stitchdup

Tonight i chopped the top. I decided just 2mm would be enough to acheive the custom look i want. In the process of the chop I took the time to level out more of the door top to give it a longer look than the stock curve has. For the rear window i used my widest saw to cut along the the bottom of the window as I dont want to chop it. As you can see there were a few angled cuts down from the bottom cut for the doors. its messy but the peices are level so it just a few small pieces of sprue to fill them. most of the material removed came from the top edge of the rear piece as I like the sleeker looking chop rather than a hot rod style chop on this build. I have to run the saw along the drivers side of this edge again and reglue as its just a smidge different to the other side and its easier to remove than add back.

no worries guys, they'll still make a change of hotrod engine

Speaking for myself, i would buy more jdm engines if engine bays were available as well. or at least the top parts you can see as they tend to look wrong when fitted to the kit chassis without the suspension top mounts and other parts you see under the hood

I didn't know there was a chopped top for it, thats good to know if my chop goes bad i still have an option

A few years ago I found one of the la salle grilles mastered by Rik Hoving of the custom car chronicle web site. It took another year to find the monogram 36 coupe in a rebuildable state and luckily most of it had been glued after paint so it mostly came apart easily apart from both axles and one running board. I dont think i can save the axles so i will replace them with parts from the revell 40 standard coupe kit and an front axle from the parts box in australia. So far I've mostly been adding the missing body lines to the rear of the body and glued the top on ready for a chop or maybe swapping the roof above the raingutters with the top from the 40. I'm hoping to keep it fairly period which is not usually my style but i really like the old 30s and 40s customs by westergard and ayilla so if you see something that wouldn't be period please point it out to me. The engine is from the 40 kit and will be mostly stock unless i can find my missing triple carb set. The wheels will be from the 40 with some flipper caps i found that fit the rims. I dont know what they are from but they are smaller than the ones in the revell 50 ford truck. the tyres are from an amt parts pak and are a little smaller than i wanted to use but they fit the rims so they'll have to do. I'm leaning towards a darker shade of paint and a solid colour but if the body work turns out nice enough i may use hok pearl. I'm going to use the 40 dash as its nicer than the 36 one but the rest of the interior will be from the 36 with possibly a 48 ford sterring wheel. if you have built a 36 please feel free to share it here, especially if its the monogram kit as i have only seen the amt kit built. a couple mock ups to start redoing the rear body lines. for this I am copying Mr Gunthmiller's technique he shared for interiors using files and scribers Now i am sure many of you that have built this kit will have been irritated by the body not sitting properly on the fenders which i have found is caused by this section inside the trunk. its just a little too long but the trunk fit is poor anyway so it will be glued shut I'm not sure why some of the text has underlined itself

Cool boats, I used them and corvette boat as inspiration for a stalled build of mine

There was a custom one of these at sema a few years ago. I think most of the ones in the usa may be imported from canada as I've seen a few ex military versions for sale up in the cold north which makes sense due to the similar weather patterns

Carl have you considered netflix instead of cable? It has a lot of hidden codes to unlock more channels for free. I use it at work and with the codes you can unlock a lot more than what shows are on the basic packages. They work particlarly well for documentaries and foreign movies

I've got one of the skips drive in releases of the 57 nomad. Its awful, the chassis is about the best part on it. the engine is wonky enough that I'm sure one half is from a 1/32 v6 cos it sure has a size discrepancy. The screen is a different height on each side, both rear quarters bow inwards, and the headlights are closer to square than round. theres lots of other problems too

oh come on, the royal family aint that bad

Its a jeep with the nose stretched, normally the front fenders end at the front edge of the door

if its any help the future shine stuff is now sold as pledge with future shine on this side of the pond. Not seen it in any supermarkets except tesco but i have mostly seen it in smaller shops

My friend is flying away on holiday today. I've already set up a practical joke on him. At the bottom of his bag I've put a fairly heavy rock so my plan is to be there to carry the bags out to the car so he gets called for further checks. Last time he went away I replaced every photo of him with me, and the time before I filled his toilet cystern and bath with jello and left a fake deposit. I'm sure he is expecting something this time.

I guess if your promo is branded rolls royce it'll have a price to match.

It should work and if you did need to remove the material you could use sand inside the tubes

double check all the connections, i had a set that did that when they were loose

guess i'll have to scratch up a cooling system, revell didn't include it but it'll be a simple job

this is the t3 engine on a bug pan. its for a bug van so i had to use it instead of the earlier engine for the lower profile.

thats similar but its not a manx, it looks to be one of the many copies. the manx doesn't have such a pronounced dip between the wheels or the cut outs in the rear fender.

you can find very basic versions of those engine in the revell t3 van and porsche 914 kits. The one from the t3 van fits the tamiya gearbox and is the same scale. I havent got the 914 but i beleive its 1/25 while the others are 1/24

the wheelbase on the tamiya bug is 100mm and its 60mm wide with the option to narrow a little more by trimming off the part under the running boards. The height of the engine once its fitted might be problem though since the rear of the body looks kinda low on your pic. Unfortunatelly I dont have any that I can measure that height on without taking a build apart. I'm going to guess it would be about 30mm from the ground on stock suspension and maybe 20mm from the frame.

First you need to go into your message folder. Then if you look at the left of the page where your messages are listed, there is a box above it. If you click on it it will give you the option to highlight all your messages. You should see a blue tick appear next to all your messages. If you click on the blue ticks of the ones you wish to keep then look to about the lower middle of the page it should give you the option to delete the highlighted messages. This works for computers, I dont know if its the same from a phone

I'm not sure what kits have the parts you need but i have seen them as 3d prints

thats the one TJ, the same pan is used under the karmann ghia kit too but its hard to find and expensive now

The tamiya beetle kit is th only one i know of with a correct type floor pan and has by far the bast detailed engine. The others have the rear arches molded into the pan. heres some pics of th tamiya pan. On these it has been slammed and the front axle narrowed