peteski

Do we really need another pinned thread on In the Tips section? It wouldn't be here as this is a discussion about the magazine, not scouting for contents

What we need is Rapture. It gets advertised ever few years, but it never happens.

Sounds like a positive step. Good to know that you are still able to use the old computer. But I hope that you didn't make last post in this thread - I'm curious about what the repair shop finds was wrong. I suspect other participants of this thread are also curious. Please give us an update once you get the computer back.

Relax Chuck, The Tesla was a rental my GF rented for a day as a B-day gift for me, and we were just having fun. It was a blast! As for looking like a lunatic to other drivers, just looks around you while you're driving - probably 5 out of 10 drivers you'll see are either talking on a hands-free phone, singing, or texting. You wouldn't look like a lunatic to them - they would think you're perfectly normal. Normal is relative.

Sure, that was a handy feature 20 years ago, but nowadays you can do it with voice command. When I was driving a Tesla not to long ago, I told the car that my feet were cold. It told me that it was directing warm air to the foot-wells. Bam! Done! Look mom, no hands (or fingers) needed. But I do miss physical buttons for many controls that became controlled on touch screens.

No, just some people who use critical thinking, and sound judgement.

I seem to recall that one of the model car magazines (maybe SAE?) had a regular column which showed this kind of handy tips. Often it has pencil drawings of the procedures. I don't have a SAE issue handy to check.

When you decant the paint from a spray can, some of the propellant gas (propane) is dissolved in a liquid state in the paint. Unless you let the decanted paint jar sit unsealed for a while, the gas will still build the pressure up in the jar. The reason for shipping restriction is that both the paint itself (its solvent) and the propellant gas are highly flammable. If the can somehow bursts open while in transit, any spark could cause explosion. If the shipment is in a passenger airplane, if the fire causes the airplane to crash, you will have hundreds of killed passengers. While the odds of that are low, it could happen.

Not my logic. I just stated what coatings (since you objected to "paint") all consist of. I never mentioned anything about compatibility, just used general terms like "solvent" "pigment" and "binder". The differences you cite are due to different chemical properties of binders and solvents used in various coatings. Some solvents are more aggressive than others, and some are totally inert (like water). Binders can be various resins (urethane, acrylic, etc.). I agree that there is a large variety of coatings (paints) available. I never stated that they were all compatible.

I'm a bit confused. So the tech guy helped you configuring some Microsoft things (obviously the computer was working), then you mention "when I went to use it, the screen was black). Did your tech guy power it down and you powered it back up, but it didn't boot up? Was that right after the setup was complete, and your tech guy just walked away and left you hanging? Or did he shut it down, and when you tried to power it back up later, it never came up? What is the model number or name of your computer? Dell website will have documentation about the unit you should be able to look over. You should be able to do some basic troubleshooting, even being computer neophyte. There must be some status lights on the back of the desktop )and some maybe on the front). You didn't explain what the "Start" button is. Is that a power button (to turn the computer on)/ Anyway, when the computer is powered up, do any of the status lights light up?

Since you already had a local tech expert involved in the setup, the computer worked fine at that point. Can you get that person to come back to troubleshoot the problem with you? Is it a laptop, or a desktop computer? You didn't mention if you even attempted any troubleshooting. I assume that by "start button" you mean the "power button"? That could be something really simple (like the power cord not fully plugged in). If this computer has a valid Dell warranty, open up a support case with Dell. They will probably chat with you and step you through some basic troubleshooting. They do this, even with the most non-technical people.

Wow! Very impressive. We are seeing more and more modelers designing and printing their own models (or parts of them). I can only imagine how many design hours went into the project. But it is fun time!

They had a plan, and they strictly followed it! Neah, that would give them too much credit.

Walid, if you paste a link (pointing to another forum post) into the text area of your post, the forum automatically creates a clickable small image of that thread. Same as if you posted a link to a jpg image - forum automatically renders the image in your post instead of just a text link. Not sure if you post from a computer or a phone, but on the computer if you want to force to show unexpanded link, use the "link" button over the text area, The button looks like couple of links from a chain. That opens up a popup window where you can paste the link, It will then show up as a link. Like this: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/182480-vw-t2-camping-trailer/?do=findComment&comment=2747932 You can also enter optional text, to make it prettier, like this: Link to VW T2 Camping Trailer Post

It will be great to have those Borani wire wheels 3D-printed, and accurately designed. One thing I like to mention, is that you should consider making them to fit the kit's tires (not the actual 1:1 scaled dimensions), because often model tires are not accurately scaled. Of course if you will make them available in several diameters (like the Jaguar wire wheels you offer), that would take care of the tire size problem.

Back in the '80s when I drove a '76 Camaro in the Summer, I used to buy $200 beaters as winter cars. Couple of them were Pinto wagons. Similar vintage to this one. One Pinto was red, and the other was identical to the one pictured. After the winter I would drive them to the junk yard. They were automatics. One of them (don't recall which) had a problem with the modulator valve. I accidentally discovered that if I floored the gas pedal while driving (I don't remember the exact sequence) it would suck transmission fluid into the intake manifold creating a thick white smoke screen behind me. That was lots of fun!

They probably accidentally flipped the artwork when designing the box art. It could also have been done on purpose, to have the car's front facing right.

And what exactly is a difference between ink and paint? I tried to look it up once (on the Interwebs of course) and didn't find any explanation which would satisfy me. Both consist of solvent (the liquid which evaporates), pigment (the colorant), and the binder (the clear stuff where the pigment is dispersed). When the solvent evaporates (dries) the binder hardens up, creating a thin film on the painted surface.

Model car? Not a model car kit? Mine was probably some wooden toy dump truck I used sit in its bed and ride around. That was back in Poland.

Speaking of security cameras, when the HD cameras (and DVRs) can be had for almost nothing, most security camera video shown on the news looks like it was taken with equipment from the 1960s?! Just either unrecognizable dark blobs, or so fuzzy that you can barely see that it is a human. What good is security video when you can't recognize the criminals?

Diecast models can also be a kitbashing fodder too. Friend and fellow club member took a diecast truck, kitbashed it with another truck, added lots of detail parts, and repainted it onto a custom wrecker. Here is a link to the photo http://classicplastic.org/image/Maguire-54-Wrecker.jpg No kits (and modeling in general) is not going to suffer just because some pretty decent quality diecast models get thrown into the market.

Earlier in this thread I also suggested Alclad II Polished Brass, but Matthew already decided to use Rustoleum paint.

I wasn't sure if I should post a photo of my model in your thread, but here it is. Let me know if it is not ok,and I'll delete it.

I would have mentioned using Dullcote, but I never envisioned someone wanting to do that to a part which is supposed to depict chromed metal. If one sprays Dullcote over kit's chrome parts, they will look like dull aluminum. Regardless of how weathered 1:1 chrome gets, it never looks like dull aluminum. It might have rust stains and be pitted, but whatever areas still have chrome left, the will still be shiny and reflective. That's just how I see it. You might as well spray the chrome parts with flat aluminum paint.

Testors Dullcote is a flat clear that I have used for decades when I need flat finish. Glosscote is the glossy clear lacquer version. Should still be available in spray can and bottles. There are other flat clear finishes available from pretty much every hobby paint manufacturer, both water-based acrylic, and stinky organic-versions.