bobss396

This is accurate. Rustoleum is terrible paint for model use.

Some model mag years ago had a how-to on making one, maybe Scale Auto. The car caused quite a stir at the time. The Smokey Yunick #13 Chevelle was another controversial car.

I have not sold much model stuff on eBay in recent years. They changed the format maybe 15 years ago, I had over 1000 transactions. That went bye bye, I have about 725 now. I buy almost everything there. Model stuff, clothes, tools and so on. Also lots of old car parts.

When I worked for a living, we had out of date coax that would be disposed of. We were encouraged to help ourselves to whatever was on the shelf. I still have small coax cable around.

I got the front crossmember roughed in. Much easier to do in a single piece. I had 2 other designs going that didn't work. I need to clear the decks shortly. I'm hosting Xmas for a very small crowd.

My neighbor gave us some leftover house paint, IIRC it was oil based and grey. I painted the AMT '56 Ford with it. Used a q-tip as a brush. It laid down smoothly, must have had lead in it. I did a 2-tone, left the top color break bare white plastic. Later on I was able to peel the paint completely off, down to bare plastic again. My dad did a lot of furniture work, so we had access to brush cleaners and thinners.

I needed to shoot something quick earlier in the year, it was raining out. I put a cardboard box on the kitchen garbage can, 1 side and the top open. It worked in a pinch. One guy who lived close to me, he did a cardboard box set into the open window where he rented. Just 4 sides and it worked. It stuck out enough so paint wouldn't get on the house. Another guy, also in an apartment had a cardboard box one, put together with just duct tape. That had a fan and an apartment type clothes dryer vent/trap on it. He used it at his kitchen table.

My brother made his from plastic sheet, he garbage picked at work, it has held up over the years. My old one was made from 10" chimney flashing, the good was it has only one seam. It is a little too deep to reach down into. This one I'm thinking 7" or 8" would be good. I run mine at 105 degrees so the sign material should work,

Exactly. Something with a radius that you can follow.

I rarely painted them until I was around age 9. And brush paints ? which were awful. I probably did the entire Trophy ? Series line with no paint.

This is their brand X dehydrator. With temperature ? control. I need to make a surround for it, found a plastic sign at Ace Hardware. This will be pop riveted to one of the trays. Also will pop rivet the seams, backed up with washers.

Found it... mixed in with another parts stash... This kit was partially built. I had to wrestle the rear from the chassis, made new locating pins from 3/64" brass rod.

Just what I need... I bought this modified stocker '65 complete Fairlane body on eBay a while ago. Closed up the rear wheel wells a bit. Donor chassis is from a Monogram 'Cup car. Engine, not too sure, it was bought loose at a show. I virtually did little to the kit chassis, almost right out of the box. This will be put aside until after Xmas.

The crossmember looks good, cage sits well. The silver radiator was the one that was MIA. Now I'm looking for the rear axle assembly... good thing I have to clean up for Xmas..

This is the departed dearest Chloe Cat, aka The Queen. Picture is from 2018 or 2019. She flat out LOVED the Xmas tree. AND red ribbons... which she liked the crinkle sound of. We told guests that were coming over, no bows on presents please. She would eat them.

As a kid, I used a cardboard box with a side cut out... perched on top of the washing machine in the basement....

Let the glue and primer dry for a solid day, then take another look at it. To get a contour right, try gluing a guide block over it (using tacky glue or double stick tape) over the area and working it with a file or sanding stick. Remove the guide later.

I got one of those 1st wife things too... good riddance is all I got to say. The 2nd was a much better improvement for the next 30 years. I made the notch deeper, have the crossmember in place, next is side motor mounts. The engine block is painted (rookie mistake..) so I have to use some care. I "lost" the radiator, it was easy enough to conjure up another one. I found the OG one about 10 minutes later...

Squirted some primer on the chassis, not bad for 1st pass. Next is the crossmember locating and motor mounts, transmission mount too. Need to sit the floor pan onto the chassis and see where I'll route the exhaust. I worked on it very late last night and have to have a clean table by Sunday afternoon.

My wife is no longer with us, but she could drive a hauler, tow truck and take a car on and off the trailer. Rules varied from track to track, take your best shot at it. I took my Nova with the BBC to a different track in 1983. The wheelbase was too short for one division, engine too big for another. I got tossed in with the Super Stocks and started 26th, finished up 12th.

You can likely find a how-to article online. Plastic kits are pretty thick in scale but doable I'm sure.

I built and ran short track stock cars for a few seasons. My NASCAR license covered street stocks, late models and bomber cars. I held the license from 1979 to 1987. My wife had hers from 1982 to 1984.

On the poor fitting intakes, here is what I started doing. I assemble the engine block halves. Once dry I file the manifold mating surface flat. Also the timing case cover surface. I sand/file the bottom of the intake and heads flat. I remove locating features unless they are good. Using double side tape, I start dry fitting the intake. Then the heads. Sometimes I need to add some stock between the intake and block, sometimes between the intake and heads. After painting all the parts, I will install the intake first, then the heads.

Trunk lids were often "pancaked" on customs. This got the profile a lot lower.

I have the 3D printed 250 Chevy from VCG Resins and partially assembled it. Enough for a trial fit. I had to relieve the chassis for header clearance. Added material outside the rail for strength. Got the new crossmember roughed out. A little more sanding and bondo is next. Tires and wheels are done.