R. Thorne

Great job, Tim, as usual. I feel better, now (lol). Glad you took my comments in the helpful vein that they were intended.

Thank you, sir, for taking the considerable time and effort to post these pictures and comments. Your passion for the hobby is self evident in your replies to others and willingness to help. Sorry, but my ocd shows the black hub is still there (lol). Merry Christmas.

If you want to see a modeler/craftsman (no talking, just building) in action with excellent camera work, check it out. The cars are not my cup of tea, but very enjoyable viewing.

Cheap, thinned, craft paint is the only way to go for panel lines, etc. The Tamiya did a number on the paint job of one of my models. Consequently, I only use it on kit chrome grilles now.

The quadrajet carbs I have gotten from Chief Joseph are astounding.

Thanks for reply. Just trying to help. Some other people can’t take comments or critiques without offense. By the way, YOU got me started again on my project. I am posting progress reports on another forum (that has the owner’s son as a member and he is helping me with additional information on the car). I will post the build on this site soon. Thank you.

You definitely have been working. Looks good. Can’t help it, my curiousity is never ending. Wouldn’t the blower idler pulley (the part that rubs against the belt) be aluminum or shiny? It appears as if you have painted it black.

Outstanding job and excellent pictures.

Tried to send a message and pics, but it said Tim Boyd cannot receive messages.

Gotta love accurate replicas of old gassers. Don’t get discouraged like I did on my A/SR 1932 Ford.

Nothing crazy there. Beautiful.

Outstanding.

Car Craft was my favorite magazine at that time and I remember seeing that cutaway of Prock & Howell (shoot, that issue is probably buried in the garage). Did you have a big block chevy sourced for this build back then? What type of trans? The wheels look great. Thanks for posting and good luck.

I was referring to these photos and the black lines I see there. Guess that is on the original car and not the restored one.

Perhaps a bit presumptuous of me , but, wouldn’t the fuel lines be black to mimic the original ones . Back then “regular” hydraulic lines where commonly available and used, weren’t they?

Richard, what kit are the fenders on the roadster from? Or are they scratch built? I am attempting to make some.

Use thinned, cheap, craft paint and apply with small brush. Clean up with water. No more paint smudge worries. Been there, done that.

On Steve’s YouTube channel (there are 2 parts) , some fascinating details about Revell’s 1/4 scale model kit. Must see for car guys.

Being also from Southern Indiana, our forecast is 60-65 this weekend and sunny. The humidity level is also critical. More conducive to good results. After saying that, I have painted in today’s conditions and not had any problems, but painting is so BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH picky that I would not do it again. Thankfully, my paint booth negates all those worries now.

Man, you do good work. I especially like the tach drive, radiator cap, master cylinder cap (what kind of paint?). Need to move the top radiator hose clamp closer to the radiator?

Your tips always make me think about how to build better models. Thanks so much.

A stick shift mopar bracket car? Lol. Excellent electrical and wiring work. Too late to stick some other slicks on? A lot of effort here on making it right. What tach and bolt heads for shoulder harness?

Excellent thinking, Greg. For those too “challenged”for this procedure, Dspaie offers bladeless pliars for this application.

You will wonder how you got by without the handheld mixer. A word of caution. Some paints (like modelmaster metalizer), are quite thin and will “climb” up the side of the bottle and leak out (ask me how I know). Solution? Put your thumb and forefinger on the shaft to regulate the speed ( might take a little practice).

Outstanding job. Thank you.