R. Thorne

Brake fluid.

Thanks for the great information.

Looking for a 1935-41 Ford kit with a small block Chevy engine (with headers and stick shift trans, if possible) . Need donor kit for a 1935 Ford C/A . Have Jimmy Flintstone chopped 1935 body, but need stock type front end and rear end (not independent style rear). Of course, I need 1935 Ford grille, but that’s another story. Thanks in advance for any input.

Don’t forget, if you are spraying with a dual pattern airbrush, you have a built in blow gun for that final clean off right before applying paint.

Perhaps as a holder for pliars and sprue nippers hanging on the side, but I think your idea, Rick, as a miniature trash can with a lid, is one of the best. The problem with them is they are a tad large for my limited space, but thanks for the suggestion.

While a bit pricey, you might consider the Tamiya cleaning and anti static brush.

Good idea. Thanks for posting.

Perfect plastic putty is ok for very small imperfections, but I have never had much luck with it for what you are attempting. Sprue glue, 3M 2 part putty, or mr. Dissolved putty might be a better option to fill such a large gap.

If you don’t want shrinkage, the 801 Bondo (or similar 2 part filler), is the answer. Yes, it has a drawback of harder sanding, but you don’t have to apply it over and over again as you do with almost everything else.

Sprue cutters are a personal feel type of thing. I have a number of good quality ones, but the one on the far right is my current favorite. It is the cheapest looking one with the rather unusual plastic “thingy” for a spring. It was about $28 and has the unusual name of 3.peaks mk02.

Beautiful. The carbs make the motors real, unlike the “blobs” that come with the kits. There can’t be too many accurate representations of these awesome cars. Please send more? Thank you.

I like it. Something you don’t see every day and brings back memories of watching these cars run (might give you a clue how long i’ve Been on this earth).

Great job, Tim, as usual. I feel better, now (lol). Glad you took my comments in the helpful vein that they were intended.

Thank you, sir, for taking the considerable time and effort to post these pictures and comments. Your passion for the hobby is self evident in your replies to others and willingness to help. Sorry, but my ocd shows the black hub is still there (lol). Merry Christmas.

If you want to see a modeler/craftsman (no talking, just building) in action with excellent camera work, check it out. The cars are not my cup of tea, but very enjoyable viewing.

Cheap, thinned, craft paint is the only way to go for panel lines, etc. The Tamiya did a number on the paint job of one of my models. Consequently, I only use it on kit chrome grilles now.

The quadrajet carbs I have gotten from Chief Joseph are astounding.

Thanks for reply. Just trying to help. Some other people can’t take comments or critiques without offense. By the way, YOU got me started again on my project. I am posting progress reports on another forum (that has the owner’s son as a member and he is helping me with additional information on the car). I will post the build on this site soon. Thank you.

You definitely have been working. Looks good. Can’t help it, my curiousity is never ending. Wouldn’t the blower idler pulley (the part that rubs against the belt) be aluminum or shiny? It appears as if you have painted it black.

Outstanding job and excellent pictures.

Tried to send a message and pics, but it said Tim Boyd cannot receive messages.

Gotta love accurate replicas of old gassers. Don’t get discouraged like I did on my A/SR 1932 Ford.

Nothing crazy there. Beautiful.

Outstanding.

Car Craft was my favorite magazine at that time and I remember seeing that cutaway of Prock & Howell (shoot, that issue is probably buried in the garage). Did you have a big block chevy sourced for this build back then? What type of trans? The wheels look great. Thanks for posting and good luck.