NOBLNG

Clothes are best worn in multiple layers when the mercury drops to 30 below zero.

Singers are nice sewing machines I was told by a seamstress.

Is your air compressor able to keep up with the demand?

For the most part, I like hacking models apart and gluing them back together more than the finishing.

I have no experience with this particular airbrush, but make sure your paint is thinned sufficiently. You could possibly add a retarder to your acrylic paints.

Thanks David. I made a spatula tip for the iron from an 8-32 brass machine screw. I also chopped up some of the kit sprue into little pellets for filler. I can pick up the pellets with the hot iron and after a second or two it liquifies and can be sculpted into the seam. I’ve had a bit of “cold lap” in spots where I’ve feathered the edges and when cool I just hit it with a bit of Tamiya thin to cement it solidly. All in all it seems like a useful technique.

“Sock it to me” reminds me of the ‘60s tv show Laugh-in.

Beautiful work all around Marcos, and that roof is spot on!👍

It’s looking awesome Steve! That is a really nice engine to use.👍 I’m sure Roger would be proud of your tribute.

It’s coming along nicely. I really like that engine!

Sister Mary Elephant fills in for sister Rosetta Stone while she takes a small “vacation”.

Yes, looks like a nice smooth transition!👍😎

AMT made the windshield to door transition far too squared off in my opinion. It should have a more sweeping curve. I started by making a cut underneath the upper door trim and along the base of the windshield trim., then removed approximately 1/16” of the door trim. I pushed the two sections together to close the gap and glued them together with CA. I watched a video where Doug Whyte sectioned a car by melting the pieces back together with a soldering iron….so I figured I would try it. I wound up with a dip in the area and had to cut it apart and raise the trim with wedges to get a smoother transition. I think I like this plastic welding…no waiting for glue or filler to dry.😎 I got rid of the A pillar and rounded the roof corner a bit. A bit of filing and sanding and it’s looking a little better. I made a pattern from card stock and some different diameter masking tape circles to design a new A pillar. The card stock conforms nicely to the curves with no wrinkles, so I should be able to make a new windshield from clear sheet. But…before I fab the new A pillar, I want to lower the roof ever so slightly. I still have to duplicate my efforts on the drivers side yet too.

More expensive than a coat hanger, but Tig welding filler rods are a good source of stiff wire also. They come in 36” lengths and either 1/16 or 3/32” diameter would be suitable.

What if you sprayed it with a bit of Tamiya thin cement or MEK to fog it? Do what you normally try to avoid doing?

Fabulous!!!!

No….he said he could work with anything, and someone looking for any style TH-400 might come across this thread in the future. All good info.😎

Nice clean looking T!👍

Great work John! That is really looking authentic.😎

Once you’ve smelled the aroma of freshly cut styrene it’s almost impossible to stop the kit hacking.

Nice start on this one. I haven’t chopped a Merc yet but it is definitely on my to do list. I think less is more on most chops. I don’t care much for the really “hammered” look. I’m interested to see how yours turns out.😎

Yeah, what happened?🤓

Longitudinally deficient.🤷‍♂️🙂

My bad! You are correct Keith. One kit I haven’t opened and it’s been a couple of years since I opened the other one.

Thanks to everyone for the positive feedback! I will attempt to maintain some sort of momentum on this project, but I am seeing squirrels everywhere lately.🥴