peteski

Good to hear. What was wrong with those garbage decals? Were they not printer cleanly, or did they get damaged in shipping?

Here is what my window looks like. My screen resolution is 1920x1080. No "view source" button.

Kit sharing between companies happens all the time. One example was Testors selling Fujimi-molded kits in Testors boxes. But those aren't knockoffs - those ware real Fujimi kits reboxed. It was done legally. What is shown in this thread is a true knockoff. This is the first time I've seen those Mercedes knockoffs. This thread kind of reminds me of the other thread about resin casters re-casting other caster's work.

Actually . . . I thought that there was a recent update. While I don't recall when the "view source" button disappeared but I'm pretty sure it was less than a year ago. Now this brings up another question: since there were no forum software updates, how did that button (or functionality) disappear? I doubt it disappeared by itself. Some admin must have changed some setting, right?

Michael, I don't see anything like that on the left. The leftmost thing I see in the post editing window is for bold text. That <> thing not the same at all - it is for adding HTML code, not for editing the post using HTML format. Oh well, like you said, new and "improved". I wonder if that button I'm looking for is still there in the newer version of the forum code, but it got turned off by the update and just needs to be re-enabled?

If you click on the thumbnail in your post it shows up larger like this:

That one is really easy for me - I remember their very distinct engine sound.

Yeah, lawsuits seem to be really popular nowadays. many are frivolous. But let's be realistic here. If some caster's original part (regardless whether it was 100% original or he used parts of existing model kits) is copied and resold by someone, he could sue. But lawyers cost money and most casters are home-based operations running on a shoestring budget. There is no money for lawsuits. The individual that copied the original casting is also most likely some schmuck living in his parent's home - he has no funds to be sued for either. The only people who would make out on this deal would be the lawyers.

So Mark, what are you going to do with that "giant" Philips-head screw in the center of the hub? All kidding aside, the level of this model's detail is amazing!

Isn't it the PayPal that emails you when a seller requests money or sends you an invoice. The emails I get come directly from PayPal.

To the left of each post is the info about the member who posted it. This is what I see on the left side of Bob's posts: Zoom Zoom MCM Ohana Members 3,391 posts Location:Tucker, Georgia Full Name:Bob Downie There, on the last line is the name of the person. You don't' see that either on your the iPad?

Very nice model. I especially want to compliment you on the headlights - they look very realistic. To me headlights are one of those things that makes or brakes a model, and often they are not very well executed. But not on your model. I also like the blue-dots on the taillights. Nice touch! Decals on the seats also looks great.

That brings up another memory for me: Matchbox made few cars in the 1970s which also had steerable wheels. Those were also worked by pressing on top of the car.

What is unclear to me is whether the spots are adhesive residue from the tape (you can feel them when you run a finger over them, or if you pick at them with your fingernail they are soft and sticky), or are those spots embedded in the clear plastic (you can't feel them with your finger)? If it is leftover adhesive then you should be able to remove it using one of the above described methods: pick them up using some fresh tape, ue a solvent like Goo Gone or alcohol (which I suspect is in the cheap deodorant). If the spots are in the plastic itself then polishing should clean them out (polishing is an abrasive process which removes a thin surface layer of the polished object). But I guess if whatever caused these spots ate deeper into the clear plastic then polishing won't work. Also, are you sure the spots are on the front surface of the windshield? Maybe they are on the back of it?

I remember seeing this: I also found this (but don't remember that lettering style).

IMO, the problem with simulating headlights by any means other than having a chromed reflector and a clear faceted lens is that it will lack the depth and sparkle of what a headlight should look like to your brain. If you want an ultra-realistic looking model you need to go the extra mile and make a scale version of the real headlight.

That resin seems fairly soft, but I suspect it is similar to all the As Seen on TV UV-curable glues. I'm also not certain if it is truly clear or slightly amber. One would probably have to contact Alumilite for a concrete answer. The UV curable stuff is pretty much only good for open-mold and thin-cross-section castings. It is also fairly viscous. To me It has very limited application.

Looks like Alumilite also sells UV-curable resin. https://www.alumilite.com/store/p/1027-Alumi-UV.aspx Alumilite sells more than 1 type of clear resin. If you use Alumilite Water Clear then the tech specs state: that castings <1/8" will need a post-cure heating and that the molds shoudl be pre-heated to 125-150 deg. F. As for which type of RTV you have (tin vs. platinum), that is described on https://www.alumilite.com/store/pg/47-Mold-Making-Alumilite-Mold-Making-Casting-Materials.aspx

That is a beautiful car. I learned about it not too long ago from an article about it in the Collectible Automobile magazine.

Looks great!

I also suspect that this "fix" is only going to work until PB realizes that this is going on and closes up the loophole. They want their $400 per year to enable the 3rd party photo hosting.

No worries Chris - I was simply curious. I don't need another hobby project, and I have feeling that it is out of my price range anyway.

Tough call. It is a big boy, but not a passenger car. This forum seems to favor passenger cars (and trucks). Bikes and farm implements in any scale get dumped in All the Rest.

You'll survive and succeed. Trust me! And if for some reason you get stuck, there are plenty of knowledgeable modelers here to help.

Starrett is the de-facto tool for professional machinists. I have some of their items (like steel rulers) and there is not dout that they are top quality and will last you a lifetime (if you treat them right). However for modeling a $20 digital caliper is more than sufficient. Like I said, I got mine decades ago and is more than sufficient for what I need. It is stainless steel and has resolution of 0.0005". More than what I need for building plastic models for my hobby. I choose to spend the big bucks on other tools, like my Lindstrom cutters or a PACE soldering/desoldering rework station. Then there are Sheline mill and lathe. I also almost exclusively use PCB carbide drill bits with 1/8" shafts.