89AKurt

I got that last August, it is a nice kit. Is there a blemish above the right rear wheel near the roof? I plan to kitbash with a Revell 612 Scaglietti, about the same size wheelbase and everything else. Had to try this circuit board holder, $13.30 is cheaper than a kit.

I've seen it done before, on something like this, or 60s era body on frame RWD it's a detail that would be seen. On a Honda, no way! It was a beautiful day, went on a hike, needed to get some air and a break from this. Fixed the pet peeve, ground down (more like up in this case) the frame so there is clearance from the axle. Been using Tacky glue to temporarily assemble things. The trailing arms are glued to the axle now, lots of superglue and baking soda to fill the wide gap, and added some plate to the top to complete that part. Also added the brake line clips, which is photo-etch fret. Removed the ejector pins on the floor, since it's going to be panel truck, those would be seen. Set the muffler/exhaust in place. Then I had the ARE YOU KIDDING ME moment. For starters, the instructions show those parts on the pan, then the next step they show the pan on the frame, and you have to twist and turn the pipe into place. Really, all you have to do (if you are building Box Stock) is tilt the front of the floor up, stick the pipes through the back of the frame, then down at the front. BUT..... but check out the total lack of clearance of the trailing arms and muffler, seriously? Bad enough I barely have clearance with the lateral link, which I might make the differential part again, longer. I might have to make the exhaust pipes go another route. I think it's hokey how there is a recess on the floor for them, and a dip in the cross member. Having the pipe against the floor will melt the chocolate. ? Maybe side pipes. ?

with a grudge

Thanks for showing this off, did a nice job. I was wondering what kind of kit it is. Nice tires. Would take some work to make an AMG version. Even more to do this:

with explosive tips

for target practice

Thanks guys! I prefer making coil springs, and shocks or combination of, over doing plug wires. Every lotion, shampoo, or whatever bottle that has a pump, scavenge the spring. Some cheap cig lighters are a good source too, but not Bic. Thanks, what I suspected. I favor keeping the hard line up on the frame, then use either braided wire or spiral guitar string for the flexible sections. Thanks for offering to send parts, the master brake cylinder will be cool to add. Another dumb question, does everyone ignore the lack of a parking brake?

Two other PAAC member commission builds.

Built this AMT 1/16 scale 1957 Thunderbird last century, as a commission build for a member of the Prescott Antique Auto Club. They discovered that it was built on the day they got married, so it was very special to them. Back when I produced videos for the local cable access channel, we did a Christmas show, with my wife and friend riding in back sitting on the body, to drive through The Valley Of The Lights in Prescott Valley. He died a few years ago, widow gave me the model, but I didn't want to keep it, so donated to the PAAC to display in the clubhouse. It was a challenge to make right, the headlights and taillights needed to be shaped into the fender, removed the huge mold lines on the bumpers and got re-chromed. Added the retractible radio antenna, pins for the top to stay in place, license plate is a photograph - calculated the distance with lens and print size (otherwise wild educated guess). Otherwise it's Box Stock, painted with Testors gloss white, not polished or cleared. Had to make mounts so the chassis could be glued to the body, the worst kit engineering I had seen. Attached to the display box so it could be hung on the wall.

who is jealous

Yes it is, thank you. I *had to* fix a few things, namely the total lack of intercooler plumbing, which is the achilles heel of the 959 kit, which I also fixed on the regular Tamiya kit. Back to the regularly scheduled program. I saw Ken Block is hooked up with Audi, their Etron rally car is wild.

Thanks for stating the obvious, seems to be an unwritten law that no coilovers are allowed. I'm inspired by your brake lines, am going to work on the frame mounts next. Dumb questions: Is the transmission an automatic? There is only a gas and brake pedal, but there is the shifter. Are the brake drums from a Buick? I searched 'Ford Model A drum brake backing plate line connection' and found 99% of the pictures are on the brake shoe side. Is the brake cylinder always on top? I wanted to be correct on where to end the brake line. Front brake lines come from the frame, but I see half the fabricators run the rear to the axle then to the wheels, the other half run around the frame cross member, then to the wheels. I've also noticed the majority of the frame rear is a different design than the kit, not changing it, but curious why that is. I assume one well known builder comes out with a new design, and others copy it. Now I'm wondering about how to do the brake master cylinder. I scratch-built the coffee cake this morning. Saw on Fakebook, someone showing a cool frame jig, someone asked what it is, a circuit board jig. Then I saw a post on this forum, so that convinced me to try it.

Oh heck no, I started that a few years ago, sat in the box for about a year, before resuming to finish. I'm not sure what you're asking about the Dakar Classics. I've looked up videos from the 959 era, but haven't kept up with the current race. Your progress is looking awesome!

during hyperspace jumps

Thank you! Two steps forward, one step back........ now things are back to normal. ? The front shocks have been bugging me, I wasn't really happy with the diameter of the rings, and could still see the shafts with the mold lines, and the fact I couldn't find any coil-overs on Model A beam axles, just wasn't going to fly. Dug out my steel tubing, and shirt pins. Found the perfect match of the thickest pins (last two in the box) and the thick wall 2MM tubing. The Mauser calipers have been a great tool over the years. Smashed the head with a punch, on the anvil, tools inherited from my dad. The cheap and useless for a drill pin vise was used to shape the ends, first using the Dremel disk, then file and sanding sticks. There is no way I'm going to drill holes, will count on photo-etch nut heads to fake it. Cutting the tiny smaller tubing was a trick, worked slowly so it wouldn't get hot, then used a toothpick holder to finish the cut end. These shocks were much easier to make, why didn't I just do this the first time? ? Railroad bolts are used on the leading arm brackets. Used superglue and baking soda to fillet the mounts on the frame. This is more accurate and realistic. Next will be the trailing arms.

I'm done with mine, do I win a prize? ? Look forward to seeing what you come up with.

Thanks. I see they dropped the front substantially, so understand why there are coil-overs. Also makes sense about the hidden master cylinder, but Revell has the pedal shaft going down.

I will give a shout out to Fireball Modelworks too. Used a set for a project, but did not use his tires (I was evaluating my stash here), which look really good too. He has great customer service, I asked for one for the spare, and he did it.

Received today! R/C servo tape is fairly thick foam, doubled sided sticky adhesive. I'm also thinking of trying foam weather stripping tape, only because I have some.

I looked at the windshield frame in my kit, slight twist to it, but might be salvageable. I would be willing to send to anyone who needs it, trade for wheel trim rings. I also noticed my frame has a slight twist, will try the warm water trick. I like using fingernail 'polish' for metallic paint, for that reason. Some do have huge lowrider flakes, but the pearls are great. I know too late now, just sayin'.

Thank you! I saw the IRS parts in my search, A-arms and such. I thought coil-overs were an option upgrade to regular shocks. Since I have your attention, have a question....... Why do model manufacturers ignore putting the brake master cylinder in the parts? The AMT '50 Chevy pickup is a good example, a better than average kit, but because it's not on the firewall, but under the floor, they think we won't notice. The other kit I'm going to use parts from doesn't have it either. This is the sort of detail that GSL judges would look for, and I've made it for the last Chevy project, so my OCD is spazing out. BTW: Am willing to trade the slightly twisted windshield frame for wheel trim rings, if anyone is interested. Am thinking of starting a new topic: Revell Model A Parts Exchange. Since their Quality Control and Customer Service from Germany stinks, throwing the idea out there.

I just ordered one yesterday! Saw the idea on Fakebook. I like the sponge idea, could they be stuck on with r/c servo tape?

like driving instructors

Okay. It is the packing of the parts, the box is stuffed! All it would take is sitting in a hot cargo container on top of the stack too. I started a week ago on GSL Common Kit: Revell '29 Model A Russell Stover truck, so I'm seeing what others are doing in the hope to learn something.

The problem with doing a WIP in public, y'all get to see I don't know what I'm doing. ? Wishing I hadn't glued the backing plates on the rear axle, because when I put on the trailing arms, I see the plate to axle should be better. Debating whether to cut that apart. The plate should be "welded" on, and a little more plate made for the other side added. Not digging the plated parts, the mold lines are terrible, and really show up. I like what Michael Moskov did to his Revell's reissued '30 Ford Model A, painted almost all the suspension parts black. The front trailing (or are they leading?) arms also have the frame mount, that will be easy (see how I committed myself?) to cut apart, then glue the mount to the frame. There were some big ejection pins that needed to be removed. Also had to bend the steering links and trailing arms, thanks to lousy packing in the box, this kit is vulnerable to getting those chrome trees bent. Since I hated the steering rod so much, cut it off and fabricated a thin wall steel tube, with copper wire that was smashed in pliers. Will add photo-etch nuts after final assembly. I discovered there would not be much clearance between my lateral link and the trailing arms, so I redid both end mounts. The one on the axle, made more sense to drill a hole and slip it over the differential, don't even need to temporary glue. Moved the pivot point up on the frame mount. Spent more time looking at it, than doing anything. Really tempted to just paint everything gloss chocolate brown, which takes forever to cure. I know the front axle is forged, and has the "mold" seam, does anyone remove that on the real thing?