Can-Con

You could do that but the front edge of the regular Skylark hood is quite different from the GS hood.

So yours is the reissue from the '00s then?

I'd have to dig out my old one but I don't think those wheels are original to the kit. The original wheels had slightly thinner rims and IIRC, the ribs went right up flush with the spokes and were a touch thicker. Also not as deep as those seem to be. The red one could also be from one of this reissues of the '62 Vette kit. It's molded in red.

Another problem is Trans Ams have the front fender vents, the GTAs do not. IIRC, the last issue of the KR car I bought for parts did not have the vents.

Peter, have you ever tried this? It's thicker then in the spray can, more of a jell than a foam so it sticks to the parts better and stays on plus since it's not an aerosol there's not as much fumes from it as the spray can. [but there are still fumes, of corse]

I agree %100. Those stripes just look wrong on those later Novas. Definitely rather the side stripes. BUT, pretty sure Keith Marks does do those. I don't see them listed on his Fotki site but I do recall asking about them in the past.

The scripts are from the MCG photoetch set for the '66. Needed 2 sets to do al the scripts on the '67.

That's the AMT kit, this is the MPC kit. It always has been correct. BTW, the coupe and hatchback used the exact same rear side windows. The AMT kit was just wrong.

Seeing as the "Mach Won" funnycar is being reissued soon, which has a bone stock body, I wouldn't be surprised to see the stock '70 Mustang Mach1 follow reasonably soon. BUT, I'd say a '67/'68 Cougar would be a logical new clone.

John, there must be something with the 3-D printed parts that make them not take paint that well. Last summer I had sprayed several sets of wheels, resin and printed, with the Revell chrome spray. This was all on the same afternoon. 6 months later the resin still look good while the printed ones are noticeably duller, now looking like silver paint. Albeit quite shiny silver paint.

Actually, I'm kinda up in the air right now. I'll either mix up some solid industrial style grey/blue close to what's on it now or go all out with candy blue.

Small block Chevy but not sure exactly how it'll be set up yet.

Still can't get a date, eh, Bill? ?

True, but the shipping usually is the deal breaker for me here in Canada. If they were reissued I could get them at my local shop for a comparable price without the shipping.

Here's the second page,, The quality of resin varies a great deal from caster to caster. Because of this, we cannot guarantee the results of the finish on resin parts. CONTINUED ON OTHER SIDE MOUNTING PARTS Parts can be mounted on 6” X 8” (outside dimensions) wire frame. Heavy- duty wire coat hangers are an excellent source of material. The over lapping ends should be on an 8”side for maximum strength and stability. Overlapped area can be secured with electrical ties, wire, welded or soldered. Cross- pieces can be either more coat hanger type material or a plastic structural shape such as Plastruct. Round pieces are acceptable for “stringing” promo bumpers together, but square,” T” shaped,” I” shaped or flat pieces should be used on other pieces for maximum protection against lost parts. Wood or any other porous substances are not acceptable for mounting material. Wheels and hubcaps are best mounted on parallel rails; fastened on either the backside or an edge where the tire will cover the bare spot when remounted. Wheels and hubcaps can be mounted with as little as one eight-inch separation between them without affecting the finished product. GE Silicone II Household Glue is the recommended material for mounting all parts on your rack. The “tacky” type craft glues are not recommended as they are a water soluble adhesive. Our experience has shown that parts become loose and fall off the rack as they are being cleaned prior to coating when this material is used. Bumpers and larger parts should be separated by about one half inch. An adult size finger makes an excellent and handy spacer. Placing your finger between parts when mounting them will maintain the appropriate spacing required for best results. The ends of the bumpers should be separated at least three quarters of an inch. The finished sides of all parts MUST face the same side of the rack. Leave plenty of space between parts. The finish will be inconsistent if you try to get too many pieces on a single rack. RETURN SHIPPING Return shipping will be either via United Parcel Service or the U. S. Post Office. If you have a preference, please state so. See the Order Form/Price List for normal shipping charges. Normal shipping charge includes Delivery Confirmation if USPS Priority Mail is used. INSURANCE We can insure your order for any amounts you deem appropriate. Check with your shipper for the correct amount and enclose the additional funds with your order.

I wanted to start on this last fall but just located it again last weekend. It will be in my customary style of an unaltered body with updated engine and underpinnings. I may [probably will] keep the parallel leaf suspension setup front and back but with a dropped front axel and lowering blocks in the rear. BUT, nothing is set in plastic yet. That said, I could really use a rad/grille and headlight bar with good chrome, if anyone has a spare to trade. I've also seem to have lost one of the rear doors but I can easily cast another as the only difference in the two on the outside is what side the hinges are on. Thanks for the interest. ?

You got that for a heck of a deal. I'm hoping they reissue some of the 356s like they did the early 911s so I can afford to get a couple. ?

Thanks everyone.

It's "Little Motor Kar Company" and here's the e-mail addy lmkco@outlook.com

It probably did. I have the '80 and 81, they have the updated dashes.

Looks fantastic, Curtis, as does the real one.

BTW, I'd check in models made after 1989 or 90. Later 4th gen Vettes still seem to be reasonably priced for instance. Ford Probes and Taurus definitely had them , stuff like that.

"Period Gatorbacks" did come in a lot of MPC and AMT kits back then in 3 sizes, 35 40 and 50 series. Not only sports cars but also as an option in street machines, customs etc. The one Stealth kit I have has 40s in it. I'd imagine the promo has the same. Later kits had Goodyear GS-Cs in 35 40 and 45 series. Same deal as the Gatorbacks, not only in sports cars but others as an option. IRC, the '66 Riviera lowrider had a set in it. They all have the same inside diameter though, same diameter as the Mustang kit.

Looks great. I built one [almost] the same color when they first came out. BTW, I built mine strait from the box and was impressed at how perfect it sat without me having to fiddle with it.