R. Thorne

Thank you for taking the time to investigate and share that information.

Thanks so much. Sent you a reply.

Very, very, nice. Lots of intricate work and thought went in to this model. Where did you get the narrow front tires? Shapeways Caltracs? Why the stock fuel tank and not a “hidden in trunk” fuel cell? Did you use a particular race car as a guide? Reminds me of my friend Mark Poole’s car. Again, kudos, for a sharp build of my favorite type of race cars.

Stayed there, also. Atmosphere at night was a tad noisy and boisterous at times. The food there was awesome and the people that worked there were wonderful.

Ace: curious that your pics don’t show on my screen.

This is my less than average build of that car that started me on this model car journey about 4 years ago.

1966 Chevelle wagon 283

I like the Modelmaster ( if available) buffing metalizer sheet aluminum.

T for trophy (class finalist). E for Eliminator. Couple of mine from the 70’s at Indy.

Nothing lousy about those pics. Great engine detailing. Is the lacing .030” outside diameter? If so, I assume, after removing the core, the inside diameter would be about .020”? It appears this is on back order. This is a UK company, I guess, so additional shipping adventures and delays are involved. As my other post indicated, I am looking mainly for distributor cap boots (1/25 scale) and your suggestion looks good. I don’t like the 1mm shrink tubing I am currently using because of the hassle of heating to shrink it. Looks like the lacing is flexible enough to do the job. I will try to find an equivalent US based product not on back order. The wire loom separators are scratch built? What material? Your input is greatly appreciated.

Thank you, Greg and Doug.

1/25 scale sohc Ford.

If you can still find it, try some modelmasters aluminum plate buffing metalizer.

Using a MAD pre wired distributor (which I like a lot) and looking for realistic distributor (not spark plug) boots as in the picture. Tried a few things and was not happy with the results. I have ordered some 1mm shrink tubing to try, but am looking for other ideas. Also, plug wire separators as pictured.

Wow. Was not aware this car existed. A lot of work there duplicating this car. I like it.

Brake fluid.

Thanks for the great information.

Looking for a 1935-41 Ford kit with a small block Chevy engine (with headers and stick shift trans, if possible) . Need donor kit for a 1935 Ford C/A . Have Jimmy Flintstone chopped 1935 body, but need stock type front end and rear end (not independent style rear). Of course, I need 1935 Ford grille, but that’s another story. Thanks in advance for any input.

Don’t forget, if you are spraying with a dual pattern airbrush, you have a built in blow gun for that final clean off right before applying paint.

Perhaps as a holder for pliars and sprue nippers hanging on the side, but I think your idea, Rick, as a miniature trash can with a lid, is one of the best. The problem with them is they are a tad large for my limited space, but thanks for the suggestion.

While a bit pricey, you might consider the Tamiya cleaning and anti static brush.

Good idea. Thanks for posting.

Perfect plastic putty is ok for very small imperfections, but I have never had much luck with it for what you are attempting. Sprue glue, 3M 2 part putty, or mr. Dissolved putty might be a better option to fill such a large gap.

If you don’t want shrinkage, the 801 Bondo (or similar 2 part filler), is the answer. Yes, it has a drawback of harder sanding, but you don’t have to apply it over and over again as you do with almost everything else.

Sprue cutters are a personal feel type of thing. I have a number of good quality ones, but the one on the far right is my current favorite. It is the cheapest looking one with the rather unusual plastic “thingy” for a spring. It was about $28 and has the unusual name of 3.peaks mk02.