R. Thorne

I feel better now (lol).

I like it a lot. Just for your information, the stock exhaust would have started at the collector end (held on with 1 bolt and swung out of the way). It would have went to the rear axle only and consisted of fiberglass style mufflers for weight reduction.

Very nice. Makes me remember Buddy Ingersol’s 1956 chevy from years ago (also from Illinois, by the way). Might we look under the hood and the chassis?

Very nice. Were you at least tempted to convert it to a sedan with some scratch built door posts?

Great, common sense tutorial and much appreciated. Thank you.

I use double sided tape on the base of my Tamiya cement. This allows me to unscrew the cap with one hand and yet move it around if I need to.

Any progress and anyway I can be of assistance?

Geez! The engine is great. How did you make the velocity stacks?

Clear thinking. I will try it. Thanks, Ron.

LOTS of tedious work there and well executed. Where is the carb from? Looks like a wcfb, so I assume this is a replica of a 265 chevy? Great job.

Your foiling and engine detail work are precise. What color is the body and why does it look copperish in some shots and bright red in others? Don’t guess you did headers on this car? Thanks, Ron.

If you have to glue painted parts together you can scrape the paint off and use cement, but I got tired of cleaning off the paint and now use the small tubes of super glue on painted surfaces.

Very realistic. What did you use for plug wires and “silicone” boots? Did you make the super coil? Hard to tell in the pic, but, did you flatten the aluminum rod (on the shock)? Thanks, Ron.

My sympathies. My curiousity, however, has to ask, how? Dropped? Nonrepairable? Although a neophyte with resin bodies (only have 3) what problems have you experienced?

Find some 7 inch “cheater” (grooved) slicks.

I like it a lot. Are you going to put a strip of styrene under the drip rails to duplicate the top of the door and rear window top strip on the sedans?

Very nice clear, concise tutorial. Thank you.

Thank you mr. Geiger for taking the time and effort to help others. Great idea.

Thanks for the tip, I will try the micro fiber cloth (will probably work better than my current method of using whatever clothes I am wearing).

The 9215 testors kit is very convenient for painting small items (engines, chassis, etc.). I use it with the modelmasters acryl paint ( no thinning, mixing, etc) and cleans up with water. For painting bodies, Tamiya spray cans (ts series) are the best unless you have an airbrush.

Believe it or not, the main reason for carrying the hp and cubic inch on the cars was for the spectators. Most spectators and people in the pits looking at the cars appreciated “stock” cars and were curious about the type(s) of engines they had. Until I lettered my car, the first question(s) was always the size of engine and hp.

Thanks for sharing.

I got the one without lighting and added my own. Use mostly Tamiya spray cans and have no problems. Quality piece of merchandise. You won’t regret it.

I was under the impression that everything at mcw was “out of stock” and they were all “built” after you ordered the model. Right or wrong?

Up until a few months ago I used model cement ( Tamiya extra thin mostly) . Removing the paint had become tiresome, however, even with a number of “specialized” tools. I now use ca and it is much easier and faster to not have to remove the paint and it appears to hold securely. I also use Bondene (“glass” held in place with pressure from my finger and bondene applied with a micro brush around the edges) to install windshields (thanks Donn Yost). I applaud you for keeping an open mind.