R. Thorne

Great pictures. Thank you for trying to help others. The blue tape is one of those “why didn’t I think of that?” .

Get the xuron2175, you won’t regret it. There are others (even the harbor freight one isn’t bad) that are ok, also. They make taking the part off the sprue a joy, usually require only a quick hit with the sanding stick afterwards (depending on how picky you are). Most good quality sprue cutters will stop small parts from “launching” when cut.

Chuck, that info is very much appreciated. Bill, your answers are always accurate and appropriate. Thanks to all that have replied.

Once again, thank you all for your efforts to help. Bill, the 1950-1956 Oldsmobile and pontiac rear ends are “hogs head” style (no removable rear cover and center section comes out from the front). I had a 1953 Oldsmobile NHRA stocker and actually pulled a 4.30 gear from a 1950 Pontiac hearse and put it in my car.

Once again, thank you, guys.

Bill, Erik, and Casey, you guys are the greatest. Thank you very much. Ron.

Thank you gentlemen. Much appreciated. I don’t know what the rear end was called but it was used in 49-55 or so 3/4 ton trucks. The wheels they used were 8 lug I believe. These rear were used for the ease of flat towing (just remove the bolts and the axle(s) slid out and you are ready to tow) . Also, the rears came stock with really low gears.

As the title suggests, I am going to build a couple of early model (1955 chevy) D and F GAS and I am looking for the common 3/4 ton early GM truck rears. Resin or kits availability?

I use 12 oz. coke plastic bottles filled with water and double sided tape (designed to hold side trim on 1:1 cars) on top of the cap. I have three of them made up. Works great and the tape lasts a long time.

Steve, every time I see that Ford, I think “that’s not a model, that’s a real car”. Beautiful work.

Thank you for taking the time to respond to my questions. Happy Thanksgiving. Ron.

Once again, very impressive work and thanks for the pictures. Much appreciated. I have to ask, what did you use for the tach and ignition box wiring and the connectors? Did you make your own decals and is each one separate?

The tips are available separately.

A lot of exacting work there. Very nice job. Pic of interior? The wheels are unfamiliar to me. The trans appears to be a th2004r and not the th200 that most use. The wheelie bar is scratch built?

413.

GT classes were created years ago to allow late model 4 and 6 cylinder front wheel drive cars to be converted to rear wheel drive v-8 cars. GT/AA would have a big block chevy as the most popular combination, but any corporate early model engine could be used. Classification to be determined by NHRA rated horsepower and weight of car. By the way, no tinted windows are allowed in super stock.

Swapped hoods, too.

Check out twopaws build of Lambeck’s car back in 2013.

I believe the driver of that car was Paul Reinford. Never saw it run but saw it in the drag racing magazines at the time. For some reason, I remember it being a gold color. Anyway, where did the 3/4 ton GM rear end come from that you used?

I just stick my brushes in water as soon as I am done painting, then take to the sink and rinse out and quickly dry them out with a paper towel. This is model master acrylics. Other brands and types of paint are completely different, of course.

I also like it. Now sprinkle on some brake lining dust lol.

As others have said, the 55 is the cheapest way to go. You shouldn’t need anything additional (other than paint, of course) . Scalehobbyist and hobbylinc both show it on back order but spotlighthobbies show it in stock. Price is $23-27 plus shipping. I had just checked on this kit yesterday for a possible f/g gasser build.

Awesome. Thank you.

Great idea.

Another possibility is the plastruct 90102 butyrate coated wire which I am going to try on my next one. If not, the candle is your best friend.