R. Thorne

Started this car last June, then it went on the back burner, to be replaced by a slew of Stock Eliminator cars and an A/SR replica car. Well I have bogged down on the roadster, and decided to try and finish the Plymouth. This car is being built as a possible competitor to the 1937 Chevy of Moody & Jones that I built a couple of years ago. Anyway, the body was first sprayed with a gold base that turned out crappy, then given a alcohol bath to remove that, then hit with mr. Surfacer primer. After that, then Tamiya silver leaf base and clear red. All with spray cans as an experiment. Oh yeah, scratch built the hood scoop.

Excellent wip pictures and narration. Looking forward to more posts and progress reports. Sorry, but my ocd kicked in. That’s a razor saw, not jewelers saw. I assume you lay the putty on heavy to not worry about shrinkage, but looks like a lot of sanding. Very glad you are recuperating nicely.

Nice job with one of my favorite kits.

Nice, clean, build. Thanks for letting us see this sharp car.

What? No engine or chassis shots? Just kidding. Thanks for posting. Nice, clean, no nonsense, build.

Stockers Rule. Brings back memories. Thanks for posting.

Thanks for that clear picture of the differences. May have to get the micromark version.

The vise you use Rick looks ergonomically right as does my Dspiae hand drill, but the tediousness of finger turning often leads to too much pressure being applied with corresponding broken bits and (at least in my case) a weak wrist syndrome (i’m no spring chicken). The Archimedean screw type allowed me to drill 8 holes in rapid succession with no ill effects. For larger holes I use a low speed motorized drill. Try one. You might like it.

Outstanding.

Sounds like you had a good time doing this one. I have a Moebius kit I will build as a nhra stocker. Don’t forget the door handle(s).

Thanks to this post, I decided to order a $7.00 screw type pin vise and try it. I like it, especially for plug wire holes .025”. I used an old Triumph, I think, drill bit u.s. made that I purchased many years ago for drilling out accelerator pump squirter openings on 4gc carburetors (1/1 cars). It worked out so well I am making it my dedicated drill for plug wire openings complete with a rubber cap to protect the bit. The rubber sleeves are used for pencils, but I used them for hobby knife grips.

Outstanding labor of love.

One of my favorite kits. Great fun builds. Nice work.

Thank you, Robert.

The Socratic Paradox: “I know that I know nothing”. Not to be confused with the Dunning-Kruger effect.

Don’t forget to watch his daily Junkyard Crawl if you are a car guy.

That car “drips” with innovation, from the “four link” to the Vulco flex straight hose intake runners to the megaphone exhaust. I once considered using a 41 Plymouth, but decided against it. Good luck with it. That 3D resin is certainly tempting (thanks, Ace).

You are right about the pin vise “rabbit hole”. I have a number of pin vises from Harbor Freight to Dspiae. While it probably won’t help you in drilling plug wire holes, this Mr. Hobby set is one of the handiest I have for larger holes (1mm and up) and the quality of the “built in” drill bits (not replaceable) is extremely good.

Nice work. Thanks for posting.

Gotta love the mid 60’s super stocks, the beginnings of the funny cars. I really like the Lindberg kits. Nice job. Get started on the next one.

Thank you, gentlemen, for the timely information provided. I was surprised at how few model kits came with the (arguably) most popular tire of the 60’s, 70’s, and into the 80’s.

Wet sanding creates much less dust to breathe and scatter on the work bench (especially important with resin parts). Most of the debris ends up in the water bowl you’re using to dip the sandpaper in. The sandpaper doesn’t clog as easily (hence, lasts longer). To me, the surface is smoother, too, and you get a better feel of what you are working on. I don’t see any disadvantage to wet sanding.

Maybe even decals or other type of inserts? Trying to avoid painting. Looking for these type.

One of the best (bloodless) hobby knife storage. Double back tape on the base of packing material. The price is right and can be put almost anywhere. I also like the mini wooden shelves and rolling drawers available from numerous places. Boy, that floor is dusty.

Thanks, Robert. That explains what it looks like.