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I dont think the phaeton would work as a bugatti. its just not fancy enough for the bugatti name and sits below the audi a8 in terms of spec. Its a good car but even as a vw fan it always seemed like it was trying to be an audi and like you say, the vw name just isn't going to feature in many ceo car parks. a few folk i know in the vw scene think it was more of a production test for the engines as they got put in a lot of the vw group suvs when the phaeton went away. vw would probably use the audi a7/porsche panamera for a bugatti base. the platform is probably the most versatile for engine variety and has all the latest kit so offers more option for body and trim packages and its already used under the bentleys so we know it can handle a heavier body

if you have an amt 36 theres another option hiding in the toyoda body but its a lot more bodywork. Its on my to do list but i dont mind sharing it cos its a long list, lol

So with the fresh chassis, a little bit of thought and a saw, I've now emoved the front from the chassis and swapped some parts from the fujimi engine plate to the printed bay i've ended up with something much closer to an actual mk3 front end. Its no glued yet but the basics are there and some scratching will fill the gaps. I'll be trimming the the front legs later. and i spent a couple of hours removing the last of the gti trim which was tedious and boring but i strangely enjoyed it. I removed the floor from the interior to help with lining things up at the front, and sincethe saw was out the bumpers and boot lid came off too. and the engine i'll be using. you might see the vr6 while i'm building it but its just for mock ups as its all sorts of wrong theres a lot more to come with this one.

This was originally started back in 2019 before the new ferry arrived at my previous job. It has had work done sporadically but never really moved that far along but now with various parts from the aftermarket and 3d printing i can actually build my old golf. When i started this i didn't have anything but the body as i'd used it under a uscp wagon so i made do with an alfa coupe chassis and bmw compact interior but all that is getting put in the parts box and i'm using a second hand started kit as a donor for the chassis and interior. I'm sticking with the original body as i dont fancy doing all the changes again at this time but since i have another 5 fresh kits who knows what the future will bring. Unfortunately i dont have any pics of my old car but i know where it currently sits and it wrecked from not being used. I did look to buy it back but all my good parts are gone and the carbs are more corrosion than metal at this point. So my aim is to build it as i would if i still had it which isn't too far from what it was, just nicer finishes as i viewed it as a project but never really had an end goal ten. This time i do, abf16v, 6 speed box, boxster brakes, bags, base model body trim and interior and a shaved engine bay. Hers a recap of what had been done. I was converting the alfa engine to look like 1.8t but i messsed it up and got details mixed between it and a tfsi but i now have a correct clearly scale engine. and all i've kept

do you mean rubber black? if so its flat and looks like rubber

its also available as bondic brand. slightly different but basicly the same thing

revell are just trying to sell more of the expensive spray chrome.

If dodge had got a neon into fast and the furious i reckon it could have been more popular. there were some good builds based on them back in the max power days and if the dealers had spares in europe it would have sold better. all the basics for a vtec beating hot hatch are in the rt versions, they just need a little more refining and a decent air filter. for an american car there were a few in my area but none were rt's, just granny shopping cars

I added an alternator to the tailshaft of my skyline body swap, then pronptly forgot to take a pic and glued the flat floor on, lol

most of these aren't sports cars, these are gt cars, not really sports cars. a sports car doesn't need to be fast, just feel like its fast which means brakes and handling, so i'll go for a bottom of the barrel lotus elise mk1 and embarass most of these on a twisty road, and then overtake again while your filling with gas, and with the toyota corolla enginr it should not need any maintenance lol

if i'm bidding on ebay for an opened kit i always assume a major component is missing and bid accordingly. That way if it is, its less of an issue. I've had more issues with amazon than ebay but i've also found johan kits on amazon for 20 bucks so i guess its swings and roundabouts. if your looking at new buy it now kits you can probably find them cheaper elsewhere but for older kits i still like ebay. I'm one of those folk that puts in my bid at the start cos i dont have the patience to watch them count down.

it never siezes could describe the 3 cylinder valencia engine my mates ford fiesta that rarely had oil or water inside but was driven the length of the country weekly

I think this is going back in the box for a time. I've got someone thats going to teach me the basics of freecad so i think i want to try redoing the dash door panels to fit better once i start learning. I figure having something i'm aiming for with it will help me learn rather than just doing random stuff. I find having a goal helps me to learn better

the shocks were a pain but the rest is all one colour so it wasn't all bad. i did the shocks with molotowe and clear tamiya green and it surprisingly worked well but i did put the tamiya on heavy with a tiny brush and only had one chance at it. i dont think it would touch up. take cars when you fit the brakes, with the weighted tyres its easy to get the angles different on each side which might be why theres no actual chassis pic in my post, lol

I just use what looks right. usually its 1.5- 2.5mm size i use but i have used other sizes. I prefer evergreen over plastruct for doing tuck n roll but thats probably just because i find it easier to work with. this is a bench seat for a custom ford pick up based on a amt 50 ford bench. its taken 3 full packs to do the bench and i'm at a pack and a half on the door panels but they are only half done and might take another pack. I put a angle on the rear edge of the strips as otherwise the join between top and bottom cushions looks off. I started with the base on these seats but thats only because the back is split and it makes it easier to line up the back. I also start in the centre so it builds up evenly, and i leave them a touch longer to help with sticking the edges down and trim after its all set. on this seat i'm adding t'n'r around the edges too but you could use tiny rod for piping (which i'm doing too but havent dont yet) I also give it a good 240 sand after as the real thing is rarely half round, and my first primer is filler primer but thats just for the inevitable gaps between the strips and only needs a light dusting.

look for nail striping tape on amazon. its 1mm tape for doing pinstripes on nails and a pack of 32 rolls is less than 5 bucks. most are metallic but a bit of searching will find non metallics but they might cost extra. they can be used over or under paint and are almost as thin as bmf

I think they are similar but not the same truck. the sale truck has some different trim around the lower rear of the cab and at the top rear edge of the door. the truck of the month has extra pin striping on the decals and both have their plates in different locations while leaving no holes in the other location.

cool,

I would use an acrylic automotive filler primer to begin with and keep the tamiya primer for the later steps. the filler primer reduces the layer lines much better than the tamiya primer. you'll probably have 4 or 5 rounds of filler primer and sanding before you get to the tamiya primer. i like to mask off the detailed areas before using the filler primer to save finer details but on the body trim you dont really need to. I start my sanding with 400 grit and work up to 1000 grit. if any actual filler is needed for support holes or that now is the time to do the filler too. once you have the body prepped to where you're happy with it you can start your normal paint routine. note- i use duplicolour with tamiya and it needs a couple of days between paint types and you might need duplicolour clear too as i've never used tamiya clear over duplicolour for the tyres get some tamiya rubber black, its fantastic. on the bumpers i use c1 powders over plastikote aero aluminium. just rub some of the powders onto the dry paint and they take on a darker chrome finish. I've tried foil in the past but i just couldn't get it to look good on the curvey bumpers

i haven't used those particular items but the products i have used have done the job well enough. Sometimes their wheels and tyres feel small but they measure out correctly

its not the lights that are the problem. the problem is theres not a maximum height for the lights so we have a mixture of different sized vehicles with lights at differing heights so smaller cars get blinded by trucks and suvs. If there was a height limit most of the issues would be drasticly reduced. yes your led lights might make your driving safer at night but isn't that negated when your lights make other peoples driving worse?

and if you want to go full detail almost everything is available in 3d too

thats the same problem i get with tamiya. it used to be good but now something in the glue is reacting with the paint. i'm using frog low tack cut into strips now and its like tamiya used to be. you'd think it would at least work with their own paints

only 2000 pics? the laptop i'm using just now has 188 gig of pics or 182,428 pics and i have 2 terrabyte hard drives of pics as well. most are sorted by brand but ones i have a kit of get their own folder. its a leftover from sitting on a boat for 12 hours, lol.

in my area the ford transit was king and there were very few other brands around except a few renaults the council ran. within the last 15 years the vw transporter (t5 and up) have taken overbecause the vw can still be sold after 3 years while the fords are near scrap. the fords got smaller too which didn't help. strangely the fiesta based little transit has lighter doors than the car version, yet the car doors dont damage the hinges while the vans do exactly as you describe. seems an odd thing to copy on both size vans when its casting them thousands of sales