Spex84

This happens to me too, at random. Some days it works normally, most days it doesn't. I'm using Firefox with Ublock Origin adblocker. I just type /page/2 on the end of the url if I want to get to page 2 ?

https://www.shapeways.com/product/U2VPN3SJM/gasserheaders-style-a-fits-sbc These are '60s style SBC headers with a big collector at the end, meant to clear the fenders on a full-fendered '30 Ford coupe, like the 1;1 example pictured below: https://www.motortrend.com/uploads/sites/21/2015/11/003-1930-ford-model-a-coupe-gasser-lpr.jpg

Good tip, thanks!

Tasty T! Great proportions and resonant parts choices...as usual, a bunch of stuff that "just works". The Revell '30 kit blower bugged me when I was nitpicking that kit (too square for my tastes), but turns out it's a perfect mirror of the T pickup bed's curves! Similarly I've never been a big fan of those Revell '32 series rectangular taillights, but I love 'em in this application! They match the shape of the blower and echo the quickchange, too. I'm not a T-hater, but like nearly everyone else I'm underwhelmed by the appearance of a T with an actual driver perched on top of it ? That's why I like T's with sunken seats and other engineering tricks so the driver can sit low. In 1/25, no-one will ever have to worry about a driver ruining the view, haha. Killer work. I'd happily park this T on my shelf ?

I've been watching this build with rapt attention. Holy moly! The work you're doing is super entertaining. At one point I really really wanted to 3D model a stude truck to 3D print, but only made it as far as assembling reference material and concluded it would be a "maybe someday" project. I'm delighted that a printed version already exists--but all the extra work you've done to yours demonstrates the amount of attention required to make it sing! Not sure I'm ready for that ? Anyway, I love this thing and I can't wait to see further updates!!

Your hard work paid off; the 'vette turned out well! ? The original green/blue color combo is SO loud and obnoxious, and yet it's perfect for the hyper-90s styling of the car.

Thanks for the promotion, Craig! Side note: Shapeways recently added a new Grey Detail Plastic that I haven't tried but am very curious about. It is slightly cheaper than the other detail plastics so I was able to knock a couple bucks off each item when customers order parts in grey! Edit: and I forgot to compliment your RPU build, which is why I was here in the first place, haha. It's looking good! The undercarriage is looking well sorted, all the fiddly engineering looks taken care of.

I was just going to chime in--I could have sworn this was a British car; I remember the build thread from the HAMB! Glad I'm not imagining things. I'm a sucker for those "10lbs of stuff in a 5lb bag" hot rods. The chop makes it look like a brick on wheels. A powerful brick :D

I'm shocked and sad to hear this. Roger built some super-clean and subtly creative models. I was always interested in seeing what he'd come up with next. Rest in peace, Roger.

Fantastic!

Agreed! Windows are a make-or-break aspect of building any resin or 3D-printed aftermarket kit, so I'm glad that your skills (and the provided bucks) are making it happen. Looking very good!

Holy moly. Some of these are rolling deathtraps. I know what it's like to not want to spend the money to "do it right", and what it's like to attempt a repair and fail, necessitating intervention by professionals...but most of these are on a whole new level. I didn't have "electrical short caused by rotting pumpkin" on my Bingo card, lol.

Dang, that's cool. I like the opened roof! The flowing C pillars look really good with that treatment.

These are awesome! Thanks for sharing I drew hot rods in high school too, but that was the 90s haha.

Lol, I didn't even notice you'd tried an alternative!! I was too distracted by the other cool stuff. The original isn't terrible, it's just that I have one of these kits myself and the windshield frame has always bugged me, but I could never figure out exactly why. Maybe you could shave down the sides and add new stanchions with a little improved detail, and a re-angled mirror!

Wow! You're really shaving the ugly off this kit. Fantastic results! It's "easy", really: just replace nearly everything! ?? Might I humbly suggest that the windshield frame be the next object of your attention? Specifically, the thickness, rough plating, and molded-in mirror?

Cool! The wire wheels look very good, and I like how the curves on trailing end of the dragster are reminiscent of the hauler's roofline. I've been wanting to try that lacing technique using CA instead of solder to fix the spokes in place, and I've always wondered how people are getting the two halves of the rim to mate without a gap in the center (equal to the diameter of the spoke wire). How'd you do it?

That's the spirit ? I'm hoping to see this Buick project carried through! As for the 3D printed version: it's cool too. It's all about spending time doing what moves you. If one guy builds 10 3D printed models and enjoys 500 hours of modeling, and another guy carves a single model from scratch out of a block of wood and treasures all 500 hours of it, then either way I'd say those are hours well spent.

That makes sense. I'm not able to edit my link within your quote (because that's your post, not mine). So in my original post (now edited), one link goes to page 1 of the cobra thread, the second link goes to page 2 of the cobra thread. In the quoted links, both links lead to page 1 of the thread. Now I'm getting dizzy. Here's a new link: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/119106-shelby-cobra-csx2001-64-tour-de-france/page/2

Some good answers here! 3D printing can be rewarding and frustrating in equal measure, just like building traditional model car kits. Here's one of my experiences from the past year, just for the sake of illustration: -spend many hours 3D modeling an I-beam front axle, poseable spindles and backing plates -spend more hours exporting the files and adding supports, slicing the file -test-print the file and experience a partial print failure -clean the resin vat,spatula the failed print off the FEP film, filter the unused resin to get the broken chunks of hardened resin out, re-level the printer,re-fill the vat. -spend some hours re-designing the file -re-support the file and re-slice it -test print again. Success! Clean an cure the printed parts. Remove the supports. Now I have an accurate in-scale beam axle with delicate little spindles, spring shackles, very nice. Test-fit the axle on a model and realize the axle will just bend into a U shape under the weight of the model, introducing a comically terrible camber to the wheels. Start all over again. Lol.

Oops, haha. I just edited it; now the "page 2" link takes you to the right place.

Cool stuff! I like the styling on that Chevelle, and the Chevy truck! I used to draw a lot with markers, not so much lately.

This is so cool! I've never been able to to decide if I find these Mopars ugly or beautiful. I'm gonna go with "handsome". Definitely worthy of an in-depth build, either way! Looks like you're on the home stretch as far as capturing the character of the 1:1 car; the carefully reworked trim around the windows should pay off nicely in the end.

Squirrels. It's worth the heat loss through the vent pipe to keep a little family warm, and if you get enough of 'em packed in there, it all balances out. ? Seriously though, I'm interested in others' solutions, as I have this problem too. Right now I just stuff a block of insulation into the exterior vent hole and cap it with a 4" galvanized duct cap, which I naturally remove whenever I want to use the booth/extraction fans. Same deal with my 3D printer.

It's ok, I forgive you, those hinges are still fantastic haha