peteski

Another vote for pinning (not just mirrors). I pin and drill usually before painting the body before painting - that way I have a positive location for the piece to be pinned without having to handle the painted body too much.

Scratchbuilt? Wow! I'm speechless. I just glue together pieces made by some manufacturers. If you took some photos of it in a natural outdoor environment (and take them from carefully chosen angles), it could easily pass for the 1:1 car! How did you make the wheels and tires?

Those are pretty much the rules at our club's contest. I think the only other thing we allow is removal of extra molded-on details which are not present on the 1:1 vehicle.

I had all the problems I mentioned by just shipping two 1oz. Alclad II bottles. Go figure...

Hmm... Don't MCW paints contain ingredients which are considered flammable/hazardous? As I understand 1st class mail is Air Mail. But flammable/hazardous contents is banned from being shipped by air. How do I know? Because I had the hardest time shipping couple of small bottles of Alclad paints back to the manufacturer (and that was within USA). They ended up being shipped by ground service wit all sort s of warning labels on them! I imagine the same rules apply to international shipments. Unless you lie about the contents of the package then you will most likely not able to ship these 1st class International mail.

I have sprayed aerosol paint and airbrushed without using a spray booth with exhaust fan, but I always had open windows for some cross ventilation. An option would be to paint your models outdoors. Many modelers do just that. I also think that a window that is painted shut should not be an excuse not to ventilate your workshop (even if you don't install a spray booth). You should be able to get the window unstuck and then at least put a fan in it to move the air in the room. I have opened stuck windows and in my experience the paint sealing the window is neat the surface and can be broken by wedging an putty knife in where the gap between the window and the casing should be. Do this repeatedly and eventually you'll be able to open the window.

How did the cornerof the concrete dock get chipped with the metal post protecting that area? Or was the post added after the accident to prevent further damage? Will you add a handrail on the wall so the person climbing the steps will have something to hold onto? The realism of your diorama is amazing. The way you take the photos also makes it look like the 1:1 scale scene!

I prefer all the clear lenses (headlights/turn signals, etc.) to be separate clear pieces, but I guess for a low-volume production run molded-with-the-grill would be acceptable. How much experience do you have producing injection-molded styrene kits? While I don't have experience myself I have seen knowledgeable people describe the process. There are things like shrinkage of the plastic to consider (so the parts still fit after molding) and things like draft angles. it is part science and part art/experience. Or are all those things will be addressed by the mold-maker?

I don't think this is related to the slowness, but I also noticed the missing UNREAD labels and found a solution here

Wow! They got a license to produce genuine Coca-Cola decals. Nowadays more and more companies don't bother with the licensing - they just issue generic decals. What is cool to see is that with these retro-kits and retro-packaging the model companies are obviously going after the old-coots who are still building models. But they will also cost more than the original $2!

Well, the government crafted a solution, just for people like you. http://www.theverge.com/2016/11/16/13651106/electric-car-noise-nhtsa-rule-blind-pedestrian-safety

Nope - not a Juke! It sure is homely though, just like the Juke.

Shipping flammable chemicals is difficult even within USA and probably even harder internationally. Often those chemicals cannot be shipped by airplane (which is how most international shipping takes place). There are all sorts of regulations to follow and postal forms to fill out. If I had a small business I would also be very hesitant to ship this type of product internationally.

I agree with others - the realism of your modeling is amazing. The closeup photos could easily be mistaken for photos of the 1:1 scale loading dock. Very clever use of the foamcore board to represent concrete. And the coloring looks very realistic. Very impressive! If I was building this model, I would add working lights too. But that is me - I like light things up!

As-shown in the above photos is that the final finish on the 3-D printed injector hat, blower-housing and the manifold? The striation or layering created by the printing process are still very prominent.

Does it rub off the model when handled?

Joe, Revell made a kit of that truck - maybe you could buy one and use it for reference when building your large-scale version?

How did you manage to duplicate this post 4 times? Are you a serial-poster?!

Polly S is a water-based acrylic enamel. In time it will form a crust around the inside of the bottle neck. Pieces of that semi-hard paint will often chip off and fall into the liquid paint. Unlike lacquer paints which when hardened will eventually redissolve when placed in liquid lacquer solution, hardened enamel will never redissolve in liquid enamel. Those crusty bits are the stuff which contaminates liquid enamels.

That looks really good. I agree that the bumper is too close to the headlights. The other thing that jumped out at me is the gap around the fuel door. It seems awfully wide and deep. The door lines seem much more subtle (which to me looks better).

Nice!

Thanks guys! The model is a Gunze Sangyo 1:32 '57 Chevy Hardtop (curbside). Yes, a 1:32 scale kit. It is part of a series depicting cars of the '50s. The kits are really well done and seem to have good proportion and very nice detailing (especially for the smaller scale). I have few more built and few still waiting their turn on my workshop bench. The '59 Ford Skyliner was also featured in few BMF ads. Here are some rear views.

Excellent idea but the headlight still looks a bit dull. Headlights in 1:1 cars are sparkly like cut diamonds. I wonder if you could use a mirrored rhinestone (as a reflector) behind the resin lens? That might brighten it up. As far as Bondic goes, I bought mine at a local Target store. They have a while end-cap of one of the isles dedicated to "as seen on TV" items.

For developing the photoresist I have built an UV light chamber using UV fluorescent tubes I bought at a local electronic supply store. But that cost me quite a bit more than $15. Before that I uses an antique sun-tanning lamp (from the '70s).

Nice! Very realistic modeling - you are a scenery artist!