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Well I needed a break from another project, so I decided to get back on this one. I managed to get the interior finished this morning. I made my own door handles, window cranks and arm rests. The rear armrests I had to shorten the pads and make new mounts from .033” wire. I also made a turn signal lever, shift lever and shift indicator. The T/C shifter is a straight pin that already had the right size and shape head for the knob.?

Looking good Ken! That color looks great on it.?

Challenged is how I felt while attempting to build some kits by Revellogram.

Intellect sadly, is becoming less and less of a prerequisite for many occupations.

Them thar hills is where you can find gold.

Nice work and a great tutorial. What do you use for chrome paint on the pulleys?

Yes, these photo etch saw blades are fantastic. A real light touch is required to avoid bending them, but they are very sharp and you lose almost no material. They come in at least two thicknesses.

Crisis management it seems is becoming a frequent endeavour.

I have two dial calipers which I prefer over digital, one in the garage and one on the model bench. The cheapest new digital one I could find was $40. so when I saw this brand new/used one for $15. I grabbed it.? There are “composite” ones cheaper, but they would not make a good scriber. The big advantage of digital is that it can work in metric or imperial.

Thank You Chris! I knew someone on here would recognize it.?

I use my dial calipers a lot, but find the equal thickness jaws make it difficult for any scribing or marking chores. So I bought a set of digital calipers off Kijiji for $15 just so I could modify them like so. I super glued a small strip of metal to the fixed jaw. Being digital, they can be zeroed and will still read accurate through the entire scale. They now work as a scriber and it’s a lot easier to measure from the edge of a sheet or rod. Edit: Be aware, only the outside jaws read accurate after this modification.

What vehicle would this light be from? Thanks, Greg.

Magnetos are an engine component with which I have no experience.

The 30AWG wire shown above measures 0.020” which is 0.508mm so it likely would not fit the detail master looms. It looks OK for 1/25 scale in my opinion.

Here is my rebuild of a Monogram ZZ Top edition. I basically just changed the engine and re-painted it.

Very nice of your granddaughter to draw that picture for you. I can’t help but think you look a bit like Cathy though.??

I don’t know about the custom photo etching or what all would be involved in printing them…but I just cut mine from .010” styrene. Then I positioned the letters and glued them to another piece of .010” styrene. Then I made a mold an cast four of them. I sanded most of the second.010” layer away before glueing them to the model. Just another option.? Edit: The scripts were stamped into the panels and painted body color also…unless there are variations I am unaware of.

That is looking great Joe. I have this kit and if I ever get around to building it, will be referencing your thread here. Thanks for all the detailed progress pics and notes.?

Is it this kit?

Hoochie Coochie Man was written by Willie Dixon and recorded by Muddy Waters.

? Edit: Sorry, this belongs in the what irked you thread.?

Sweet looking Jag!? And great photography!

That looks great! Love the engine.?

Thank You! Thanks. For I think I can squeeze a smaller one in. The kit battery is oversized (14 scale inches). Thanks! Thank You Carl. Thanks for the suggestion. I’m not well versed in what all is required to be considered Pro-Touring. I will research it a bit, but this will likely just be a slightly modified T-Bird. I know that proper details or lack of them irks some Purists, but I am just doing this for fun and will never win any contests.?

I don’t have one or need one, but I want one.? Here’s a neat short video. https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/featured-product/cameo