peteski

Some new SUVs have 2-tone paint. Usually the body is one color and roof is black (not a full glass panel roof either - painted black). I have seen some Kia Souls which were black/red.

I mentioned 1:24 for the 1:25 scale purists. And yes, in the past, there were scale variations you mentioned, but most modern kits (where CAD and often actual factory drawings were used to make the molds), are usually quite close to their specified scale. Scale doesn't bother me. I build vehicle models anywhere from 1:6 to 1:160 scale.

No Calvin, that will not work. Well, if you have a factory "chromed" plastic part and you just need to touch up a small area (like where you cut off the gate that held the part to the parts tree), then you could dab some Alclad II Chrome to that area using a very fine brush. But not if you want to brush paint the entire part. You shouldn't tack on questions in a thread which is covering different subject. Just start a new thread/topic. I know you are new here, that is why I'm trying to give you a hint.

Topher, you're new here, but this is a model car forum full of plastic addicts. You should know better to ask such a loaded question. Size of your stash threads are started here quite regularly. Some members have thousand kits or more. Here is such thread I found in a quick search for "stash". And this one is one is not ll that over-the-top.

As I see it, if you really think that Tamiya will produce a (1:24 scale of course) model of '32 Ford, you will have to wait for a very, very, very long time. As in "past your life span". Like Tom wrote "don't hold your breath". The odds are more likely that one of the Eastern European model companies would make such models. Some of companies make some excellent quality models (almost in Tamiya's league).

There was also Tamiya Isuzu Vehicross.

Each tool has its own specific uses. Razor saw is for heavier jobs, photoetched saws are very delicate precision saws. Just like what Ace mentioned. I have both kinds of saws and use them for their appropriate tasks.

Many of you probably don't remember inkwells in your school desks. I do (and the mess we used to make back in the 1st grade). Based on that idea, just drill a hole in your workbench to hold the glue bottle. Unless you flip the bench over, there is no chance of spilling the glue!

Do you have the chipped piece of paint by chance? Something similar happened to me on one or my models (on the A-pillar) and I simply glued the chipped paint back in place. A tiny bit of clear lacquer can be used as adhesive. If not then your idea sounds usable. Make sure the decanted paint thickens enough to stay in the chipped area and fill it. Don't add any thinner. You can dab the paint on some surface other than the model to get the hang of applying it. To be honest I'm not even really sure where in the photos the chipped paint is.

I find it interesting that I'm getting plenty of likes at my earlier suggestion to add your location to your signature, but except for me nobody seems to be actually doing that. See my signature. It is easy.

The ineptitude is rampant all around us!

If up to me, I would finish it and build it as stock (not low rider), just like Harry intended. In his memory (and also because I'm not a big fan of the slammed looks in general). If this really is one of the first "crew cabs" then the model would also have automotive historical value.

Thanks, I'm not on FB, but this is for a friend and I think he is on FB. My friend is also not a very advanced modeler. You probably don't offer a more complete kit?

You have it backwards. It is all mentioned in https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminum_Model_Toys Read it - it is interesting historical info. Aluminum Model Toys bought SMP in 1961, adopting SMP's 3-in-1 kit idea and the SMP logo, which at the time was a diamond shape.[4] AMT also adopted some of the SMP kit features when making promotional models.

For the thick stubborn layer the parts need to soak for extended time and often scrubbed multiple times. Purple Stuff should work, or any other Lye-based product (LA Totally Awesome I believe is Lye-based). It is caustic stuff - wear rubber gloves. Also what helps is to keep the stripping solution warm. Not hot, but room temperature (80-90 deg. F). The warmth increases the potency of the chemical.

That can't possibly work - it is too simple!

Not all that long ago our profile included the member's location (if they chose to include it), so it was clearly visible to everybody in the avatar on the left of each post (and of course when you viewed member's profile. But recently the location info was made invisible. I always found it interesting and often useful to see where the member was from. For example maybe chemicals (paints paint strippers, etc.) vary from country to country. If I'm from USA, and if I see someone from Germany asking about some chemical, I would not recommend brand of chemical that is only available in USA. I think we could all individually solve this if we included our country of residence (and possibly a state or a region) in our signatures.

According to the Wiki article, only one aluminum model car was made. Because Gallogly had solid connections with Ford Motor Company, he was able to place his first models exclusively in Ford dealerships, starting a long promotional relationship.[1] Gallogly's first model was a 1947–1948 Ford Fordor sedan made of cast aluminum and painted with official Ford paint.[1] After issuing successful Ford sedan models, the company set up shop on Eight Mile Road outside Detroit. By 1948, injection plastic molding was already being used by Product Miniature Corporation (PMC). After the first Ford aluminum promotional model was offered,[2] aluminum was abandoned. Different colors of plastic could now be used, so the company name was quietly changed to AMT, which deemphasized the word "aluminum".[1]

I don't think you're argumentative, and as far as facts go, personally I'm not privy to any factual information other than what the AMT's timeline shows in the Wikipedia article. Like I mentioned, the definition of "the original AMT" might be a bit fuzzy, depending on your definition of what a company is (and how many original employees are still there). I'm also curious as to what is the goal of this exercise? Are the original AMT-designed kits better or worse than ones made at different times?

SO I guess the question would be what was the last AMT kit designed by the original engineering staff and molds cut by original AMT die makers? Woudl that Exclude EMT/Earl reincarnation? I guess someone would have to know how long the original staff lasted in the new companies? This is a very nebulous question with likely not good answers. It can be interpreted in many ways. Or do you consider AMT to be the original company up until the most recent Round2 takeover in 2012? To quote the Wikipedia: For a time, AMT kits were reissued by independent companies such as Stevens International and Model King, before AMT came solidly into the stable of Round 2, LLC of South Bend, Indiana in 2012. In an ironic turn that parallels other large companies, AMT now co-exists in the same organization alongside a revived MPC and Polar Lights. Ertl is still in the Round 2, LLC stable as Ertl Collectibles.

AMT is just one of the brands owned by Round2 The real AMT is long gone. For more history see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminum_Model_Toys

It depends which technology was used for printing. The SLA prints (usually but nor always gray resin) don't have any residue, but I would rinse them in alcohol just to make sure they are clean. If the parts came from Shapeways and are printed using one of their FUD, FXD (or whatever they call those) resins nowadays, they will be somewhat whitish translucent color. Those often have traces of wax which is used during printing process as support for overhanging details. Alcohol does not dissolve that wax well. I would give those a good rinse in Heptane (Bestine rubber cement thinner) or Naphtha (Ronsonol, or VM&P Naphtha) to remove all the wax. In a pinch they can be rinsed in lacquer thinner, but don't leave them in it for any prolonged period of time. Just a quick rinse should be safe. Once the wax is removed some parts of the items which were in contact with the wax during printing will turn really frosty white.

I believe that there are no kits of 1970 Riviera (there is 1969). Does anybody know if there is a resin or 3-d printed kit or just the body available for 1970 Riviera? I searched and did not find one.

Not just any primer: WHITE PRIMER. Unless of course the bare plastic is already white with no body work done to it. Yellows, oranges and pinks (or any light color) are notoriously translucent, and white base coat will make the color "pop", while gray primer will make it look dull.

Yes, that is the airbrush I have been using for the last 30 years (and still my go-to airbrush). Works for me. Few years ago Michaels had a Badger airbrush sale and I picked up one of the more advanced dual-action airbrush, but it is still sitting in its box. I will try it when I have a need to do some weathering.