon feed for over 30 years, and I'm used to the way it works.