absmiami

Thanks Pierre - but i wont try to reproduce susp travel or steering - but the assembly will have more detail and features than the Ferrari Barchetta …. Hey - wasnt i supposed to be finishing that ??

While I’m spending everyone else’s money … Model Factory Hiro is releasing some pretty good looking sets of 3D printed bolts - and nuts - with longer stems than the Meng sets - they should be more user friendly …

Randy - would you send me two reject brass spindles ?? - i’ll gladly pay you in hamburgers…

Once i had acceptable spindles i pinned up one side and started on the lowere susp arms - these are wider than the uppers …

The front spindles are lovely forgings that should be made out of brass - so ive made mine out of plastic … bits and peices of Evergreen - rod - tube - H shape - drilled for pins top and bottom -

Well done - looking forward to that instr panel - referring to it as a dash seems somehow below its “Bentley” status …

Wow

Treat the forum to a couple of shots of the Ferrari clutch housing - por favor - maybe the drawing and the printed and finished part ….

Got the shape right right on the third try - so now ill fashion pick up posts for the lowers …

The second wasnt much better - the arms were forged - this is not the correct shape - so …

The susp arms are narrower on top and wider on the bottom - my first crack at the uppers was a fail -

Making the front suspension - without scale drawings of the chassis - which is a fool’s errand - the yellow/brown resin assembly is found in the Profil24 Maserati 450 kit - im referring to it to give me a rough idea of what the length and width of the susp arms mite/should be … the detailed drawings of the suspension - these were published when the car was first produced - tell me exactly what the components look like - but this is basically spit-ballin’. …

V - remind me to bring a package to Delray show …

There is an after-market outfit - AK something-or-other - that sells silver cloth fuel braid line - thats an option - the stuff is pretty good …

Do you apply the Valleyo pigments w a brush and do you thin them first ? Mite try them on my Maser …

very nice - did you cut the alu strips fr sheet stock ? - thats hard work - and what is the thickness ? - appears 1/32 or thereabouts - ...

Gracias

Not much left of the chassis plate - but the chassis tubes were glued to it - so it was both a jig for the chassis - and it kept everything straight and strong … yet to make the right hand forward chassis tube …

Not much left of the chassis plate - but the chassis tubes were glued to it - so it was both a jig for the chassis - and it kept everything straight and strong … yet to make the right hand forward chassis tube …

The main forward chassis tubes are glued into the cross brace - they are bent in multiple places - the left hand tube has to be bent inward to clear the exhaust pipes -

As i add parts with Tamiya liquid glue I’m removing sections of the chassis plate - the liqud glue gives me a strong bond - frame will be plenty strong when I’m done …

The forward section of the chassis has a cross-brace that evolved fr the first to the third series A6GCS chassis - this is a drawing of the frame on the Series I - which is what i think was raced at Sebring in 54 - would have been a 53 car - which i think was Series I …

The engine bay chassis tubes are slightly smaller than the main chass tubes- used .100 Evergreen rod - and thin Evergreen sheet to box the forward floor boards …