R. Thorne

Some possible choices for the front. Leaning towards making some copies (a first time for me with the HobbyLobby kit) of the Pro-Tracks or the Shapeways. I have got to do some more digging for the rear wheels (they’re gonna be the toughest for me, I think. Any suggestions?

After a mini slump attack, I got the firewall patched and thought about modifying the kit valve covers ( to look more like Mike’s welded up and hold down bolt slotted ones). Decided to use some NASCAR ones and scraped off the Chevrolet insignia and tried to sand and scrape some angles on top. The pictures don’t show the results of this very well ( perhaps after they are painted?).

Thanks, Steve and admin. As I suspected.

As the title implies, what happened to the country of origin and part of the country the poster is from in the bio? Just curious as to the reason why. Makes it more difficult to give advice without knowing what part of the world the poster is from.

Thanks, Ace. Much appreciated.

Not much to report. Some cutting on the firewall to remove heater core box and wiper motor. Also, cut the stick trans off. Scratch build of sub frame connectors and electric water pump is next.

Old gassers are hard to beat. Great conversion. What happened to Dave’s rear bumper?

You use whatever works, plus it was free. A power glide it is, then. Dug one out this afternoon. You have been a great help. Thanks again.

This might be helpful to those that are inexperienced.

Scrounged up some parts from my aftermarket drawer (boy, i’ve got to get that stuff organized). Goodyear 9” slicks, the awesome q-jet from Fireball which I have to carefully cut off the base, couple auto transmissions. Undecided whether to modify the turbo 2004r or the turbo 350 to replicate the turbo 200 used by almost all 3 speed gm cars. The turbo 200 is not available from the aftermarket the last I checked. Also, noticed in the pictures graciously sent by dragcarz the Cloyes aluminum timing cover.

A little sanding on my Folgers jig and, except for some final smoothing, calling the hood done. Some paint tomorrow. Would have got done sooner, but just had to watch “Tremors” movie for a laugh. Hadn’t seen it in probably 20 years. Great fun.

Some hood work. Too wide and tapered inconsistent so couldn’t sand flat. Also removed tang on bottom with my nippers and built up tapers at the rear with 1/16” square stock.

The expandable rubber freeze plugs with a strip of sandpaper is another consideration. Commonly available at auto parts store in either 3/4” or 7/8”. I also use them with masking tape to sand the tread onf tires.

Wow, great stuff. That should keep me busy for a while. Thanks so much.

You are correct in your assumptions, I believe. The current rules in NHRA Stock Eliminator are not enforced nearly as strictly as they were when I started racing. Randy Lynn Shipp’s Firebird is an excellent example of “loose policing”. Thanks for your comments. They are always appreciated.

It certainly helps to post these WIP builds as I had not noticed the irregularities on the hood where I filled it with primer and thought I had done a good job. It will go in the 91% alcohol tanks for a redo, but in the meantime I discovered a hood in a 72 Nova kit I had purchased as a donor kit for a 1974 GTO model years ago. With some modifications, it should do the job and I will repair this hood for another Nova build.

Well, it is certainly a small world, right, Roger? Danny Ashley got Mike started on Q-Jets years ago and Mike still does them today. It looks like it’s gonna be a while before I can get any pics, so, if you can send me yours, that would be most helpful. I am specifically needing information on the roll bar or cage (6 point or full cage?) and color of interior. In the pics I have the bar looks to be a gray color. Otherwise, the traction bars and single or multi-leaf rear springs? Thank you for responding.

Sorry for delay. Thank you, gentlemen for your kind responses.

Starting a build of the car my friend (and fellow racer) races. I have known Mike since the mid 70’s and he claims I am responsible for getting him started in drag racing. Anyway, the first pic is the kit I am using as it seems a lot of people leave out that info. Began with mold line removal and reducing the clearance light sizes and some side and trunk emblems that are not on his car. Etched the whole car with a fine sanding stick as an experiment. Turned out ok, I guess. Primed with mr. Surface gray to show defects, then Tamiya white primer to help the orange paint stand out a bit more. Painted with 1 light coat then 1 medium heavy coat Tamiya orange then 1 medium heavy coat of Tamiya clear. There will be no sanding or polishing on this one.

Keep in mind that the marking on the tire sidewall on older tires does not necessarily mean the width of the tread (e.g. 6.70, 7.10, 7.60 are not tread widths). Also, “pie crust” or regular side walls were available in the 60’s in a 10 inch size. You might consider making a 10” out of a 9” tire by chucking it in a drill and sanding it out to .400” wide. You might be able to do this on some tires. I believe my 37 Chevy gasser came with 10” tires, but can’t be positive. The Stone, Woods, & Cook gasser definitely came with 10” tires as the photo shows. Your best bet in a kit would be gasser kits, although some would have wider tires. My photos should load shortly.

Many thanks for posting these excellent pics here and in the WIP section. A LOT of work and patience shown here. I had the privilege of watching these cars run in the 60’s. An outstanding representation of this car. I am surprised that there were no traction bars on this car, just the stock sway bar. Great job and keep ‘em coming.

You might consider sanding twigs or sticks. These are 1/8” wide.

Sure brings back a lot of memories doesn’t it? Couldn’t find the tail lights?

Thanks, guys. Encouragement is always appreciated.