peteski

Blue doesn't do much for me. I prefer my Panteras in bright orange or yellow.

Another easy one for me. :-)

OMG! Those are Harry's BEST models! I saw at least couple of 1:8 scale (very large) Pocher models! I wish I had room for some of this. Tresure trove of beautiful models.

Our 25th contest will take place on October 8th at the Elk's Hall in Lawrence, MA. Contest flyer is available at http://classicplastic.org/CPMC-flyer-2017.pdf and the model entry form is available at http://classicplastic.org/cpmc-entry-form.pdf Come, bring lots of models, and help us celebrate 25 years of Classic Plastic model contests.

Thanks! The threaded bolt works, but in my example I used thick enough wire that I wrapped each turn tightly touching the previous turn. It sort of looked like one of the thick guitar strings before I dipped it in the Plasti-Dip.

That actually might be eBay's fault. There seems to be some settings that the seller is unaware which makes eBay reject requests for combined shipping. That happened to me few times. Each time I contacted seller through one of the listings (after a rejected "request total") and the sellers apologized and sent me a combined-shipping invoices. But I also agree on your other point that the smarter the phones are getting, the dumber their average users seem to become.

It is not legal, but what can you do about it? The callerID they use is spoofed so how will you report them to whatever authorities are in charge of the Do Not Call list. Are you are going to ask them for their real company name, the salesperson's name and their address and real phone number?! We're screwed!

If there is a problem, you guys should be posting this in another section of this forum. I would post complaints in How to use the forum section.

Even is you got the polystyrene melted, it would still be a consistency of molasses. Not something that will easily flow into a mold. That is why injection molding uses very high pressure to fill the molds for making model kits. For home-brew molding you need water-thin resin which will flow easily into a mold.

I guess we got a bit nostalgic while discussing another toy store declaring bankruptcy. We had K-B Toys stores in New England area too. They are all gone now (obviously).

Eh, just build it! You got it for a really good price and you are a model builder, aren't you? The only problem you might have is where to display it after it is finished - it is a large model!

I had a similar problem on my 1:43 289 Cobra. I made mine by wrapping a bare copper wire over a brass rod. I then removed the "spring" off the rod ( I had to loosen the coils slightly). Then I dipped the "spring" into a thinned black Plasti-Dip liquid (the stuff used to dip tool handles). It took some experimenting with how much to thin the plastic dip so it works just right. I let it dry and dipped it again, probably for the total of 3 times to build up the thickness. That resulted in a nice flexible ducting. It is fairly small diameter (remember, this is 1:43 scale).

Oh man, that brings back some memories! I built one back in the '80s. I even installed light bulbs in the headlights. That was a nice looking model! The black plastic was so shiny and flawless that I didn't even paint it. Just applied the decals (just like on the real car). But is was a very large model - I tossed it when I moved in early '90s. I wish I had it now (the kit or the 1:1 car).

I do - I used to buy lots of toys and models there. Then Woolworth in Boston had a very nice selection of models and paints around the same timeframe.

I have seen full-detail models entered in the curbside class at my club's contest. There is not rule against it (as long as the hood and doors are closed). As far as slammers class goes, for many years MassCar club had an interesting version of that class: It took place in the contest venue's parking lot. You would put your "slammer" model on the pavement and climb a ladder next to the model. Then they would give you a sledge hammer which you would drop on your model. You would be judged on how far the parts scattered. That was a fun class!

If you look at my club's rules in the contest flyer http://classicplastic.org/CPMC-flyer-2017.pdf , we judge most categories using a point system. While not perfect, or totally bias-free, we do not hear many complaints of unfair judging.

Just this morning I reported another scam Revell Can-Do wrecker listing. This is about a 6th one I have reported. eBay removes them pretty quickly.

From our club's contest flyer, here is a definition of "curbside": 26. CURBSIDE: Any automobile model displayed as it would sit curbside. (Hood/doors closed) Not judged using points system. 7. SMALL SCALE, DIORAMAS, SHELF MODELS, MISCELLANEOUS, CURBSIDE AND MILITARY (Class 9, 11, 23, 24, 25, 26, and 29): Will be judged using only the construction and degree-of-difficulty criteria associated with the Points System method explained in Rule 1 as well as the visual attributes and presentation aesthetics of the entry. Additionally, Dioramas will be judged on the quality of composition and strength of theme that is presented with scale equivalence of figures, buildings, etc. weighing heavily in judging decisions. We request your Diorama base size be limited to 36” x 36” maximum. We do not disqualify someone who wants to enter a fully detailed model in the curbside category (but they need to keep the hood and doors closed). I don't think that engine poking through the closed hood would disqualify the model from entering.

Yes, that series has lots of cars from the Eastern Bloc countries. There had couple of Polonez models. That series also incldes several German, French, and British car models. The models are not super-detailed, but have decent under-body details and full interiors. Not bad for 1:43 scale and not very expensive. I have most of that collection (for nostalgic reasons). If any of you are interested in buying some of those cars I recommend eBay seller "arviol" He has a store where all he sells are these models. I have bought at least couple of dozen models from him. He often lists the same model using different currencies, so look for the best price. He is a great guy to deal with - I'm a very happy customer.

Interesting info - several choices - thanks guys! As for the MV lenses, the small blue ones are often hard to find. I suppose that one could buy the clear ones then use a blue Sharpie to tint them blue.

I enjoyed the original thread, I love this one too. I just watched one of the episodes last night. The one where he was being chased by a small plane with bad guys wielding a machine gun. Jim shot them down using his gun. It was one of the early episodes as Rocky was played by another actor.

Sounds like you are familiar with Alps printing. As an Alps MicroDry printer owner/user (for over 15 years), for decals and other projects, I have to disagree with your statements. While Ink jet decals have their place, Alps-printed decals are hard to beat. And the colors are solid and fade-proof. They do have some limitations and quirks but those can be usually solved. Yes there can be slight banding, but that can usually be taken care of by the LF adjustment. They are fragile (since the ink can be scratched off) but generally that is also not a problem. Being waterproof is the big benefit of Alps-printed decals. And of course the main benefit is that they can put down a layer of white ink under color graphics. And the capability for printing metallic colors is nice too.

LOL - Alps head is actually pressing very hard against the ribbon which then presses against the paper. If the head was not touching then nothing would be printed. Alps MicroDry printer is not an ink jet printer - it is a thermal transfer printer. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_transfer_printing If there were thin horizontal lines in the graphics than could indicate that the print head went bad or something in the head path scratch the waxy ink off.

I agree, and since the quality of those kit's parts is the same as original kits those aren't really knock offs.