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stitchdup

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Everything posted by stitchdup

  1. Condolences to you and your family sir
  2. that could be why i'm single, lol
  3. OK this part is not for this build but I will be using the same on the firebird. This is the rear independent suspension from motobitz. Its very delicate to work with but will be the correct width. I managed to break one of the lower mounts just by picking up the part, and the driveshafts were missing from it I'm using their front suspension too and its even more delicate but has no brakes. I'm still trying to find wheels that look similar and so far the vantasy centres in some larger rims is winning
  4. I've done it on a stove using a hot frying pan and a bit of greaseproof paper on top of it. Just set the model on top then when your happy with the bulge/flat spot place it on a cold plate until it sets again. Just make sure your frying pan is flat
  5. I glue them unless they are too tight to roll. If its a wire axle i give it a rough up with 220 and put some superglue on it before fitting as i've had them not stick without sanding
  6. geese dont learn, but they do remember who to drop gifts on....
  7. I use a dremel copy from lidl (20 quid with 250 tools) and one from woolworths with a flex shaft. Both can use dremel bits as they come with 3 or 4 chuck sizes. The lidl one is cheap enough that I buy a couple each time they are in stock just for the tools. I've also got a small woolworths engraver set that can be used as a dremel but you have to use the flex shaft and it doesn't seem to have enough power for that
  8. all thinners are flamable prety much, as for size it depends what you're building.I'd suggest getting one 24" wide if youbbuild cars, but if you build trucks that might not be big enough. mines 20" x 12" and another 6" deeper and at least 6" wider would suit me better but everyone is different
  9. if it a spray booth you should be fine with what your using. Remember the propelant in spray cans is flamable and they work fine in spray booths. Mines a cheap one from china and it works well enough for me, and has cut down the fumes and dust a lot. I only wish I'd got one a size or 2 bigger.
  10. Sweet
  11. wow inspirational work
  12. Its more likely you'll have to contact the seller. The contract was between them and the carrier. Being the recipient theres probably not much you can do at your end. The language barrier might be a problem as google translate isn't too good with japanese but include pics and I'm sure they'll understand the problem. My experience with japanese sellers (businesses and private) has all been good and they help as much as they can
  13. Cool project. A stretched viper front grille would go well in the opening and its already a similar shape.
  14. I think on my next resin, I'll skip the plastic primer and see if it works any better. It will be grey primer anyway so should be easier to see any problems
  15. While this doesn't look too bad, the chop is lopsided, and the glass is glued in so that it was impossible to remove, being covered inside with filler a good 3mm thick with the same on the outside. The paint seemed to be some sort of housepaint and it just peeled off to reveal cracks everywhere. So i turned it into a frog which didn't improve it, lol
  16. Thanks gents, appreciate the advice. I'm not even sure if i can buy the isopropyl alchohol over here with our stupic alchohol laws but I'm sure i can get it through work if not direct
  17. Has anyone had problems with duplicolour on resin. I'm currently in the paint process on a c1 porsche and at first it pooled in a way similar to oil on water, and just didn't want to flow nice, just to pool. I assumed I'd forgotten to scrub it so I gave it a good scrub with cif household cleaner and hot water, rinsed that off and gave it a scrub with dish soap and hot water with a new toothbrush followed by a rinse and scrub with clean hot water and another new toothbrush. This time some sections crazed a little (seems to be fixed now). I've used duplicolour on resin from the partsbox and it went fine so where have i gone wrong this time. I'm using spray cans in a booth with extractor running and I'm sure its something I'm doing wrong so some advice would be appreciated. Its only the body and not the whole part that has the crazing, the rest seems ok. I'll be using tamiya paints over this and its duplicolour clear plastic primer followed by white primer. I am only noticing the problem when the white goes on, but since the other is clear Its hard to see but it looks to be laying ok
  18. have you tried oxford diecast? they sometimes have us import stuff
  19. I would expect 3d printed stuff to warp pretty quick with the heating and cooling during the print process so we'd see it faster (speculation on my part, no experience)
  20. As well as this 2 i got another 2 tamiya beetles for use with the modelcarparts resin bugs, another revell mk1 golf convert for use with the c1 caddy and another split screen pick up. When i opened the toyota I got a pleasant surprise too, yes that is 2 mostly complete kits in the box so I'll call that a win since i didn't expect that. Theres only one chassis but i think i can cut down an extra hasegawa american series to fit as i have a spare one of them and these are going to be slammed and curbside so dont really need detailed, just some matt black
  21. I was sure there was a rear rolled pan in the original issue too, but after looking at my pics of the contents I'm not so sure now. I seem to remember the part being there
  22. look for a private seller called dimitri-oleks thats where i buy my ucsp parts
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