Jantrix

Some new work. The roll cage has been started. Like the newer Mustangs it's being incorporated into the upholstery. It's pretty tight to the roof and will be hard to spot later on. The back seat is capable of being installed in the folded down position, so the roll bar cross bar will not look so out of place. It will be a six point cage. Here's the e-brake. Handle was made from a shock absorber. The connecting pneumatic piston from some random suspension part. Mount was scratch built. The reservoir and associated brake lines will be mounted in the arm rest, (stock piece) to keep with the sleeper theme. Now I need to find a NOS tank.

Okay, sticking with my drift car theme. Here's the e-brake. Handle was made from a shock absorber. The connecting pneumatic piston from some random suspension part. Mount was scratch built. The reservoir and associated brake lines will be mounted in the arm rest, (stock piece) to keep with the sleeper theme. The back seat is capable of being installed in the folded down position, so the roll bar, cross bar will not look so out of place. Now I need to find a NOS tank.

Some work on the Pacer. Roll bars. I finally am happy with a design. Rather than make it just a standard roll bar, I decided to incorporate it into the upholstery like the modern Mustangs do. It will become a six point cage. It's pretty tight to the roof and I think once the rear glass is tinted it will be pretty tough to notice. I'm still working on what to do with that back seat because there WILL be a cross bar, that will be cutting right over the knees of anyone sitting back there. Not very functional. Maybe make the back seat folded forward?

I've stopped watching those knuckleheads.

To go along with Foxer, odds are there is a Plastruct or Evergreen styrene tube that will fit over the spindle. Drill out the wheel boss to make the tube fit inside. That way there's no worrying about finding the center and re-drilling.

What are you talking about?

Try using a base white or silver and then brushing a thinned red wash over it. That might get close.

I'm pretty sure JB Weld is alien stuff that defies the periodic table. It is a very tough material when it sets.

They are intricate but the spokes look really, really rough in the painted part photo.

I would be more inclined to build up the spindle with coats of super glue until it fits the whole.

Looking good. Looking forward to more.

Excellent! I love the fact that it's not chopped. Well done.

Here's some pics I took on Saturday in Ocala, FL. Just a few standouts and the link to the 146 pics at the bottom. The top one belongs to Don Garlits who drove it around quite a bit with a very pretty lady with him. Enjoy. http://s53.photobucket.com/user/Jantrix/library/Billetproof%202015?sort=3&page=1

In my experience using those products years ago, my biggest issue was clogs. Sometimes I'd have to throw away half a can because of clogs that were south of the nozzle.

I don't see why not, but even if you convert the outside to a base model Tempest or something, it's still not much of a sleeper.

I'll be there. Looking forward to it.

On the easy-mode side of things. I'm quite pleased with Krylon Brilliant Silver as a good brushed aluminum color. It's metallic, very flat and covers well with very little paint.

MPC 66 Charger with the hilborn injection and the clear hood. Revell Pinto wagon street machine. AMT Pacer wagon. MPC Datsun pick ups Zztop Eliminator

Hmm. I agree. It's very tough to disguise the depth difference of the front to rear wheels. Maybe make the front ones as thin as possible and thicken the rear?

x2.!

It does tend to seem that way. I met a good model car club here in Tampa/St. Pete, and we meet at one of the guys houses. When I met his wife, it turns out we'd gone to school together in Bay Shore.

Aw geez. I've built three y-blocks over the years and never noticed this.

Perfect. They help sell the look.

Well that is really quite phenomenal. The finish is just awesome.

Man, you make this level of styrene surgery looks soooo easy.