R. Thorne

Thanks, neighbor. It is a nice kit. A coating of floor wax applied, some less than average black back window marking, and mod podge on the windows. Now, a sneak peek at a future Stock Eliminator build (geez, I wish I could stay focused and finish more builds).

I had problems with the GreenStuffWorld chrome airbrush version before, so I decided to try again with this chassis. Same results (just looks like an aluminum paint). I went over the headers and driveshaft with the non airbrush version with the usual sterling results. In the first pic the header on the left has the non airbrush version.

Also, kept the t-handle shifter from the kit, with what looks like a line lock button made into it (will use it on a stick shift super stocker). Ahh, sweet memories of my youthful days. Used a floor shift from a 50 Austin kit.

Thanks. Some bits & pieces. Made some gauges, just for fun (trying not to take this build too seriously). Gauges are from the number 66 on a chrome sprue as is the tach from the sprue end doused with the ubiquitous black sharpie. Also, drilled out the collectors.

I started using the Mig brush (and cement) a few years ago because of its pin point precision compared to Tamiya’s flooding. It allows a tiny amount of cement to be applied for a temporary bond without waiting for drying (my impatience is showing). Otherwise, CabDriver’s suggestions are dead on.

Outstanding attention to detail.

Made a motor mount from scrap, trial fit engine, driveshaft, hood, header clearance. Looks good. Brushed floor polish on windshield (easier than dipping) . Also, like the looks of floor polish on the other side of hood. Will brush whole car with it with a soft bristle brush.

Thanks for the kind words. Tried some fine and finishing compounds on one side of the hood with ho-hum results. Gonna try some floor polish and Novus on the other side just for kicks. Just realized I need another strip of chrome on the front of the hood. Also tried some Flysea chrome. Looks good.

Thanks, Mike.

Did the driver’s side and front grille. Is it the best bmf job I have done? Of course not. Was it the easiest and quickest (about 10 minutes altogether for this side and the grille for both sides) ? No question about it. Probably won’t do much more today (time for bull riding).

Thanks, neighbor.

A BMF experiment with dual cutters producing a 1 mm wide strip applied directly to surface. Except for the mistake of cutting 2-3 inch strips instead of 1-6 or 7 inch (you can see the overlap in the middle of the door), I was pleased with the no hassle process. Took me about 10 minutes altogether.

Oh, yeah, wiper blades. When you take pictures, it sure reveals the blemishes and the true state of things. Blasted iPhone.

Well, my lazy gene and or tv addiction (mostly Norwegian mysteries and Russian WW2 war films) got hold of me for a couple days. Anyway, got a coat of primer on the interior and chassis (may leave it at that, don’t know). Experimented (there’s that word again) with some new Tamiya brushes and a painting stabilizer (jury is still out on that one) painting on some chrome door handles and trunk emblems. Later.

Nice work. Send me some of your energy/enthusiasm.

Also, I have weakened the bond by simple dousing the joint with Tamiya cement, waited a minute or so, then trying to separate the joint.

Oh, by the way, Carl, thank you for all the encouraging comments you have contributed on this forum.

Consider purchasing something like this.

Clean, detail oriented model. We, of course, have to know more about that outstanding paint job. Looks like a lot of work.

Parts pack small block Chevy with 4 speed Hydramatic ready to install. Wheels and tires and headers I plan to install. Hopefully,will get interior painted a tan color tomorrow.

Started this car last June, then it went on the back burner, to be replaced by a slew of Stock Eliminator cars and an A/SR replica car. Well I have bogged down on the roadster, and decided to try and finish the Plymouth. This car is being built as a possible competitor to the 1937 Chevy of Moody & Jones that I built a couple of years ago. Anyway, the body was first sprayed with a gold base that turned out crappy, then given a alcohol bath to remove that, then hit with mr. Surfacer primer. After that, then Tamiya silver leaf base and clear red. All with spray cans as an experiment. Oh yeah, scratch built the hood scoop.

Excellent wip pictures and narration. Looking forward to more posts and progress reports. Sorry, but my ocd kicked in. That’s a razor saw, not jewelers saw. I assume you lay the putty on heavy to not worry about shrinkage, but looks like a lot of sanding. Very glad you are recuperating nicely.

Nice job with one of my favorite kits.

Nice, clean, build. Thanks for letting us see this sharp car.