peteski

Another thing about Sherlines is that they are what I consider "hobbyist's workbench size". They are small and light enough to be easily moved around if needed. I actually have my lathe and mill bolted to wooden bases with rubber feet, so they are quite portable (as my workbench space is at premium). That way I can have either lathe or mill on the workbench when the other one sits on a shelf. Unimat would be in the same category. Other lathes or mills, even small ones can be quite bulky and heavy. Yes, they are also more powerful than Sherline, but for my needs (small usually plastic, aluminum or brass parts), I don't need much power.

Yes, over the last few days the forum seemed to be slower than usual. But no errors for me - just several seconds to bring up a thread or to post a message.

Another happy Sherline user here (for over 30 years). What is great about Sheline (besides that it's made in USA), is its modular construction. I started with a plain lathe, then later added a vertical milling column to easily convert it into small milling machine and back to lathe. Several years later, I sent that vert. milling column to be installed on the XY table they use for their standard milling machine. I also bought a second spindle assy. with the motor to end up with a complete milling machine which cost me less than buying a complete mill from Sherline. Oh, my original lathe came with an AC motor, and when they came out with a new more powerful and smoother DC motor, I was able to upgrade the AC motor to DC. The modular construction can't be beat. You can upgrade as the time goes by. They also have huge array of accessories and adapters.

Unlike its name implies, it is not a glue, so it doesn't bond really well to anything. It should not stick to any sort of rubbery mold. Also the resin doesn't fully harden and stays sticky on the surface. It is soft (sort of like a really firm Gummi Bear. At least in my experience. I was able to set it harder by leaving it in full Summer sunlight for 15 minutes. If you want to experiment with UV-cured resins, Bondic is rather pricey. Craft stores sell larger containers of the resin, or look for it on eBay or amazon. It is more economical that way. Alos get a stronger UV light source or use Sunlight to harden the resin.

This is an older thread (from Nov. 15, 2023) and the person asking the question (which was also their first post) has not even visited here since January 8. We probably won't get any more details.

I emailed Dale in the past but after waiting for a long time with no reply I called him. He told me that he doesn't check emails very often. Better try calling. Here is the info (sorry I only have this single page with contact info).

Duplicate post - deleted.

The assumption here is that Gary has and uses an airbrush.

You don't understand. I have spend close to a year on some of my builds. It is about time management. To me it is a waste of time to sand. rub, polish, or wax a paint job. It would be waste of time trying to rescue a glue bomb. I just dislike those tasks, and find them unnecessary. I rather use that time I save on not doing those things for building another model. My paint jobs will not be like yours, and I'm ok with that. But on the other hand, would you be able to design and build an electronic circuits to illuminate your model? Not just a a simple LED/resistor light, but a complex electronic circuit? Our modeling goals are quite different, but yet we both enjoy our hobby. After all, we build models for our own pleasure and satisfaction. I doubt that you'll ever understand me, but I'm ok with that. For a selection of my models you can visit http://classicplastic.org/pete-w.html . I remember that you do not generally click on links to any external contents, but if you do want to see some examples of my models, click on the link.

So it was rear-engined. Makes sense with the driver's feet and pedals way up in the car's nose.

Awesome news!

You hit the nail on the head: The time consuming part is what I avoid. To me that is a waste of time, in the same category as restoring glue-bombs. I'm also quite happy with my unpolished and unwaxed paint jobs. I rather spend my time on other aspects of model building. Since the my first model kit I built as a kid, to where I am now, I have never polished or waxed a model. Well, I take it back. One time I had a piece of debris stuck in paint of a trunk lid, and I sanded and polished it. No waxing. I'm not saying Call it a short cut, or maybe not, but a quick lesson on how to cut and polish is light years easier and far less intimidating than telling a novice just to “paint it good”. All I'm saying is that it is possible to get from mediocre to quite good without the need to rub, polish and wax. That is based on my experience. One just hast to gain the experience over time. And it will not always be perfect either, even when one learns to lay down good paint jobs. Like you mentioned, to each his own.

Of course not all of my paint-jobs come out perfect, but I just never polish or wax. My first models were brush-painted using Testors PLA enamels in the little glass bottles.

Since Joe is not going to mention it, I believe he is talking about https://alsacorp.com/product/easy-chrome/ . Rather pricey, but if it works as a 1:1 car finish, it will be durable on a model.

The original formula uses Lye (sodium hydroxide) as its active ingredient. Lye is what dissolves the thin aluminum "chrome" layer, and also softens the clear lacquer base coat. The no-fumes formula I believe uses another chemical.

I'm just the opposite. If I had to spend hours polishing out a paint job, I would quit the hobby. I learned to lay down the paint wet and heavy enough that it dries smooth enough for me without any polishing or waxing.

Yes, that's what I was going to suggest. Works really well for larger scale models, but even with the weave and overall thickness being a bit out of scale for 1:24/25 models, I think it will look good.

Is that a pedal car for adults, or does it have an engine in it? Or maybe just bunch of hamsters running it? If there is an engine, it must be in the rear because the driver's legs are probably taking up most of the under hood space.

How about the Gunze Sangyo kit? I read it had some problems too.

Excellent job. Love the spoke wheels add very realistic coloring. I'm pretty sure if it was photographed against a natural background, it would easily pass for 1:1 bike.

Sure, it is underground in your development, but that is just last several hundred feet. Outside of your development the utilities come back up to regular utility poles and subjected to a typical damage by the weather or careless drivers.

Exactly. I was simply amused by the phrase Indie Pail (as in "bucket") Ale. I had no idea that there are beverages called "pail ale".

I like Pail even better! While I have never had to strip paint from resin body, I would think that glycols (which are ingredients of brake fluid, and some paint strippers like ELO and Tamiya), would attack resin. Also keep in mind that not all resins are the same. There are different brands and formulations used by different resin casters. Some might be unaffected by certain strippers, while other might get damaged. It would be wise to be careful while stripping any sort of resin item (and not fully depend on anecdotal information provided by well-intentioned forum members). Over the years I read many horror stories about resin bodies getting damaged by various strippers.

That is guaranteed, but the sky might be overcast.

Unfortunately this is quite common in the world we currently live in. While not too dangerous in this instance, but the same thing happens with political views, and there the problem is much more severe. People seem to live in their own little world of their "facts", and no matter how much proof you feed them showing that their facts are not correct, they just don't accept of believe your proof. I hope some day we can break out of this cycle (but it doesn't look too good).