Can-Con

Yes, you were correct with "channeled". ,,just a "channeled hot rod" . I'm sure a couple of the other guys on here could get more specific. , , , and that takes nothing away from the great job you did building it.

Yea, I guess I'm gonna be "that guy". ? It's a great build but it isn't a highboy. A highboy is a rod that the body sits completely on top of the frame, not channeled.

So, Finished up the T-bird so back on this one. Did up the headlights. The bezels are from a Revell '59 Chevy with Lucas lenses. I've also been working on the custom interior between other things over the last few months. The seat inserts aren't quite there yet but they're coming along.

Sorry, typo I didn't catch,, meant to say '68. BUT, I think you can see the basic shape in there.

Yea, they can be a great looking car but you never see them around. Thanks Bruce, and everyone else who's left comments ,, I appreciate it. ??

BTW ,,, here's a couple pics of what I understand is the standard Wildcat interior,,,,

Jim, really, those emblems are so small I doubt anyone would be able to tell what's on them anyway. I'd just go with a plain button with nothing on it.

'66 Riviera interior, Again, '66 Wildcat interior, note how close the seats are. ,, and here's a '68 Pontiac Bonneville interior. I think the dash looks pretty close. ,, at least closer than the Riviera dash. IF it were me,, I'd get a '68 Pontiac dash, '66 Riviera seats and make the door panels from scratch.

Hey Steve,, Does this look much like a '67 Bonneville dash to you? ? , , Does to me.

Motor City Resins has one for a reasonable price. Includes all the stock body and interior parts.

Now that the government sells it, I think you could find out what you need to know to do it on their website Pat. ??

About HO scale. Some of those Mini Lindys arn't too bad ,, some not so good. pic from the internet.

Ya know Adam, you do a biplane, you have to do the rigging. ?

Unfortunately, the short bed GMC doesn't exist anymore. Or the long stepside like you're working on either. They used the GMC cab and Chevy chassis to make the '72 Chevy longbox. I'll never get my head around why they took the GMC cab, modified it into a '72 Chevy and put it together with the long stepside chassis along with a new box and engine to make the kit they did. Killing the option of reissuing either the AMT short GMC or MPC long stepside Chevy. They should have just put the new box in the MPC long stepside. You'd have the same kit but with a better grille and still have the GMC also.

Good to see you back on this one Anthony. I finished my '68 and I'm thinking on starting a lime green/white '70 stepside next.

Thanks everyone. ?

Supposed to have been a quick build to get familiar with the kit before I started a full in custom of the same kit. fought me all the way. Probably because the chassis I used was quite glue bombed, it took a lot more work to get strait and level than I would have liked. , , , Anyway, Here it is,, AMT '69 Thunderbird annual. Fresh body and chrome from "Allison Thunderland" funnycar kit. Chassis, engine and interior from built original kit. Wheels are Kelsey Hayes "strippers" from AMT '63 Vette and tires are Firestones from AMT parts pack. Body is Tamiya black spray with Testors one coat wet look clear wet sanded and polished with Tamiya polish Interior is Ford royal blue auto lacquer with Testors dullcoat and flocking.

Here's a good example of what the BIN can do. JoHan mustard yellow ,, Custom work done and a few coats of BIN,,, Painted in January 2017 and this pic was taken this time two years ago. Worked on it a bit last night, still looks the same as when it was painted, no bleed , no wrinkling, cracking or anything else.

I've been using BIN for over 25 years with good results. A couple things to remember though,, It will not stick to bare glossy plastic. You could lightly sand but you need to hit every exposed inch of what your painting. Or simply a light coat of any primer or flat paint makes a good base for it to stick to. Thin it down well and airbrush it. I use just cheap rubbing alcohol to thin it and for cleanup. Apply in multiple, thin coats. It flashes over quickly and you can apply another coat in 10 or 15 minutes. Keep applying coats until it's solid white and you can't see through it at all. Allow it to dry overnight. After drying overnight you can wet sand it with 1000 grit or finer. Buy it in the spraycan,. The quart can Bill shows is cheaper than the spray but you'll never use that much before it starts to rust inside the lid of the can. I made this mistake. Used about an inch of product out of the can before it was unusable with rust. Took a couple years to get that way but still a waste of 90% of the can. Not a good idea to spray strait from the can though, too thick and chunky for model use and comes out like it's coming out of a fire hose. Besides blocking bleed through and hot paints I've also used it as a "high fill" primer to smooth out damage caused by hot paints. A few coats, wet sanded between coats and lacquer damaged plastic is ready for paint again.

Na. I won't tell you that. ,, K.D. is now "Adult Contemporary" since she peeved off all the beef ranchers in Alberta. ??

All great entertainers Matt. But calling Leonard Cohen American is like if I called you Australian. ?

Both are fantastic Steve.

Paul has an excellent customer base and a reputation that's taken years for him to build. He is an excellent builder but there are builders on this forum who you can't deny would clean his clock in a regular contest. But most of them would never see numbers like that on an e-bay auction simply because they don't have the recognition Paul does there. Those bidders were bidding on "a Paul Hettick Model" ,, not just "a model of a '59 Desoto".

I really need to do up one of those '72 GTOs. ?