
R. Thorne
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Everything posted by R. Thorne
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Oh, btw, I did 3 cars with one can. One light coat, one heavier coat, one wet coat. No runs on any cars (4).
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Well, I really like the ts14 Tamiya paint. These were done over bare plastic (no primer). I did one over mr. Surfacer 500 primer, but did not sand over the primer (big mistake clearly, but not all experiments are winners). It went in the tank, then was painted over bare plastic. Pardon the dust on some photos.No clear coat, no polishing on any.
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You are not imagining things. The “back plate” that fits on the axles front and rear is too large for the axles by about .005”, making for a very sloppy fit. One of the few things I dislike about these Lindberg kits of the 1964 Dodges. You could drill it out and shim it with tubing, put half round shims in, or simply glue it in with thick glue or ca. On the “glass is half full” philosophy side, it does allow you to jig the chassis up to make all 4 tires sit on the ground.
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Thanks for the correction/update. Just have to post a picture of that awesome car. I am deep in the rabbit hole of 1964-1965 Chrysler hemi cars with 1 replica 1964 Plymouth a864 Savoy sedan of a gentleman I knew in the Sixties, 4 1964 Dodge hemi Lindberg kits for current rules in NHRA stock eliminator (AA/SA), and 3 Moebius 1965 Plymouth sedans for Stock eliminator also. Before you say it, yes, I will be posting some pics in the in progress section in the next day or so, thanks, mostly, to your prompting to do so in the past. Thanks again for all that you contribute to model building.
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Had tried numerous little caps and lids with ho hum results. On my crowded work area (is there any other?) , I would occasionally touch the glue with some part or tool. Well, I am trying this empty pill bottle (with old people, they are ubiquitous), half filled with lead pellets for stability, and on the bottom is a nice little trough for the ca glue or accelerator, or whatever you like. It is sufficiently high off the bench and sturdy/spill resistant. Of course, the price is right.
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Used masking tape yesterday and worked fine. As others have said, you can paint the hood underside first getting the edges at that time, or hold the hood on with whatever method, leaving the hood sitting ajar, so the edges are covered when painting the whole car. Thanks for the replies, gentlemen.
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Right or wrong, I try to do all my body painting with the hood on (carryover from 1:1 days). Cuts down on mismatches painting the hood separately. Up til now I have always give it a touch of glue in a couple spots to hold it on. The ubiquitous tak stuff seems to work as well, however, and, less cleanup after painting.
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Looking for wheelie bars.
R. Thorne replied to R. Thorne's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Very interesting, Plowboy. Thank you. -
Want something like these 2 cars have. Found some individual type in the amt 1966 Nova kit and 67 Chevelle pro street, but would like the sandwiched together assembly type. Found some resin ones on eBay, but the quality is hard to detect in their pictures. Could scratch build, of course, but would rather not. Any suggestions?
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Gloss clear lacquer what are you using
R. Thorne replied to stevez's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
You’re welcome, sir. Thank you for the many helpful posts you have made on this forum. -
Gloss clear lacquer what are you using
R. Thorne replied to stevez's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Gx113 is a flat coat, didn’t you mean gx112 for a gloss coat? -
1965 Mopar FX Fuel Injection - Instruction / Explanation
R. Thorne replied to jabba's topic in WIP: Drag Racing Models
Great info. So much knowledge in the old magazines. Thank you for posting. -
A semi-period correct 1948 Ford Gasser...(UPDATED w/parts list)
R. Thorne replied to tim boyd's topic in Drag Racing
Really like the “lay” of the plug wires. Seem to have the correct flexibility of the real wires. Remember the material used? The other Willys kit would have been the K. S. Pittman car. Not my favorite style of car, but, you make anything look good. Thanks for posting. -
The evil twin...mid 1960's type BB/SR drag racing street roadster...
R. Thorne replied to tim boyd's topic in Drag Racing
Outstanding; beautiful paint and great overall look. Now, my ocd kicks in. Please call it a AA/SR, as there was no BB/SR, only B/SR (unsupercharged). Did you put a small clear windshield on later, as you did on the A/SR? And, that pesky fuel hose fell off the tank in one of the photos. -
Making tires look aged.
R. Thorne replied to James Maynard's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
That’s the Mr. Muse I referred to (aka Mr. Whyte) in my post. -
Making tires look aged.
R. Thorne replied to James Maynard's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I considered purchasing one of these a few months ago (thanks, mr. Muse). There is a generic and Paasche brand available. These would have to be used outside or in the garage and definitely respirator use. Different types of media are available for different surface requirements. I don’t know for sure about compressor requirements, but doubt a large compressor is required. -
Making tires look aged.
R. Thorne replied to James Maynard's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Not as good as Greg’s suggestion, but I used tamiya’s lp65 (rubber black) on the slick on the right (sorry for lousy picture). -
A/SR (mid-1960's Altered Street Roadster) full detail model kitbash
R. Thorne replied to tim boyd's topic in Drag Racing
Well, I like the “zoomies” in this new picture, even though they would not be as historically accurate on an unblown car, of course. Evidently, the Eelco style gas pedal was “de rigueuer” in that time as it was also used on the replica I am currently working on (albeit, stalled at this time, for a number of reasons). Thank you for your prompt and informative replies. -
A/SR (mid-1960's Altered Street Roadster) full detail model kitbash
R. Thorne replied to tim boyd's topic in Drag Racing
Mr. Caudell’s model has some interesting features: injector ball plugs; head rest; weathered parachute; nice formed tonneau (seat) cover, etc. But, the most interesting thing, to me, is whitewall tires on the inside on the driver’s side, and, on the outside, on the passenger side. Either that, or, whitewalls inside and out? -
A/SR (mid-1960's Altered Street Roadster) full detail model kitbash
R. Thorne replied to tim boyd's topic in Drag Racing
Thanks so much for replying. In this pic the hose appears to go to the fuel block, so, let’s call it a fuel pressure gauge. One of the dash gauges is probably a tach, ok? Seriously, great work, and thanks for sharing. -
A/SR (mid-1960's Altered Street Roadster) full detail model kitbash
R. Thorne replied to tim boyd's topic in Drag Racing
Once again, your outstanding builds raise questions. I like the fuel pressure gauge on the cowl, but why the (appear to be) partially cut off windshield posts? Wouldn’t they have normally been just taken off completely? Don’t the rules require a hood (though the sides can be removed) ? Does the car have a tach? The card on the right says AA/SR. Does this apply to the other gentleman’s car as this would be a supercharged car? Do you have any more pictures of the other car? The headers appear to be fender well type. Did you scratch build or are they off a Super Stock type car? I very much appreciate your posts on this forum.