R. Thorne

This was started as a diversion from some of my more complicated builds. Well, the best laid plans of mice and men often go astray. I now have 5 1964 and 1965 Dodge and Plymouth cars in process. This will, hopefully, be the first one I finish. This is an example of the type of car I am pursuing . Car was initially primed with 500 Surfacer to fill some sand scratches (mistake), then sprayed with Tamiya ts14 with this result. Well, after a bath in 91% alcohol, it was sprayed with no primer (again ts14). I also sprayed a couple other cars at the same time with decent results. Be back later with more. Oh yeah, comments (good, bad, indifferent) , critiques, suggestions, are always welcomed.

Outstanding. Wouldn’t it have had skinnier tires on the front? Gonna keep my eyes peeled for that book (at a reasonable price). Very nice job and thanks for posting.

Thanks for replying. Never thought about the dash being different. I have ordered some ts92 (sorry, not ts93, but you only missed it by 1, lol), and some dark gray primer to see if that would affect the color. Also, some Tamiya racing white for the 2 tone. Do you recall if your 37 was sprayed over light or dark primer? This is my first attempt at the seat brackets. Again, thank you, it is much appreciated.

Anyone know of a close color match to the Miller Guenther Plymouth? I have some testors copper and brass enamel that I might mix for that color. Also, are there decals available for it? I have the Moebius Butch Leal kit for starters and 1937 Chevy Cragars for the wheels. What is the simplified IP (instrument panel ?), Tim? Just what I need, to start on another car, when I have about 6 unfinished projects going on, lol.

Looks like you’re off to a good start. Super guy, Bob Glidden. I first met him at a service station outside Columbus, Ohio after a points meet there in the mid 60’s. He was driving this rig ( not my photo).

You are most welcome, sir. If the creek don’t rise, I will be posting my 1965 Plymouth wip build tomorrow. Your passion for this hobby always inspires others, myself included.

Guess you’ve got something like this. I would be lost without it, especially the light, even though I burn thru aaa batteries too quickly.

Nice work. Gotta love the early super stockers. Just curious, did you fill the holes for the arm rests? I did on the 1964 Plymouth Belvedere kit I have to make it into the A864 hemi car. Got it all sanded down, then, surprise, on the other side of the interior panels, as on your car, there are no arm rest holes and a plain interior as the hemi car had. So, I flipped it over. Also, did you forget to sand the rear slicks smooth and sand too much on the front tires as I did.

Thanks, I was pleasantly surprised at how well they turned out. All 4 black paint jobs had virtually the same outcome (unlike my picture taking and not dusting off some of the models before taking pictures). The paint and 500 surfacer came right off in a bath of 91 per cent alcohol. I fell into a 1964-1965 Dodge & Plymouth hemi Nhra Stock eliminator rabbit hole and am building a fleet of them. The outcome of that one bad paint job (with the 500 surfacer) may have been influenced by too short a drying time, also. Sorry to the original poster if I have hijacked this thread. This is my first car.

Sandboarder is correct. It was the gray 500, btw.I tried spraying over the 500 because it looked so smooth after priming with it. Perhaps a different thicker paint would have eliminated the roughness, but the Tamiya, especially the black, is very thin and more transparent. That is probably why the paint jobs come out so glossy. As I said, all 4 paint jobs, in the end, were sprayed with Tamiya paint only, no primer, no gloss coat.

Oh, btw, I did 3 cars with one can. One light coat, one heavier coat, one wet coat. No runs on any cars (4).

Well, I really like the ts14 Tamiya paint. These were done over bare plastic (no primer). I did one over mr. Surfacer 500 primer, but did not sand over the primer (big mistake clearly, but not all experiments are winners). It went in the tank, then was painted over bare plastic. Pardon the dust on some photos.No clear coat, no polishing on any.

You are not imagining things. The “back plate” that fits on the axles front and rear is too large for the axles by about .005”, making for a very sloppy fit. One of the few things I dislike about these Lindberg kits of the 1964 Dodges. You could drill it out and shim it with tubing, put half round shims in, or simply glue it in with thick glue or ca. On the “glass is half full” philosophy side, it does allow you to jig the chassis up to make all 4 tires sit on the ground.

I have more pics, but here’s a couple interior shots you might like.

Thanks for the correction/update. Just have to post a picture of that awesome car. I am deep in the rabbit hole of 1964-1965 Chrysler hemi cars with 1 replica 1964 Plymouth a864 Savoy sedan of a gentleman I knew in the Sixties, 4 1964 Dodge hemi Lindberg kits for current rules in NHRA stock eliminator (AA/SA), and 3 Moebius 1965 Plymouth sedans for Stock eliminator also. Before you say it, yes, I will be posting some pics in the in progress section in the next day or so, thanks, mostly, to your prompting to do so in the past. Thanks again for all that you contribute to model building.

Beautiful! The wagon holding the hood got me. I carried a lot of water on one of those back in the day. No driveshaft loop?

Had tried numerous little caps and lids with ho hum results. On my crowded work area (is there any other?) , I would occasionally touch the glue with some part or tool. Well, I am trying this empty pill bottle (with old people, they are ubiquitous), half filled with lead pellets for stability, and on the bottom is a nice little trough for the ca glue or accelerator, or whatever you like. It is sufficiently high off the bench and sturdy/spill resistant. Of course, the price is right.

Used masking tape yesterday and worked fine. As others have said, you can paint the hood underside first getting the edges at that time, or hold the hood on with whatever method, leaving the hood sitting ajar, so the edges are covered when painting the whole car. Thanks for the replies, gentlemen.

Right or wrong, I try to do all my body painting with the hood on (carryover from 1:1 days). Cuts down on mismatches painting the hood separately. Up til now I have always give it a touch of glue in a couple spots to hold it on. The ubiquitous tak stuff seems to work as well, however, and, less cleanup after painting.

Very interesting, Plowboy. Thank you.

Want something like these 2 cars have. Found some individual type in the amt 1966 Nova kit and 67 Chevelle pro street, but would like the sandwiched together assembly type. Found some resin ones on eBay, but the quality is hard to detect in their pictures. Could scratch build, of course, but would rather not. Any suggestions?

You’re welcome, sir. Thank you for the many helpful posts you have made on this forum.

Gx113 is a flat coat, didn’t you mean gx112 for a gloss coat?

Great info. So much knowledge in the old magazines. Thank you for posting.

Really like the “lay” of the plug wires. Seem to have the correct flexibility of the real wires. Remember the material used? The other Willys kit would have been the K. S. Pittman car. Not my favorite style of car, but, you make anything look good. Thanks for posting.