R. Thorne

Find some 7 inch “cheater” (grooved) slicks.

I like it a lot. Are you going to put a strip of styrene under the drip rails to duplicate the top of the door and rear window top strip on the sedans?

Very nice clear, concise tutorial. Thank you.

Thank you mr. Geiger for taking the time and effort to help others. Great idea.

Thanks for the tip, I will try the micro fiber cloth (will probably work better than my current method of using whatever clothes I am wearing).

The 9215 testors kit is very convenient for painting small items (engines, chassis, etc.). I use it with the modelmasters acryl paint ( no thinning, mixing, etc) and cleans up with water. For painting bodies, Tamiya spray cans (ts series) are the best unless you have an airbrush.

Believe it or not, the main reason for carrying the hp and cubic inch on the cars was for the spectators. Most spectators and people in the pits looking at the cars appreciated “stock” cars and were curious about the type(s) of engines they had. Until I lettered my car, the first question(s) was always the size of engine and hp.

Thanks for sharing.

I got the one without lighting and added my own. Use mostly Tamiya spray cans and have no problems. Quality piece of merchandise. You won’t regret it.

I was under the impression that everything at mcw was “out of stock” and they were all “built” after you ordered the model. Right or wrong?

Up until a few months ago I used model cement ( Tamiya extra thin mostly) . Removing the paint had become tiresome, however, even with a number of “specialized” tools. I now use ca and it is much easier and faster to not have to remove the paint and it appears to hold securely. I also use Bondene (“glass” held in place with pressure from my finger and bondene applied with a micro brush around the edges) to install windshields (thanks Donn Yost). I applaud you for keeping an open mind.

The overlapping on the windshield is very similar to foil in that it is difficult to see. Personally, it was less frustrating for me than foil and the finish is less “wrinkly” and more shiny than foil with no buffing necessary and no removal of adhesive. Ron.

These are simply chrome decals of varying thicknesses that you cut out and apply like a long thin decal with setting solution. They don’t like curves, but they overlap similarly to bare metal foil. Apply decal solution, then decal, then more solution to help move decal into place. For windshields, it would take 2 long and 2 short pieces that would overlap. I did learn to cut the decals to the exact length before applying them (much easier than trimming the length after they were applied). Ron.

Sorry, picture didn’t turn out well, these were supplied by warbirddecals, part # 007 and 008. Ron.

Saw this in last issue of scale auto and decided to give it a try. Here is my first trials. Jury is still out, but may work ok on certain applications. Apologize for picture quality.

www.scalehobbyist.com.

I use a short piece of 2x4, drill appropriate size holes. Very stable.

Just curious, what wheels and tires did you use? The NHRA number would be 4 digits starting with 5, by the way.

Sharp thinking, guys.

Simple, clean, but meticulous and accurate.. Great job.

Thanks for the reply.

Great job. What paint did you use on the wheels?

I am currently building a 1965 Chevelle wagon (amt surf wagon kit) replica of my first chevy race car (283 super stocker in the mid 70s). The instructions do not say anything about it but there is a tailgate panel on one of the sprues that covers up the rear screw holes in the interior. Take a look.

Unbelievable. Thank you.

I have to ask. Who makes the shoulder harness/belt brackets? What material is used for the harness itself? Did you scratch build the “leather” flap on the end? If so, what paint is used to resemble leather? Thanks again, Ron.