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TarheelRick

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Everything posted by TarheelRick

  1. Not really sure, but the only thing that might work is to get some of the PVC glue where you bought the caps. I also have this set-up for a paint shaker and I use plain blue painter's tape wrapped around the bottle and clamp to hold it in place.
  2. That paint and decal work is outstanding. Love the looks of this one. Still waiting to see what you are going to use for" motor"vation.
  3. I also have this set, and with their 20% coupon it is even less. In case you are not a "frequent flyer' of HF, they almost always have an ad w/coupon in many of the automotive magazines.
  4. My first suggestion would be to get a good water filter/trap for it; it will save a lot of frustration. Then collect some milk jugs or other plastic pieces and start practicing. Most people suggest mixing to the viscosity of milk, which can be a bit suggestive, but is a good starting point. Different types of paint will require different mix ratios and air pressures to attain good results. As you practice it may be helpful to keep a journal of what you have done, that way you will not have to "re-invent" your technique with each paint job.
  5. A high school friend bought one just like this brand new, he immediately blew the engine. The local dealer replaced it, within a few weeks he blew it again. The dealer replaced it, but with a warning. You guessed it, it didn't take long before he blew it again. This time he replaced it with a 427 at his expense. In a few weeks he wrapped it around a tree, some cuts, bruises, and a broken arm but a lesson learned. Now back to your build. To me the 65/66 Impala/Chevelle SS's in Marina Blue were some of the prettiest cars from GM. Your rendition is just as beautiful. Great job.
  6. Cool idea and wise use of a leaning tower. However, I don't know about a 3000 mile road trip in something that small.
  7. Maybe you could build an N-scale dragstrip and use those for timing towers and press booths. JK, wish I had kept my N-scale stuff.
  8. I don't know what that is, but IMHO it is hideous.
  9. Or if there is an A. C. Moore nearby, get their "app" on your telephone and you will have a 55% off coupon, plus if you are a veteran they will give another 10%. Makes models almost affordable again, if they had a decent selection.
  10. As the others have said you have accomplished some excellent work. I especially like the skin tones you have used, they are so realistic. Very well detailed build, thank you for sharing it with us.
  11. Those are some mighty "low-profile" tires on the back.
  12. TARHEEL basketball, Duke basketball,, moonshine, and a quickly growing Yankee immigration.
  13. Received my part of the trade from iamsuperdan. Very well pleased. Would trade again and would recommend him for a reliable trading partner.
  14. I was attempting to fill the roof and cowl flaps on a NASCAR kit. I would get it sanded smooth, primered, put into the dehydrator and it came out with a really rough texture and raised above the roof level. I sanded it down again, primered, into the dehydrator and got the same results. Guess I am slow to learn, but it took me three tries before I finally realized the problem was the dehydrator. It appears the heat will cause this stuff to swell and from what I can discern it will swell indefinitely, well, that may be a stretch, but it is a real pain.
  15. One other caution about using acrylic nail filler, other than the odor issue. Do not put a model with this filler into a dehydrator. For some reason the heat will cause the filler to swell - ask me how I know.
  16. Beginning to really take shape, looking forward to updates. One word on using the acrylic nail filler, do not put the finished model in a dehydrator, the filler will swell up - ask me how I know.
  17. Very nice build. Is the jail box real wood? If not that is some excellent painting. Also is this the Revell '29 Roadster/Rat Rod pickup kit?
  18. Good looking T-Bird. "What's the word? Thunderbird. What's the price? 50 twice".
  19. I have used this stuff quite often doing bodywork. As with most other stuff it works much better with lighter built up coats. It is quite fluid, dries very hard, is quite sanding intensive, and bonds extremely well - in fact it will hold stronger than the plastic it is attached to. I will use it extensively if I am attaching body parts that will require sanding. When I split this roof for narrowing I used the acrylic nail filler as a glue and as a filler, it holds extremely well when sanding.
  20. The Mustang is a Revell "Dead Drop" that has been heavily modified into a circle-track racer. I added cross braces to the chassis after adding subframe connectors, scratchbuilt the rollcage, interior tin, the wheels and tires came from a 1/25 Revell Motorworks Mustang. The hauler is a Mack firetruck pumper which had the pumper section cut off, roll back was scratchbuilt, the truck cab had the back section cut off, reversed and mounted higher to form the sleeper. I also used a tray from a package of cookies to build the sleeper cushion.
  21. Mighty fine looking Ramcharger. Very well detailed, especially like the subtle pinstriping - even on the gas tank and skid plate. Great job.
  22. Another inexpensive option for interior paints are the acrylic craft paints from Hobby Lobby, Michael's, etc. Quite often they are on sale for $.69-79 a bottle and they offer a wide selection of colors. Thinned with isopropyl alcohol they spray quite nicely and if you desire they can be cleared with an acrylic clear to a very nice gloss. Here is an El Camino interior and an exterior of a modified race-car I did with thee paints:
  23. Not really good with identifying engines, but I believe #3 is a Y-Block Ford. Yet the circles, which I presume to be exhaust ports, represent a V-6; which I have never heard of in the Y-block series. #1 looks a whole lot like the many BBC's I have seen in builds.
  24. A good friend "shackled" his '62 Ford Galaxie (352 4V auto). One night with two other friends in the car going around a small curve at a higher than normal rate of speed those shackles unloaded and he rolled it down a bank onto some unused railroad tracks. He had two broken vertebrae, cuts and bruises, the other two had broken arms, concussions, cuts and bruises. Lucky to be alive, seatbelts were not "in-use" then. That being said, I did put rubber spacer blocks in the coil springs of my '65 Chevelle along with helper springs. Those blocks kept falling out, but the helper springs kept it arse high..
  25. That is some way cool creativity. Where is "Mrs. Franky" going to be placed?
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