fiatboy

I have tried using the backside of a new Exacto blade, but with poor results. I have seen the 'hooked-shape' blades, I think they are P.E. Opening the trunk or doors, the engraved lines are already there. Thanks

I used a second hand furnace fan, 150cfm. It cost about $35 with shipping.

Thanks Mr. O., Phil, and Steve. Beautiful dashboards, Mr. Obsessive! You could not have made it any easier for me. Thanks

I know there are some for various Mopar dashboards. Maybe I could use some of those, modified. Thanks

The box of the '62 Bel Air (Don Nicholson's) seems to show the color of the Z-11 valve covers to be Chevy engine red. Is this correct? Thanks

I found some nice Aoshima wheels, but they don't come with tires. What to do? Any suggestions? Thanks

Some of these seat belt kits have P.E. pieces that need to be bent. A friend at the club recommended 'tools' in the beading-dept. at Hobby Lobby. I looked at them and I do not know if they are ideal. What do you think? Can anybody recommend some bending-tools? Thanks

Thanks for all the input. I think I will call Dremel.

I am looking for a cordless. The chuck that is part of the motor, is stripped, won't hold a bit. Thanks for any input.

I'll be watching this build. Have always loved the '68 Cobra Jet factory drag car.

I know the Parts Box in Australia offers a pretty good one, but too expensive. I could buy a whole kit, which is do-able, but which kit? Something in 1/24 scale. Seems like there should be one 'after market' for like 10-12 bucks. Thanks

Hi AFX and dragcarz. Thanks for the replies. AFX, the "Gold Rush" pictured, does not have a K-member. The original '65 Mopar AFX vehicles (Plymouth and Dodge) retained both the K-frame and the torsion-bars, which had to be extended. And dragcarz, I am building a (Gibson) street hemi engine, and I was thinking of using a deep sump Milodon pan. Now, I WILL use it, and paint it yellow! So thanks very much, again!

I suspect I was wrong about the magnesium K-member. I think it must have been stainless. Maybe I saw a '65 AFX with a K-frame painted yellow. Of course Ferrari (and others) use yellow colored magnesium wheels. They were 'coated' with a substance made by Dow, and maybe the Europeans had a similar coating. But we know a lot of racers use just uncoated mag wheels. Boy, you guys put a lot of effort into answering my question, which I 'm afraid was a dumb one! Thanks

Hi. Probably a lot of you folks know about the 12 factory Mopar AFX cars: 6 Dodge, and 6 Plymouth, built in 1965.. I know that the K-members, or K-frames, were moved forward 10". The new K-frames were made from magnesium and I've seen them painted a sort of yellow color. And here is my question: I've seen some deep oil pans on drag cars also painted a similar shade of yellow, I think. Any comments?

When I finish a model, I like to display it in a plastic case. But the conundrum is, shall I display it with the hood closed, or propped open. Is there a substance available that remains tacky so that I can remove the cover of the case, remove the hood temporarily, and then close the hood securely so that I can turn the model/case upside down to view the chassis detail without having the hood fall off? Thanks

I appreciate the timely responses to my question. Thanks

Canopy cement? Clear acrylic? Thank you for your help.

I use a food dehydrator, brand name:" NESCO American Harvest". This one has a therrmostat on it. I have run it at 100 degrees F. Of course, the shelving inside needs to be hollowed out, not difficult.

I was interested in building the Corvette '54 Corvair fastback concept car at one time. Somebody on this forum suggested using the 'custom' fastback tops that came with, I think, the '57 T-Bird, and I think a similar thing came in the Cobra 289 kit (yellow plastic).

Hi. By fine, I meant 4000.

Thanks for all the comments everybody. The body shell that I painted w/ enamel, looks dry enough to sand a little bit. I thought I would try it with a real fine 'sandpaper'. Well, I'll let you know.

Hi. I just painted a Chevy model "Marina Blue" I got special mixed in a removable-top can from NAPA. I don't even know if there is clear enamel. How about clear, gloss acrylic? I'm pretty sure I should not try to 'rub out' enamel. I do have a food-dehydrator and this body has spent a good amount of time in it. Any comments would be great.

Title says it all, I guess.