R. Thorne

Great idea.

Another possibility is the plastruct 90102 butyrate coated wire which I am going to try on my next one. If not, the candle is your best friend.

This is almost too simple. I use tamiya thin cement (with the small applicator brush) a lot and it is awkward at times to take the lid off and on. I put double back tape on the square bottom and fasten the cement to my mat in the spot most useful but out of the way for working. This allows me to take the lid off and on with one hand easily and I am less likely to leave the lid loose for too long as it is easy to fasten with one hand. If I need to move it at some point, it is easily done without much damage to the mat.

Can’t have too many stockers/superstockers on this forum (vintage and modern day). Where did you get the front wheels? Keep at it.

I do not take good pictures, but these came out of the Revell Pontiac parts pack. I don’t think they are as detailed as yours.

That is the 50-520 tool. They also make a 50-540 which appears to be larger with an offset tip option (also more expensive). Thanks for bringing these to my attention. I just ordered the 50-520 from Walmart for $6.99 (including shipping). Ron.

In order for this to be more “period correct”, it should have a blown small block chevy ( like Jim Sermersheim’s corvette which I saw run back in the sixties). I doubt that anyone ran a blown 409. You do good work, sir, and your contributions to this forum is immense.

I like the trumpeter scriber better. The tamiya does ok on straight lines, but not on corners or curves.

That pattern on the slicks could have come from the rollers that were used to start the cars at some tracks.

You are correct, Snake. Front and rear fenders would have been required along with a passenger seat. Also, disc brakes would not be correct, either. Most ran no brakes on front.

Really nice job on probably the rarest thunderbolt. Rear shocks look like coil overs (in 1964?), but maybe the old Monroe Load Levelers?

Chris, those are bolt together cragar wheels, as this time period was before the centerline “rivet” wheels became available. Notice the Cragar decal?

If you will check the 1969 rule book, you will see that they were limited to 7 inch grooved tires. I understand on the headers and please don’t misconstrue my comments as being overly critical. It ‘s just that I was there and ran in stock in that time frame (ran a 1953 Oldsmobile), so this stuff is more familiar to me. Anyway, great model. Ron.

Really nice job. Seems like most chevy stockers had fenderwell headers, though, and 7 inch “cheater” slicks ( had 2 grooves in the tire). Your slicks look like 9 inch tires which came later on, of course. Your car sure takes me back to those days. Thanks for posting.

Tip up.

I believe those are model tt63 weld wheels patterned after the old torq thrust style wheels. Hope this helps. Ron.

Detail master #2590 is honeycomb style.

I like the umm-scr-01 for scribing new lines.

That car was ran in the early 80’s by Harold Stout , I believe. I can remember reading about it in car craft or ss&drag illustrated. Bob built it, of course, but don’t know if he ever drove it much, other than testing. Bob said that there was a lot of work in that car. Anyway, your model looks dead on, including the wheels (motor wheel flys, I think).

Beautiful.

Same reasoning for longer primary and collectors on the exhaust. Longer for lower rpm torque and shorter for high rpm power.

Welcome back, Niko. I always enjoy your builds.

Great engine detail. The carb appears to be darker on the base plate (just like the real 4gc carb). What kit did the carb come from? I like the linkage, also (very realistic). Wish there was a better return spring you could use, but beautiful work.

Some progress on the rear tail lights and license plate area.

Thank you, Dan. I am working on the rear tail lights now. I have decided to use the ones from the less than average 67 gto kit (with modifications, of course).