R. Thorne

The overlapping on the windshield is very similar to foil in that it is difficult to see. Personally, it was less frustrating for me than foil and the finish is less “wrinkly” and more shiny than foil with no buffing necessary and no removal of adhesive. Ron.

These are simply chrome decals of varying thicknesses that you cut out and apply like a long thin decal with setting solution. They don’t like curves, but they overlap similarly to bare metal foil. Apply decal solution, then decal, then more solution to help move decal into place. For windshields, it would take 2 long and 2 short pieces that would overlap. I did learn to cut the decals to the exact length before applying them (much easier than trimming the length after they were applied). Ron.

Sorry, picture didn’t turn out well, these were supplied by warbirddecals, part # 007 and 008. Ron.

Saw this in last issue of scale auto and decided to give it a try. Here is my first trials. Jury is still out, but may work ok on certain applications. Apologize for picture quality.

www.scalehobbyist.com.

I use a short piece of 2x4, drill appropriate size holes. Very stable.

Just curious, what wheels and tires did you use? The NHRA number would be 4 digits starting with 5, by the way.

Sharp thinking, guys.

Simple, clean, but meticulous and accurate.. Great job.

Thanks for the reply.

Great job. What paint did you use on the wheels?

I am currently building a 1965 Chevelle wagon (amt surf wagon kit) replica of my first chevy race car (283 super stocker in the mid 70s). The instructions do not say anything about it but there is a tailgate panel on one of the sprues that covers up the rear screw holes in the interior. Take a look.

Unbelievable. Thank you.

I have to ask. Who makes the shoulder harness/belt brackets? What material is used for the harness itself? Did you scratch build the “leather” flap on the end? If so, what paint is used to resemble leather? Thanks again, Ron.

Great pictures. Thank you for trying to help others. The blue tape is one of those “why didn’t I think of that?” .

Get the xuron2175, you won’t regret it. There are others (even the harbor freight one isn’t bad) that are ok, also. They make taking the part off the sprue a joy, usually require only a quick hit with the sanding stick afterwards (depending on how picky you are). Most good quality sprue cutters will stop small parts from “launching” when cut.

Chuck, that info is very much appreciated. Bill, your answers are always accurate and appropriate. Thanks to all that have replied.

Once again, thank you all for your efforts to help. Bill, the 1950-1956 Oldsmobile and pontiac rear ends are “hogs head” style (no removable rear cover and center section comes out from the front). I had a 1953 Oldsmobile NHRA stocker and actually pulled a 4.30 gear from a 1950 Pontiac hearse and put it in my car.

Once again, thank you, guys.

Bill, Erik, and Casey, you guys are the greatest. Thank you very much. Ron.

Thank you gentlemen. Much appreciated. I don’t know what the rear end was called but it was used in 49-55 or so 3/4 ton trucks. The wheels they used were 8 lug I believe. These rear were used for the ease of flat towing (just remove the bolts and the axle(s) slid out and you are ready to tow) . Also, the rears came stock with really low gears.

As the title suggests, I am going to build a couple of early model (1955 chevy) D and F GAS and I am looking for the common 3/4 ton early GM truck rears. Resin or kits availability?

I use 12 oz. coke plastic bottles filled with water and double sided tape (designed to hold side trim on 1:1 cars) on top of the cap. I have three of them made up. Works great and the tape lasts a long time.

Steve, every time I see that Ford, I think “that’s not a model, that’s a real car”. Beautiful work.

Thank you for taking the time to respond to my questions. Happy Thanksgiving. Ron.