jaymcminn

Looks fantastic! Whenever I just want to build something without it turning into a wrestling match I go for Tamiya. When you don't have to stress out over the basics you can have fun adding some detail.

Great to see this all together. It sits beautifully!

I dunno, clear coats seem to completely flatten out the finish based off of the results in the original post. I'm betting anything applied over it would kill the reflectivity. Something like Vallejo Metal Color Chrome would probably work better... it doesn't quite have the shine of these products but it can be coated and not lose its shine.

Good to know. A proper dead-flat finish isn't easy to get.

Unfortunately, there just isn't an unequivocally good 928 kit out there. The Fujimi is a very basic curbside with an interior tub and metal axles. It also has fitment challenges on the front and rear fascias. Gunze Sangyo released a 928s kit in the 80s that was available in a Testors box as well. It could be built as a full detail(ish) model with opening everything and engine detail. The fit of those opening panels was exactly what you'd expect from a third-tier Japanese manufacturer in the 80's. The wheels are terrible as well. The Italeri is the one I don't have experience with, but it looks to have a properly-detailed interior, basic engine detail and good proportions. Those 80's Italeri kits are simple and a bit clunky, but can be built into nice replicas. That's the one I'd probably go with.

Absolutely worth it. The Fujimi EM 356 Porsches (this is a rebox of the Fujimi EM) are a high-water mark in model kit design. They're not exactly an easy build, but they are very rewarding. Gratuitous pic of my 356 Speedster build below...

Absolutely ridiculous in the best possible way. I love it!

Good start on this one. I built this kit back when it came out and have been thinking about revisiting it for a while. I'll probably go with red, but I'm leaning toward Mica Red. I think the shape needs a metallic or pearl to accentuate those lines.

I was pretty tempted to go with the Rosewood... it's a great color that's similar to the "Merlot Mica Pearl" on my 1:1 '95 Miata. Agreed that even the more subtle colors on the new Z need the black roof to look right. That black roof helps hide the "heaviness" that comes with just about any modern car.

That's a sharp color combination on that 86. Glad to be able to help!

Next up will be my new GR Supra in the traditional Toyota Gold Leaf livery!?

I've got to ask... how did you do the Kevlar front floor panels? I tried bending the PE kit parts into shape but it didn't go well. If Italeri was going to make them in PE metal, I don't see why they couldn't do them in brass which would be more easily formed to the complex curve of the floor pan. At this point on mine I'm thinking about using styrene sheet and filler to replicate them directly on the floor pan using the shape of the Kevlar decal as a template.

I'd glue thin styrene strip around the edges of the hole, inset by the thickness of the part, to create a shelf for the part to attach to.

Well, it is the Sunshine State...

My first build for 2023 is a kit I didn't quite get across the line for 2022, the new-tool Tamiya Nissan Z. I really like the new Z, and was pretty interested to try out the Tamiya kit because the reviews have been so positive. It wound up on the back burner, however, until I saw one at my LHS and it became an instant impulse buy. As an 80's kid, I have had the tendency to view curbside kits as being simple toylike shelf models for amateur builders. It's a prejudice that a lot of modelers have that often stops us from exploring many of the excellent offerings from the Japanese manufacturers over the last few years especially. The truth about this kit is that it is not simple, not in the least toylike, and probably not the best option for an amateur builder. It is beautifully engineered, meticulously designed to replicate its subject matter, and rewards a skilled builder with an amazing replica that will proudly sit on any contest table. As always, my first priority was to sort out the color combination. I like most of the stock colors but I wanted to create something a bit more personalized. I actually pulled from one of my own favorite builds, the 1/12 scale 240zg I did several years back. I did that one in Racing Green over saddle with gold Panasports... The question was: How to update this look for 2023? I decided to go with a more muted green pearl with terracotta accents for the interior. I decided to keep the gold wheels but tone down the color and paint the new Z's distinctive window molding in the same gold. THe result would be modern and stock-looking. Almost like a factory special edition. Below are some assembly highlights. First the lighting elements, that are complicated combinations of clear and opaque elements and fiddly decals that do a great job of replicating the complex lighting of modern cars. Next, the window and lighting glass assemblies. These feature pre-cut masks for both interior and exterior. The interior is designed with separate elements to eliminate as much masking as possible on the two-tone seats and door panels. I used embossing powder for the interior carpet...otherwise the entire model is 100% box-stock. The terracotta color is a matte brown from Revell's new line of acrylics. These paints thin beautifully for airbrushing with Vallejo acrylic thinner medium. The body was painted in Tamiya AS-21 IJN Dark Green 2. This green has a very slight blue undertone to it. I followed that up with three coats of Tamiya Pearl Clear and three coats of TS13 clear. Base coat... After pearl, clear and polishing. Phone pic makes the pearl look a lot heavier than it actually is. Tamiya molds the roof separate from the rest of the body to make it easier to replicate the two-tone color scheme of most Z's. The roof was painted in TS14, cleared, polished and installed. Exterior glass sandwiches in between the interior and exterior roof pieces with big mounting tabs. The chassis was painted in a mix of Tamiya lacquers and Vallejo Metal Color acrylics and weathered with Vallejo washes and Tamiya Weathering Master pastels. Wheels were painted in a mix of Vallejo Metal Color paints to create a sort of "champagne gold" color. I painted the trim above the side windows (another separate piece) the same color. I picked out the lug nuts in Molotow chrome and added a light wash to the hub area to make them pop. Ordinarily I'd add valve stems but I really wanted to stick to box stock. I'm a little surprised that Tamiya didn't mold valve stems in! Body with grilles and lighting elements installed. The grille elements were dry brushed on with Vallejo Metal Color Chrome. Almost there... And the finished model! Overall, this was a really impressive kit and a great way to break out of a slump. I had a lot of fun with this build. As always, questions and comments are welcome!

Looks pretty impressive, but it seems to have the same limitations as current products... doesn't take clear coat, doesn't like to be handled, etc. It looks like it might be less finicky to use than Molotow or (especially) Alclad as well as being useful for modelers who want to "rechrome" parts and don't have access to an airbrush for applying the other chrome finishes. Thanks for posting this up!

Rivets are the absolute worst. Tedious, fiddly and you lose about 10% to the carpet monster. Unfortunately for us modelers, once you've produced something that looks this good you can never go back. Amazing work!

1: Build the new 1/12 Bugatti 35b by Italeri. 2: Finish my stalled 1/12 Delta Integrale project. 3: Branch out a little bit... I have enough sports/exotic/classic car spares around to create some pretty interesting street rods. I've had a Ferrari V12-powered Deuce idea kicking around in my head for a while.

I buy white cotton flannel by the yard at the fabric store and cut off what I need (usually about 4" square pieces) as I go. It's cheap and perfect for polishing. I don't wash the cloths after I use them... I just dispose of them to keep any dried polish or contaminants from affecting my work. Microfiber will pick up contaminants such as polishing abrasives and hold them in the fibers. Washing or rinsing won't always get it all out. Another nice thing about the flannel is that there are no seams, tags or edge stitching to possibly cause scratching. When I clear coat it's always with TS13 and I never have a problem. For polishing compounds I use Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Polish, which are the best I've ever found for either 1:1 or scale applications. They don't leave anything on the finish which allows for paint, foil or decal work over the polished surface.

Google Translate ist dein Freund! 05653 Aston Martin DB5 Gift Set - 'Goldfinger' in 1:24 The Aston Martin DB5 is one of the most iconic cars in film history and now you can own your own model with the 'Goldfinger' edition. Perfect for Bond fans of all ages, this 1/24 scale 90 piece level 2 kit (easy-click kit) comes with everything you need to bring your very own Bond vehicle to life. As a highlight for all 007 fans, there is an original film poster for the gift set. Easy to build No glue Paint only for refinement and detail Typical features of Goldfinger Buildable Brushes and paints included

Here's a couple for your grandson!

Very sinister. Nice build of a challenging kit!

Those old Hasegawa Ferraris are nice kits. You did an incredible job on this one. Great photography and bold color choices!

Your pic isn't showing up but your description definitely sounds like your paint is too thick. If you're trying to use unthinned Testors enamels that would do it. Wet sanding will only go so far. Strip your paint and start over. Buy a pack of plastic spoons and practice on those until you get the hang of airbrushing and the correct thinner/paint ratio. Lots of threads on here about airbrushing you can read to get some ideas.

Thanks guys! That Porsche was a labor of love for months. 1/12 is my favorite scale lately, you can cram a fair amount of detail into a big-scale model!