R. Thorne

TarheelRick, did you get my PM’s?

Great tips and pictures, guys.

Once again, thank you, gentlemen. The knowledge imparted and help given on this site should be an inspiration for all who visit here. Rick, you have a PM.

Thanks again, gentlemen. I am going to mull over all the great suggestions and do some further scrounging.

Thank you, gentlemen. Your prompt, knowledgeable replies are much appreciated.

After some research, the top appears to be a “bop top” replacement top. So I will probably have to scratch build it. All the model kits have the oem style and don’t come forward on the rear sides like the “bop top”. Anybody here ever built one?

Currently gathering parts for a replica of the car in the picture. The top seems to be a stumbling block. Would like to find a kit with a close facsimile of this top. Would prefer 1/25 scale, but may have to be 1/24. No 1/32 or 1/8 scale.

Just a thought and then I’ll go away. Why not use a car cover on your pickup when you get ready to paint if you are concerned about it? Also, if finances allow it, use a dehumidifier in the garage. This would be good for painting and storing a car.

Build or buy a paint booth. I also live in Southern Indiana, one time I painted 4 models at one time because the weather conditions were ideal that day. But those conditions are rare. Most of the time it’s too humid or windy or cloudy or too cold. I ruined a number of paint jobs because of that. It is amazing how much the conditions affect the paint job. Even if you have no way to exhaust the vent, it will still capture most of the particulates. I doubt very much your painting skills are lacking. It is the conditions you are working in. It is almost impossible to be consistent when you are fighting variable weather conditions.

I thank you, Peter.

Thank you for taking the time to investigate and share that information.

Thanks so much. Sent you a reply.

Very, very, nice. Lots of intricate work and thought went in to this model. Where did you get the narrow front tires? Shapeways Caltracs? Why the stock fuel tank and not a “hidden in trunk” fuel cell? Did you use a particular race car as a guide? Reminds me of my friend Mark Poole’s car. Again, kudos, for a sharp build of my favorite type of race cars.

Stayed there, also. Atmosphere at night was a tad noisy and boisterous at times. The food there was awesome and the people that worked there were wonderful.

Ace: curious that your pics don’t show on my screen.

This is my less than average build of that car that started me on this model car journey about 4 years ago.

1966 Chevelle wagon 283

I like the Modelmaster ( if available) buffing metalizer sheet aluminum.

T for trophy (class finalist). E for Eliminator. Couple of mine from the 70’s at Indy.

Nothing lousy about those pics. Great engine detailing. Is the lacing .030” outside diameter? If so, I assume, after removing the core, the inside diameter would be about .020”? It appears this is on back order. This is a UK company, I guess, so additional shipping adventures and delays are involved. As my other post indicated, I am looking mainly for distributor cap boots (1/25 scale) and your suggestion looks good. I don’t like the 1mm shrink tubing I am currently using because of the hassle of heating to shrink it. Looks like the lacing is flexible enough to do the job. I will try to find an equivalent US based product not on back order. The wire loom separators are scratch built? What material? Your input is greatly appreciated.

Thank you, Greg and Doug.

1/25 scale sohc Ford.

If you can still find it, try some modelmasters aluminum plate buffing metalizer.

Using a MAD pre wired distributor (which I like a lot) and looking for realistic distributor (not spark plug) boots as in the picture. Tried a few things and was not happy with the results. I have ordered some 1mm shrink tubing to try, but am looking for other ideas. Also, plug wire separators as pictured.

Wow. Was not aware this car existed. A lot of work there duplicating this car. I like it.