peteski

While everybody touts using lacquer thinner, I think using the dedicated Testors thinner works even better because it evaporates much slower than lacquer thinner, allowing the wet paint to level out to a smooth glossy surface. Modelers also mention that using lacquer thinner allows the paint to dry into a harder coating but is that proven scientifically? I again suspect that, because lacquer thinner fully evaporates fast the paint hardens quicker, while Testors thinner needs more time to fully evaporate. But in the end after long drying time, both methods result in the same fully cured paint hardness.

Is it the added water or the heat from your fingers making it softer? Hey, but the important thing is that it works for you.

Yes, I use BMF clear decal paper in my Alps printer, but they also sell white film. Unfortunately they seam to also be out of stock at this time. https://www.bare-metal.com/experts-choice-decal-film.html Make sure to select the paper for laser printers. You might try Sunyscopa paper. https://www.sunnyscopa.com/products/laser-waterslide-decal-paper?srsltid=AfmBOopL_iZFxwrUZQrYZ_fpvThBLvhiC8wSBJEpg0am8Cr7l3N1pVlu&variant=44756694925478 They seem to be in stock. Warning: their thin film is *VERY* think. I found it difficult to deal with. I would go with standard thickness.

I received an email from them with the following info

That looks like similar cutter I own made by North West Short line. Problem with these is that unlike using a saw blade which removes the material from the kerf, these have a blade which displaces the material being cut. That results in a cut which is not straight (perpendicular to the base). This is not much of a problem with very thin materials, but if you try getting a 90 deg. cut in a thicker item, you will be disappointed and likely will need to sand the cut face to make it true.

That is absolutely true! Notice that I stated "Well, you can use water on its surface to prevent it from sticking to things, but not to make the mixture thinner. " I sometimes even use saliva on my fingers to prevent the epoxy from sticking. Might be gross to some, but it works. After all saliva is mostly water. But that was not what is not what you originally posted. You mentioned "It is two part, can be thinned with water". That to me clearly means that you mixed the water into the putty mixture to make it softer/thinner, no? I'll say again: epoxy and water to not mix.

Water? Is that some sort of new Milliput 2-part putty? The older one I have is 2-part epoxy putty and it does not get along with water at all. Just like any other epoxy putties or adhesives - water and epoxy do not mix. Well, you can use water on its surface to prevent it from sticking to things, but not to make thinner.

Yes, standard plastic cements are useless for sticking to metal (BMF). A thin bead of epoxy (clear glue) applied carefully to the edge of the window should work, or instead epoxy use canopy glue (which is white but dries crystal clear). Canopy glue is water based to it is easier to clean up if something goes wrong. Trevor's advice of using clear paint or Future Floor Finish (which is basically water based acrylic clear) is also good advice. And if the rear window does not fit because it is too large then carefully sand the edges until it fits. It might not fit due to the added thickness of the paint and BMF in the window opening. Manufacturers usually do not take that into consideration when designing a kit.

Good point, but it was likely a global corporate design with input from designers in Europe and U.S.

Obviously is a European car with the looks of its contemporary American Ford Mustang. I always earn new things here.

While that's funny, the solvent which turns the solid plastic into a liquid Goo *HAS TO* evaporate to get the plastic back into its hard state. Since liquid (which evaporates) takes up some volume, I guarantee that there will be shrinkage (even if the water was not cold).

That is an excellent question for Joann Fabrics management and lawyers. I have no clue.

You could use CA glue and some mild-acting accelerator (like BSI brand) to fill the mistake. Then sand and rescribe the fixed area within few hours of the glue hardening. CA glue continues to harden over time, but within few hours it will be about the same hardness as the surrounding styrene. But also don't do it right away. It will be too soft. Wait about an hour before working in it. Good thing is that CA glue (like 2-part putties) desn't shrink like other putties or Goo which use solvent that evaporates.

They key word here is "was".

Thanks for confirming that any Lye-based product like oven cleaner or several others will strip the metalization (and even the clear undercoat). With 250+ posts in this thread it has probably been mentioned over a dozen times.

I believe the goal here is not to have a solid-color textured roof but have it finished in the wild paisley colors in shown in the initial post. If that's applied as a decal, any texture would have to be a clear coat. Personally, in 1:24/25 scale to me any visible texture would be out of scale. Just a coat of semigloss clear would likely look realistic.

That is a good idea for 90 deg. cuts. I have a miter box which uses the same aluminum extruded shape as yours but in mine the slots for the saw blade are much narrower. Mine is made (or packaged) by X-ACTO.

I successfully use sharpened brass tubing punches to cut out gauges printed on paper (either directly or as decals). For backing surface I use one of those self-healing hobby mats. It is hard enough not to yield under pressure, but soft enough not to run the edge of my brass tube punch. EDIT: I think I sound clarify my method. I don't use the sharpened-end tubing as a punch, but more like a hole saw. I put the tube over the decal laying on the cutting mat, then place the tube over the image I want to cut. Then while pressing down on the tube I also spin it until I cut all the way through.

That's a bad news. Some time ago I bought a very nice 3D printed wire wheels and front suspension upgrade for Revell Jaguar XK-E and looking at their website, they had many other very useful items available. Like you, I hope someone else takes over their operation. I wonder why the business closed.

My local hobby shop has few bottles in stock.

I have a larger version of that tool made by Olfa for scoring acrylic. The blade itself has asimilar shape but it is larger and double ended. I'm also surprised how a blade made of hard steel got dull while being used on soft plastic. I thought it would remain sharp for a very long time and possibly only need replacement if the blade broke

LOL! If someone was keeping score, it seems that you're now the one with the last word. Funny how things work out.

I'm not familiar with the glue name you mentioned but as others mentioned, for cast polyurethane or 3D printed resin models CA glue (super-glue) or epoxy should work. Make sure that the parts you are trying to glue are very clean (free or mold release agent or other contamination).

That makes sense.

So it must be pressurized inside the frame, correct?