stitchdup

only if they tag themselves, not very many do so its a case of remembering/book marking one of their parts and searching for it to get to the page

I might have convinced a group of anmal lovers that we put wooly jumpers on ponies for winter in the scottish islands. Now a group have started planning to visit shetland during the worst weather in hope of seeing 2 ponies wearing wooly jumpers from a ten year old tourist advert. I think they are going to be very disappointed. this is the pic i posted

with those rules i think it becomes a little too narrow a theme. I would say use them as a minimum level of mods to qualify as a restomod but open them up from there. In past cannonballs people have started with a wide variety of kits and ideas and some pretty wild builds have ensued. Ones that stick in my mind are the twini mini and last years integra with the nsx chassis. Its the cannonball where we get these types of builds because there are less rules and it encourages people to go wilder. Its part of the fun of watching it for the spectators seeing how the theme gets interpreted by entrants. If the rules are too tight we'll just be watching a load of the same car being built, maybe different kits and parts but really its just 10 people building the same thing. If the rules were more open to entrants interpretation we get to see the creativity and crazier (in a good way) ideas coming out and people pushing themselves to build something they wouldn't normally do. Maybe the rules should be has to appear to ba a restomod when parked. I'm not against the rules, I just think they need loosening up or we risk having ten builds that all have the same things done to them because thats all the rules allow and it just doesn't feel like the spirit of the cannonball.

Its looks to be good quality. the body is multi piece and goes together almost as indicidual panels. The rest seems similar to a heller 30s car kit. I haven't looked closely enough to see if it has an engine or not as there seems to be a lot of sprues but most of the eastern european kits seem to be like that. I'm sure it'll go together well and have good fit, the other kits from there i've built do and theres some unusual subjects. Revelll did a rebox of this as well recently

cheers guys, i forgot to say its the 1/24 kit

an italeri range rover. it was the only car kit in the shop i didn't already have. got a tin of tamiya primer to try out too

so its just the sleeperball again?

Could someone please post the instructions for the above kit. Mine doesn't have any in the box and i have ahankering to build it lowrider bomb style

personally, limiting to bolt ons just wouldn't be that interesting a build for me. its more like building a day 2 car than a racecar. It is supposed to be a cannonball after all . it is an outlaw race so maybe limit to outwardly stock but anything else goes. or maybe have a second class for more outlaw builds?

maybe have pre 2000 as the cut off. that way some of the tuners would qualify too

all the chrome on the underside of this elco was done in january 2017. it has not been cleared and was done with the 2mm pen. It has sat in a cabinet since then. it is over duplicolour clear and paints. It has lost some shine where its a bit thinner but the majority still has a shine

not once their opened. the refills might last longer since they dont have the felt tip to let air in.

yeah, i get a lot of paint from graf city in wales, much bigger tins if you need non metallic colours too. they are pretty thin but cover well and 8 quid ($10) a tin. loads of different paint pens too including some you put your own paint into which i want to try. maybe on my next paint order

kindig describe most of their cars as restomods, including the cf1s which are 100% new parts

It has a shelf life of around a year once opened. I wouldn't even bother with the refill as the 6 and 8mm tips are cheaper and has the refill inside anyway. The left overs can be mixed with craft acrylics and tamiya so it can be useful to make a flat paint metallic but it will never be chrome again. also the molotowe pens are much cheaper from grafitti stores, the model places add another 50% when they sell it. they can keep longer if they dont get temperature fluctuations but the longest i've had one last was about 18 months and it was stored in a cool cupboard. I suspect it may be the alcohol carrier evaporating from the ink which causes it to lose its lustre

just a local takeaway, we dont have any of the restaurant chains on the islands

theres been a set of this chassis on ebay uk for about 5 years now, i think they have a body and other parts too. only 240 quid if you want all 3 parts

treated myself to pizza tonight, might as well have been bread with tom sauce cos there was 9 bits of cheese and 4 of chicken. I paid for a pizza, not a sendwich

Well I've not even cut any plastic yet and my plan has to change slighly as the zetec is far too tall for the 7, even if i scale it at 1/25 so instead I'll use the bda out of the zackspeed escort kit which should fit as the bda was just a twin cam crossflow. Its still going to be on throttle bodies though

nice work, you should put your files on one of the trading sites, being for a supernatural vehicle it would probably be a good seller. I know i'd buy the door panels

If you search pirelli on cults there are a few to choose from. It might be worth looking at slowlys model wheels sets too as some of the sets of custom wheels have vintage tyres but i'm not sure if they are a specific brand.

I really enjoyed watching you work on this. When you compare what you started with to the finished result you would struggle to believe it was the same kit

we could save the hassle of someones build not meeting the criteria by combining resto mod and pro touring. That way its a little more open and less chance of stuff not meeting the rules or arguments over what does and doesn't meet the rules. I know whatever i built would probably end up more pro touring than resto as the body is my fav bit to modify and i have a c1 camaro transkit i want to use which is def more pro, lol)