stitchdup

broadspeed xj, based on the two door body but it has wider wheel arches and the engine could be tuned up for road or race. I dont think many had panels replaced with aly but they were acid dipped to reduce the weight and the race versions had thinner glass, the one my uncle has is all steel but due to the induction on the engine it has an e type bonnet bulge which might be standard to it

The mustang looks cool but the skyline bodykit you built really looks cool. I like how you have some hints of modern VIP style to it but it still looks vitage skyline too.

A member of another forum I frequent uses future on all the chrome and clear pieces of his kits. He just dips the whole sprue in it then leans it on some kitchen paper to dry. I use tamiya light smoke clear for chrome, it knocks a little of the shine off and makes it look more like metal than plastic chrome

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plasti-Dip-Plastic-Rubber-Paint/dp/B0114N0WCM

I just make it up as i go, but one thing i add that i haven't seen mentioned yet is a half a teaspoon of instant coffee powder. It gives it a smokey taste if you like that sorta thing. I dont think I've ever made it froma packet but i have used canned chopped tomatoes with chilli added. I've seen adding diced bacon too but you have to be sure its not a salty one or it turns the chilli bad

if your mettalics are too big looking on your models there is a fix. I pretty much only use duplicolour spray cans but most of the particles are just a bit too big and look more like glitter than metalflakes or mettalics. When this happens I use tamiya clear pearl over the duplicolour to knock the glitter effect down a touch. It mutes the colour a little thouch on some colours that can be a bonus. While tamiya call it clear pearl its more of a transparent pale grey when its used (the opposite effect of the clear smoke many of us use on kit chrome). If you do use tamiya over duplicolour give it an extra day before and after to gas out before moving onto clear or the clear will wrinkle

I've printed it. The lower sides between the wheels on both sides need some holes filed and theres a hole on each side where the front upper seatbelt mount would be. and the grille warps as it cures.

its was only used from 1955-67. before that the bumpers were a lot more plain with only some over riders and those bumpers are only available in the best modelcars bug trans kits and are very hard to find now since so many got towell rails fitted when they were second hand (and many splits got the split cut out too, to make them look like the new ovals)

you might find something close in old euro race cars. maybe le-mans or similar racers

I've reported my barber to the police. I suspect he's running a stache house

plymouth fury. hemi'd and dropped with 4 buckets. Modified vw steels

use a pic of the barcode

I'm not sure where at you are in the country but wind could be an issue too. Where I am they all get put indoors for winter as they just wont hold up to a storm. You run the risk of losing everything in one shot, and it makes it really easy for thieves, no matter how secure you think you are

If you want to speed up your body prep on 3d printed bodies you only need 3 main products. You will need automotive filler primer (pick one that works with your paints) and a couple of sanding sponge cloths (I use tamiya but others are available). I use a 600 grit sponge first just to knock back the larger print lines and mask any of the finer details then holding the primer can low to the body i spray against the print lines. This way more of the paint catches in the valleys of the print lines and speeds up the process. Now I remove the masking and let it dry for a day or so. Next up is a 1500 sponge and i use it to do the whole body, including any masked off trim before checking to see if any areas need another round of filler primer. If not your good to go with your usual model prep and primers. I usually do any scribbing after the filler primer. I do this just because its easier to see and not for any other reasons.

I'm going to guess that i got them. they requested payment for both today so i think that means i got both

tamiya mazda eunos. probably slam it on some silly wide wheels and make an outlaw retro corner blaster out of it (pis from the web)

I've just ordered a couple of sets of wheels from the above but I am having trouble understanding the invoice. How do i know if i ordered something from stock or pre ordered? I think i got the last set of the aoshima cragar style rims (i need the rear tyres for some vw drag cars) as they are out of stock now but i just cant tell from the invoice or when i go into my account. Would any of you happen to know how i find this out? I only intended to buy one set but the exchange rate was just too good this morning, 2 sets including post for $15

I just checked and i'm using http as well. I have been able to use the features each time. I also auto log in if that makes a difference

One of my friends got fired from his job on monday but they want him to work the 2 weeks until his replacement arrives. He's spent the last few days on a beanbag sitting just inside the shop door reading a book. He said they've already fired me so what more can they going to do?

If you really want an old land rover everything is available to just build yourself a new one from scratch. All you really need to do is figure out which series and wheelbase you want with the knowledge that the new parts have all been given modern rust proofing. If you can build a model kit then a land rover will be easy enough. Really the only reason to buy an old land rover is to get the registration number to put on a lot of new bits (but to save the registration you need to swap bits over a few years. if you swap bits all at once you lose the registration number as its no longer the same vehicle, but doing it over a length of time you can get away with it. The best british car show is car sos, they rebuild some right snotters

youjust need a steel ruler and a sharp blade. if you did manage to find it that narrow it would be expensive when you can just make your own for pennies and as long as you have decent tape you can get any width you want anytime

i think its the same plastic as dolls heads or gi joe arms or maybe a silicone. it feels like the same texture as silicone. the seats in the recent dda holdens are a similar plastic but a little firmer

the gunze ghia is the easier to find but it has rubbery seats so if you want to paint them they need replaced. seats from the tamiya bug mostly fit but the rear seat is a little narrow but it cant really be seen unless you do a convertible. The recent revell bug seats might work too but i haven't tried those. The advantage with the gunze ghia over the tamiya is the top is a seperate piece so you have the choice of coupe or convertible. And if you use the tamiya bug as a donor it should be a easy conversion to full detail by swapping the chassis and building up an engine bay. the tamiya ghia was just the bug kit with a different body sprue. theres also a few resin and printed ghias available.

If i was posting that i would leave it on the supports. It would be more hassle at your end removing them but it would get there intact and make it easier to pack. bodies i cut polystyrene to fit reasonably snug but i have a pretty much endless supply of it from local shops